Peter Miller

These flew perfectly with no side or down thrust and very little trim adjustment.

Thinking about the above. So you add side thrust and down thrust to make the model fly straight and level. Now suppose that you find that it doesn't fly straight and level when you take it to the field. What do you do? Take the engine out and add more side or down thrust!? If you have used side or down thrust to get the model to fly straight the logical thing to do would be to alter the side and down thrust to correct any deviation from straight and level. Or do you apply some trim. And you apply trim to correct the deviation to correct any deviation due to incorrect side and down thrust why not apply it in the first place?

All the Peggy Sues fly straight and level well. You might get a swing on take off but you can get that even if you have side thrust. That is what the rudder is for. If it doesn't fly straight and level in normal flight you then use the trim switches to trim out any miss alignment due to construction errors

I never use side or down thrust. The original smaller Peggy Sue that has been built in the club doesn't have any.The big one that was built in the club doesn't have any. The one flown in a howling gale on the Peggy Sue thread thread and which was described as "Out Wot Fouring a Wot Four and Out Acro Wotting an Acro Wot. Didn't have any....But of course with your vast experience you may know better!!!!!

That is impressive!!!

I love that picture.Glad you are so happy with the Ohmen.

I can remember back in 1954 going to Ripmax, a little shop in Camden Town. Bought my ECC Telecommander radio there. Never did get a flight out of that. Also bought a Mills .75 and later a Mills 1.3 and even later an Allbon Jevelin. I had a small inheritance from my Grandfather

That is brilliant!!!!

By the way. No need for that extra spar in front of the existing one because the sheeted leading edge is more than adequate. I would suggest some extra reinforcement round the undercarriage mounting former. Mine eventually came loose which involved a lot of fiddly work with epoxy etc.

Sorry,I searched the old computer that I was using in 2001 and do not have the Rhapsody wing file on the Compufoil program.

Apart from highly stressed ribs where they are attached to the fuselage or struts (no struts on Rhapsody, ribs are normally classified as secondary structure on full size aircraft and so can be classified as the same on a model. You might increase the thickness a little but should not need any. Spar sizes can be increased or you could use the same size but harder wood. Later today I will see if I still have the Compufoil file for Rhapsody. If I have I can replot the ribs and add a few easily.

Rhapsody was the first of my "Angels" series. They all flew like dreams. My Destiny has now been electrified and does consecutive vertical rolls

Rhapsody Is not the same as Peggy Sue, It is a dream to fly. and different and in my eyes is far more beautiful but still highly aerobatic and possibly a little more graceful. Mine is still in my workshop and the wing has a big label on it which reads THIS WING TO BE GLUED, SCREWED OR NAILED TO MY COFFIN LID

I am now getting very ocasional notifications and checking for them when I log in. I seem to be getting emails about PMs It is a pity that someone can't sort it out

Actually it is electric but the kit is designed for and has the parts for i.c mounting.

Test flew my Value Planes Cloud Walker today. Great vintage style model.

Basically dihedral only works when and aircraft is side slipping. It creates a corrective force. In fact sweep bac also has the same effect but you need more sweep back. if you saw the article on my Insanity it was a classic example of how sweep back and dihedral only affect the stability when the aircraft is side slipping. No one would believe that model would fly but it flew exactly like my normal aerobatic designs.

Most gliders do, some don't. But then most gliders are mid wing, the T-31 has a parasol wing which is very high up.This gives a degree of pendulum stability. I always recommend reading Kermode's "Flight Without Formulae" A very simple book on flight written in the 30s and so good that it is still being published today. This gives one an understanding of various aspects of how and aircraft flies.

I am glad that you are so happy with Hound Dog. Yes it is much more docile that The Ohmen which is a pretty lively beast (I love it for that reason!) I club member who built Hound Dog loves it too, he also likes more docile models. You will also love Ballerina, It was a mass build subject and I don't think anyone didn't love that model. You might also consider Oodalally as a future project. I recently built another one for electric power.

It is a long time since I built this model but I just checked the plans. no mention of dihedral so I looked at some photos of the full size ones. Some have no dihedral at all. I suggest googling pictures and making your own mind up.

That look extremely neat

Just finished and test flown my Value Planes Cloud Walker Fabulous!!! 67" span two long flights and still had power in the 2200 Lipo.

Not really. I suggest just cutting some stiff note paper to make a template I just cut it be eye and adjust if needed

A balsa Stripper is a much quicker method, 36" long strips of accurate 1/4" wide strips. The Master one is great, The same was also made under the Kavan name.

That is really impressive!!Those rivets look perfect and I say that as an ex airframe fitter who has put in more rivets than I care to remember