Dad_flyer

I am getting through mending my models. It seems I only had one with nothing that needed attention. I shall not have them all fixed up by the time we are allowed out again. Even without flying I managed to add another fix-up to my list by hitting a wing mirror on a gatepost. The bits did go flying, so maybe it can count here ?. Amazingly the mirror itself was unharmed, but the plastic casing has needed some jigsaw puzzling and three different glues so far. Coming together now.

I have the 4-Max 2321 2050 as a recommended replacement for 049 in Mayfly. 2s and 8x4 prop. The power is just right, but I am currently replacing it. The X-mount is thin carbon sheet, which has cracked (I crashed too much while learning). As a small motor it has screw spacings which are narrow, and replacement X-mounts are hard to find. It also just looks too small in the model and as a replacement for an 049 and heavy 1960s RC I have had to add lead anyway to get the balance. My replacement choice is 2826 1900 which is a little heavier but at least looks a lot more sturdy. Even with the extra weight there will still be ballast. The parts are more standard across my other models as well. I have not tested which prop to give the power I want on 2s.

Work out how often it is sending data. If it is a regular post to a web server, or is uncontrolled demand, you get through gigabytes very quickly. One 1MB picture per hour is the best part of 1GB per month. This is what stopped me before I started the technical details for a project for a non-flying club. Data is cheaper now.

I took a sharp knife to the wing: First cut, but not enough at less than 1/4" Rather more taken off straight, then rounded with a Permagrit. It is hard to see the shape when the colours are all mixed up. I reinforced by covering with with polyester lining material stuck on and filled using polyurethane varnish. With the red resprayed you can get an idea of the shape. It looks a lot less dangerous ?.

The antenna actually receives from the side, so orientation up or down orientation is basically the same, it will receive from front, back, left, right. The across antenna receive from up, down, front, back. This is why two antennas at 90degrees covers all directions. If they received from the direction of the wire you would need three, or even six if up and down are different.

Yes @Geoff S I did it more like the Hangar 9 version. I quite like their colour scheme as well, so I basically followed that but I made some changes that I prefer. All being well it will be ready to be at the flying field as soon as we are let out. Balance looks OK so far, helped by heavy landing gear.

Looking at the different plans then judging by the size of the square leading edge, I need about 3/8" rounding on the 62" version. (The little one would be 1/4" and the giant 1/2"). I can do that without rebuilding the wing. It will need the leading edge repainted, so I got out in the sun today for a couple of pictures before I ruin it.

You have not got the motor running, so if it is interference it cannot be from inside the model. What does it do outside the house? Mains frequency is the same as the servo refresh rate, Twisted wires should also help to reduce pickup instead of a ferrite. I think I heard that some receivers only output 0V/3.3V on the signal line, as that is the voltage of the internal logic in the microprocessors. It should be fine on a servo expecting 0V/5V as it is above a 2.5V threshold, but it is not that far above. Unfortunately one would need an oscilloscope to test that.

Me too @Jonathan M.

Ok, I actually think I can cut the existing leading edge to a much better shape. Will it be good enough, what do we mean by rounded or not sharp? This wing is about 13" chord and 1.5" thick. Is 1/4" round at the front of a pointy shape rounded, or is it still 'sharp'? Or 3/8" to 1/2"? Does it make it even better to be close to a 1.5" semicircle? Is it something that scales with wing thickness, or is it more an absolute?

@Geoff S I might be able to blunt the existing one, the trouble would be fixing something all the way down the 62" l.e. With foamboard building a new one is very quick, but painting it takes a while longer.

Hmm, I don't like the sound of that. Keep it fast then. If Toolstation open before we are let out to fly I shall build another wing. I need more spray paint and masking tape. For the leading edge I prepared it in the same way as for a flat-bottomed wing which does need an edge. It should be quick and easy to make it rounder.

At storage 4s (15V) For 10x6 I had 414W at 9000rpm from wooden MAS and 346W at 9900rpm for a composite JXF. For 11x6 JXF it was 409W at 9200rpm.

Yes, with a wattmeter, not in flight ☹️

Thank you Earlybird. All the 3548s I was looking at were out of stock. I have fitted a 4-Max 4240 890kv, which is rated at relatively low current. Probably on 11x6, but I have not tested on a full battery yet. Everything is at storage charge.

I started this as a quick build in Jan. It was prompted by something on the forum but I now don't remember what. It is a bit of a mash of a couple of designs from the FliteTest forums, and the various versions on Outerzone. Overall size is the 62" Jensen version, but with the squared tail of the Ultra Stick. All in Hobbycraft foamboard, 4s electric, about 3lb 12. I made a symmetrical wing with no dihedral. Because of the way I made it the leading edge is quite sharp. In general a sharp leading edge is not a good idea, but what bad things do I need to watch out for in flight? Similarly I am now doubting my decision to have no dihedral. How are Stiks with flat wings? I need to just fly it, but obviously just now...

I have been lurking here with my fingers crossed for the engines. The model looks superb, and I feared for its fate if the engines could not be resurrected. ?

I think the specific topic on the LiPo discharger (p47 PNP or NPN) got lost in the forum switch over. My post is not about that.. Child_flyer found the oddball planes feature, Child_nonflyer liked the asymmetrical X-AC 6. Well, it happens that I saw the X-AC 5 plan when browsing Outerzone and I had saved it as one for fun. The photo in the magazine looks similar, but I can't find anything about differences between version 5 and 6. Anyway, I made a quick version from foam board to throw around the garden. It does glide quite well, so I might add power (only 5 other projects to finish first) The article did not have any ornithopters, they are properly mad.

+1 for Den's models. He was really, really helpful when I needed spares for an old Cox and I had no clue what I was doing.

I thought the motor was also dead, but it was just the spinner had pushed back and jammed against the nose. I got a new motor anyway, and a new prop. A 480 brushed rather than a 400 as there is lead in the canopy, so the weight might as well be motor. Nominally the same diameter, but actually just slightly fatter, so I had to make a new cowl. I made it longer as well to leave the back of the motor in the same place on the fuselage, and again help the CG. I liked the striped cross grained balsa, so I could not bear to cover it in white. It pulls much less current than the old motor. I hope that is because it is new and that it has still got enough go. It now balances without the battery, so I can lose the lead ?.

One completed?. E-fair had a broken wing: Almost all the bits were there and fitted back together. A few small bits added and it was all straight (ish). The trailing edge has a bit of a wave to it but not too much. Covered and the lettering transferred from the salvaged film. I thought that putting the film over film would either show up darker, or have lots of bubbles, or just go horribly wrong and crease. It actually send on very well.

What power does it give on the prop used on the E-pioneer? Must be upwards of 400W? So something bigger than Peter Millard recent electric models (50"-ish aerobatic). Or something much bigger and vintage and slow, 90" vintage at 9lbs.

The list of new posts is just tooooooooooooooooooo big. Every little thing comes up in the list, with every new post in a thread separately. To make this useable the new posts need to be grouped as the most recent post in the thread - as in the old forum and most other forums. I have to scroll through 100 posts on this thread, and everybody sorting out their albums to find the actual model flying content in the build blogs. I have at least found out that you can make the news all new posts, not just new unread ones. Otherwise 'where did that post go that I just read?'

I was not able to log in on the Forum page using my email. I then tried using my username, which has worked.

A small electric plane will be running at 10A and probably has 20AWG battery wires. So that should be plenty for a 1C charge on your battery.