Ron Gray

Buy some Gorilla Glue brown, it will come in handy!

Holes + cocktail sticks is the way to go. Have you got any Gorilla Glue brown, the expanding type? If so use that instead of epoxy as it will foam into the voids in the foam. Smear some over the cocktail sticks before you insert them and apply it to the split line then stick masking tape over the joint as this will help prevent too much expanding out from the joint. Personally I wouldn’t use any form of cyano in repairing this type of break.

I had a similar experience the other day. I had flown my Giant Revolver and fuelled it up fir a second flight but when I checked the controls both elevators appeared to be ‘lazy’ in other words there was a delay between a Tx stick input and the servos operating, not all the time but more so if I moved the stick quickly back and forth. Note that there is 1 servo for each elevator half and both exhibited the same issue. I changed the Rx batteries but still had the same problem I also swapped Tx to no avail. Back home I swapped the Rx for a different one, same problem then removed the servos and used a servo tester which showed both servos were toast! Quite why they both went at the same time is a mystery as no others were affected! BTW they were New Power servos which had been in the model since I first assembled it 8 years ago.

Third part of the wing build

The 4S 3700mAh are 40C and the 6S 5000mAh are 70C.

So far I've seen no difference in performance in my batteries which range from humble 3s 1300mAh to 6s 5000mAh ones, although I haven't really done a lot of charging of the big packs as they tend to be used in my EDFs which haven't been flown a lot recently. The ones that have been used a lot are my 4s 3700mAh ones and they are just the same as before I started the new charging regime. So I will continue doing what I'm doing and charging at the field using the V2L from my EV and maybe even push it a bit and go to 4C!

I've now located that bit of balsa and will fit it to the fuse in due course.

Final voltage

Sorry, remind me, what are they?

I must admit that I paid closer to £300 for mine and from memory it came from Germany.

Hmm, is it? must have missed that so will look again - thanks.

Looking good David. With mine I had thought about rear mounted servos but had decided against it, you have confirmed my views, so thanks for that! I would stick with metal bolts for the U/C rather than nylon, unless you are coming in very, very fast the risk of ripping the U/C out should be very low to a man of your calibre. I've added flaps to my build to assist with the landing speed, goodness knows how well they will perform. PS I like the wing to fuse fillet mod you've done, I may have to copy that! PPS Servo lead poking out. 😉

The Volantex type models are excellent, I have the Corsair and it's great fun. But they do rely on the gyro to help keep them in the air, even more so when it is windy and landing them in those conditions can be somewhat challenging. They are not, imo, a suitable first time fixed wing model for those windy conditions and if it is going to be flown in a public space then the 3rd party risks are quite high.

A lot depends upon how ‘dry’ the POR is before bringing the pieces together. If it’s touch dry then it’s an instant bond with no wiggle room, if it’s slightly tacky then it’s still a bond but you can move the parts a little bit. The real test, for me, was when I used to use Velcro to position batteries in my models. I stuck it on using POR but found that the strongest bond which kept the battery Velcro in place was formed when I let the POR completely dry before bringing together. I stopped using velcro a couple of years ago and use ‘anti-slip’ material instead.

I use the ones in my car 😉 But ever since the initial post on increasing the charge rate I now only charge to 4.17v and charge at 3C.

I don’t know, what with you and Mark and your tweaking and trimming sessions 😂

Thanks John.

I missed out on flying today due to household commitments! Weather looked to be fine for the morning but rain edged in over lunchtime then disappeared by about 4. that completes the weather forecast for the Norfolk/Suffolk border.

IMO the main advantage of contact adhesive is that there is no, or very little, need for pinning / clamping. A few years ago I applied POR to 2 surfaces slid them together to make sure that I had an even coating them pulled them apart and promptly forgot about them for about a day! I contacted (no pun intended) someone at UHU to ask them if this would be a problem and the reply was no, but make sure that they are perfectly aligned as you won't get any wriggle room. They were right!

Quite, it really needs its own Topic - A Big Question.

If you don’t want the contact adhesion that POR gives you and you are worried about Gorilla Glue brown expanding then use Gorilla Glue clear (as Tom suggested above). It will give you the strongest joint.

Yes, that’s the one. As Leccy says above, it will expand/foam when setting so plonk a weight on the ply to keep it in place.

I use it regularly for balsa and ply, all thicknesses.

Out of the two I would use POR. However my first choice would be Gorilla Glue Brown.

I’ve had my KS230 for a few years now and it is a really good machine however I wanted something a bit bigger do bought the FET about 2 years ago. That is the only one I use now!