Martin Harris - Moderator

Other than coincidence, do you have any indication that it was a firmware problem? That sort of problem seems more likely to be a receiver problem. Have you been able to reproduce the problem with a different receiver?

As far as I’m aware.

Rich - I know Andy can turn his hand to many things, but updating a referenced document issued by the DoE isn’t likely to be one of his talents. By the way, the reference to large models shows just how far out of date it is - the 5kg limit was superseded by 7kg probably more than a quarter of a century ago!

My unqualified understanding is that the noise code is for guidance and compliance doesn’t guarantee a noise complaint being rejected. However, showing compliance is a strong counter to a complaint. In the event of a formal investigation, measurements of both ambient noise and any raising of noise levels by the activity in question are taken from a number of different locations. I’m not sure of the threshold but 3dB (doubling) comes to mind. In other words, if your site is close to a busy motorway, industrial site, wind farm etc. the amount of noise you can generate will be more than if it’s in an idyllic peaceful (if the cows and chickens will keep quiet) country location.

I don't see any point in using small servos in a model the size of a Magnatilla. I would use standard sized basic servos equivalent to the old Futaba S148. Regardless of material, servos of this size are pretty tough in the gears department - usually only a full blooded crash will strip them where smaller servos will often suffer damage from a simple knock in transit/handling.

Oddly, I've always had the impression that petrol conversions are noisier than glow!

Unless anyone knows differently, I've found them to be wildly inaccurate - hardly surprising with no calibration of the phone's microphone or circuitry.

Welcome to the forum Maz. If you have the plan, this usually shows the correct position of the engine/centreline of the crankshaft with any thrust offset recommendations. What model are you trying to mount the engine in? I would agree with Jon - always fix the mount to the model first and measure/test fit the engine before marking and drilling the mount.

Standard servos are more than adequate for such a model. If anything, metal gears may be more prone to wear from any vibration but with correctly mounted servos, the rubber mounts are designed to reduce these effects. Correctly mounted? From experience with second hand models and observation, I would estimate that a large majority of modellers put the metal top hat sleeves upside down. The flange is designed to spread the load on the bearers and correctly pre-compress the rubber grommets - not go under the screw heads as a washer.

Hello and welcome James. We do try hard to keep this a happy place…there’s always the odd glitch but the vast majority are pleasant to each other. Could we ask you to make some reference to your commercial activity in your forum name e.g. Doc Hammond - Aeroic Composites, perhaps?

Let’s get back to talking about IDS and splines - or has this thread run its course?

Let’s not labour this point. I don’t see any racial discrimination here - just an observation on quality of some of the cheaper products from China - which I’m sure all of us have experienced.

This was my solution to a not particularly efficient “silencer” inherited with a part built Black Horse FW190 which came with a 26cc petrol engine. There was a small reduction in outlet area but the effect on noise was dramatic - and sound quality much enhanced, disguising any 2 stroke howl to give a very pleasant tone. Internal details

If it’s water mist then I believe it’s a valid method which limits access to oxygen and removes heat - two of the three vital components for combustion.

https://www.modelflying.co.uk/code-conduct/ A thread has just come to my notice which was started with a quote from a private message sent by me in my capacity as a moderator. This is clearly in breach of the code of conduct, and I would encourage all members to take a few minutes to read it (link above). The thread has been hidden until the moderators have a chance to study its contents.

There's an envelope icon which should display a "flag" when you have a message - just click on that. You should also get an email with a link to the PM. No donations necessary - this is a mutual help and discussion forum...but you're free to give something to a worthy charity if you feel that way.

PM sent.

Hi Halsey - duplicate post removed. Please be aware that all items for sale require approval from a moderator before they become visible to the forum - this is a measure to reduce scamming attempts from rogue users...certainly nothing personal!

Link from Andy's suggestion for cowling

While I agree that there’s always an element of risk in model flying and unnecessary legislation or condemnation of activities involving informed participants isn’t appropriate, it does remind me of a very similar model being demonstrated at a public show a number of years ago. Having taken my family, I was acutely aware of the potential danger and more than a little concerned (and I still remain to be convinced that the flight line distance adhered to display rules). With that, and a highly skilled but incredibly high risk full size helicopter display, I resolved not to take them again.

It’s a hard “two stick” product, similar to Milliput and forms a mouldable putty so sadly, totally inappropriate for this type of repair, I’m afraid.

If anyone knows of a product that would withstand the heat, pressure and vibration to make a permanent seal in this situation, I’d love to know more about it!

n an earlier post, I mentioned that I might do a redesign of the case to incorporate the charging module/display from the disposable vape. I’ve finished my “production” version which seems to function well on the single vape battery (650 mAh LiPo) and now shows the battery state for about 10 seconds after power on (and about 4 seconds after switching off). An evening’s continuous use reduced the state to 90% so even if it isn’t happy at lower voltages, there’s a decent usage time (not yet established) and it recharges quickly (and can be used during charging) from any USB source. Displays after powering on The internals The vape to look for! Power supply connection details If anyone wants to copy this, the new STL files are attached. Case.stl Base.stl Cell Support.stl Bezel.stl

Cost? This is a free forum comprising many model flying and building enthusiasts who will be happy to share the benefits of their experience. Welcome Clive.

Try to get cold airflow over the ESC as well. Make a small air scoop if necessary - and make sure there’s a larger exit - ensuring a good path over the ESC’s heat sink.