Glasshopper

I have a Taranis 9xplus on OpenTX2.1,9 but I cannot use the new model wizard on the TX to create a new model. I can do it OK using Companion but .when I click on an empty space on my TX for a new model it asks if I want to create a new model to which the only response is to add "new model" with all the correct attributes I need for fixed wing, none of the alternatives for elevons rotary etc. The stuff for the wizard is on my sd card and when I go into that and click "execute", the wizard runs but I cannot get it to run from the transmitter menu. Online the instructions are to install the wizard in an sd card file starting with "\" to which the response is "file names cannot include such characters".; I know I can use a "template" or the restore function to call up a similar model on the TX but I would like to know whether it is the system or me that is at fault.

Despair!!!! Don't ask me how but after a lot of fiddling in the output field my TX is behaving normally again. What I still do not understand is why a programming error in one model should affect the performance of the TX and all the other models. What does the column of dashes next to the subtrim column of the output (servo) screen represent? The dashes turn into arrows as the value of the subtrim changes . Do they merely supplement the minus and positive values in the subtrim column?

Despair!!!! I have been playing around with the outputs screen on my Taranis Plus TX just to see what subtrims will do and I seem to have disabled the trim switches on my righthand stick. I have moved both the aileron and elevator trims to max and they will not return to centre or move back in that direction. The aileron and elevator stick seems to be working OK as normal. The problem affects all my models even though I was making the adjustments on a new model set up just for the purpose and I can no longer get the "three finger salute" required on my Taranis TX to connect to my computer. I have been using the new hall effect gimbals for some months. Can anyone advise me how to return to normal please?

    Edited By Glasshopper on 02/07/2017 14:09:17

I had a similar experience with mine but fortunately after several flights. The failure was not the joiner but the main spar and I have attributed this to my poor selection of the correct grade of balsa or spruce for critical items like the main spars. My repair included the insertion of cf along the mainspars. No problems now except for the trees.

When I recover my lost models the damage usully means that the heavy lipo has been ejected on impact and the RX no longer transmits. However the logging facility on my Taranis shows the point of the last transmission. I have wondered about returning to the old spec for R/C and using a supplementary lightweight battery for the RX which is less likely to be ejected on impact.

I think I have fixed it.I hope!

Different problem......I seem to have corrupted my opentx files in some way. Changes made in my Taranis plus TX are no longer appearing in "Companion" when I want to load up my models The changes are filed OK in the Taranis EEPROM.bin file when I open "Companion"from that file, but "Companion" does not find them when I click on the button to read models and settings from the TX. Can any one help solve my problem please?

**LINK**

I am very old and has it never occurred to me to use safety razor blades for shaving. I have difficulty buying them now just to use for cutting the trim and balsa on my models. The edges are much sharper than the scalpel type. Of course I have to break them in two and use each half separately.I always thought that bearded modellers made too many models and could not spare the blades for their faces.

I think the FUGLY was designed specifically to accomodate the redundant electronics of the wot 4 foam e.

There is a video for Tracedown. I does not seem much different from standard carbon paper

The London Graphics Centre offer draughtsmen's tracing paper but they also have this which seems better? http://www.londongraphics.co.uk/products/Graphic-Supplies/Board-Card-Paper-Film/Tracing-Paper-Detail-Paper/Tracedown-Paper/BC21011405_Tracedown-Blue-A4-(Pack-of-5-sheets)

Is this what you want? http://www.draftingsteals.com/catalog-paper--vellum--and-more-tracing-paper.html

I have a glass coffee table. When I want a handed copy of a wing i lay the plan on the table the way I want it, paper on top, and my garage inspection light underneath the table. Trace over the illuminated outline. It still does not get the plan on the wood though.

I will use the other half of the pipe for a different grade of sandpaper.

I found a about ten inches of discarded waste pipe left over from my kitchen. It had been run over by my car and was rubbish. Read these notes and started to think about profiling the l/e on my new wings, so I split the plastic waste pipe in two halves lengthwise, the car had made it easy, glued a length of sandpaper to one of the concave faces, used the other half of the pipe to press the paper home on the glue with clamps, et voila! As the remainers would say. Edited By Glasshopper on 16/09/2016 17:21:38

Barry.....probably depends on how you voted!

What is going to happen to the stock of FRSKY Taranis gear just imported into the U.K.with the latest EU LBT software......More upgrades/downgrades?

Have you seen the Canadian version? http://www.nms.ac.uk/national-museum-of-flight/discover-the-museum/our-aircraft/military-aircraft/bristol-bolingbroke/

Thanks for your reply Dick. I have always imagined that the least effective area of a prop is around the centre. I suppose a simple test would be to fix the same set of blades to several different hubs and measure the rpm & watts....if I had the inclination!.RayMac

  "There is no standard unless you use the prop maker's yoke/hub. For instance, I have Graupner 10 x 6 blades on a MPX Easyglider spinner/yoke assy. Due to the hinge pin centres the blades extend to 11" - that means the prop is now an 11 x 6.6. Similarly on an OD E-glider I use an ali spinner/yoke which extends 9x5 blades to give a 9.75 x 5.4 prop" PatMcc's posting above on 5th Jan made me wonder about the effect the size of the hub has on the efficiency of the prop.Obviously a longer hub will increase the diameter of the prop but does it change the dynamics?

Is this what you are after? http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=46719

Thanks for all you comments. I found them very helpful, I was expecting one of the tech gurus to come on and tell me I would need a four figure D/F.

Is it practicable to use the signal from a Taranis RX as the basis for finding a lost aircraft?