Eric Robson

Chiming Ron, 20mts for me please I have an 86" span biplane to cover + others.

Thanks Danny and Ron, I did rub the film down with some 600 wet or dry, there was a few fine wrinkles which I managed to eliminate. it looked worse than it was before putting the primer on there was a few little marks on the surface of the wood finger nails etc but they did not show after priming.

Getting the ailerons right took longer than I thought, in between gardening and getting planes ready for flying. They pivot on a rod through brass bushes that anchors in the tip , the first side had to be taken apart as I built it from the underside and when I turned it over it was slightly below the shroud. It would have been easier if it had been straight and not curved at the end. I covered the ailerons with laminating film and primed them as it will be impossible to cover them in situ. I will be happy if I can get the rest of the plane as good I was going to use brown paper but following Ron's tips I will try the rest of the plane with film.

I see this has come back on E bay ,starting at £140

Last week I ordered some bolts etc. from Model fixings at 11 30 am they were delivered next day at 10am. great service.

He found the underside was covered in clear film.

My first model was the Mercury Galahad under powered with an OS 10 Sanwa mini 2 control. It flew well until I launched it into a strong breeze and went into a great loop. It did not have enough elevator to pull out and it was written off .

Looking at the price of the FMS kits on the heading I think the price of foam has gone up in China or they are jumping on the bandwagon.

Me too, .it has a fast grab time. Once built a club 20 model with Gorilla glue didn't clamp it and had to put a 40 in it.

Back on the Tempest now that spring has turned to winter again, retracts sorted out and flaps set up and working. I don't know if there is any weight saving over the original which only used 2 servo's for the flaps and ailerons but a lot of rod and bell cranks, Mine has 6 servos in 4micro and 2 mini . I just need to tidy the wiring make the ailerons and sheet the remainder of the underside The picture turning went well ,Thanks Ron. Cheers Eric.

My work is very Victorian in that case, trouble is mine are not deliberate

Once the covering is on no one will know. Looks good to me

Hi Alan, sorry to prolong the thread hijack , is LX the 70" Hutson Lizzie? it looks bigger than that and as is for a 40- 52 fs it must be a small petrol engine. It has been on my wish list for a long time.

I think Alan is a Westland fan as there is also a Lysander in the same picture.

Hi Chris, this is my set up the battery plugs into the inverter, I have on some used a switch mainly on a tender loco. I have fitted the same small connectors to all my loco's so that I can take the whole system out and put it in another loco, The controller has a 12 loco capacity. I have not used it much over the last two years as I have gone back to model aeroplanes. Apart from the loft layout I have a track in the garden, as the loco's have such a small current consumption I have not checked how long they last between charges . but the chap who put me onto the system does exhibitions and with an LNER tram loco it will run most of the day pulling 20 trucks on one charge. When I do go up to the loft I generally run something for about an hour the leave it for a few days and there is still plenty of charge in the battery. I build my own loco's from kits or scratch, this one is scratch built in nickel silver, only items bought were the wheels , chimney , dome and handrail knobs. Cheers Eric.

I soaked the balsa for the flaps and taped it around a 20mm diam floor mop handle and left it overnight I did not have to dampen it again.

I won't be on the forum for a while, I ate a daffodil bulb I thought it was an onion. I have to go into hospital, the doctor said I will come out in the spring.

Yes Jon, you do need to trim it .If you look at the tip end and follow the profile you will see where the top sheet should end, take an off cut f 1/16" balsa about 3mm wide hold it on the edge of the top sheet and you will see approx. how much to trim off.

Hi Jon, flap area looks fine aileron ribs see to be a bit further in from the edge. don't take anything off the trailing edge if it is in a straight line from flaps to tip, sand the trailing edge lower sheet to a taper following the angle of the ribs the top should then fit neatly on .

Hi Chris, what gauge is the train? I run gauge 0 on a single cell 600 lipo with an inverter which takes it up to 12v . Last time I bought some inverters they were £1 each from China, on a tank loco it fits in in the coal bunker and for a tender loco the battery goes in the tender under a card plate with a dummy load of coal on top the esc is from Micron RC. Just un plug the battery when finished . Eric r.

The Brian Taylor Tempest I am building recommends the battery mounted under the tank bay, I have not decided weather to f it a Laser 100 or go electric with the same set up as the Fury they both weigh the same , but either will be a lot heavier than the Merco 60 in the original so I will put the battery inside the fuselage. Putting the RX and batts in the cowl is ok but wrap them in polythene as there is always a mist of fuel around the cowl. Cheers Eric.

Hi Danny, I can't help much with the access to the tank but my Me 109 with a Saito 125 is prone to flooding with the tank being too high. I bought it second hand , it had not been flown and the bulkhead had been cut away for the rear exhaust on a petrol engine. I am going to go for a chicken hopper system to lower the feed pipe It is ok once running but if I fill the tank then don't start it right away the fuel comes out of the carb (messy stuff) but nice sound and good flight times. With modern fuels the tank should need very little attention no gumming up nowadays and if mounted secure with the pipes not stretched you should be alright. I always fit an inline filter between the tank and carb in an accessible position and a filter in the fuel can . I would imagen the tank on the Auster to be in front of the dash and you will be detailing the cab so making access limited. I would think the RX would fit near the tank but any where accessible would be fine don't forget to wrap it in foam so any leads that need to be disconnected for transport are easy to get to. I hope this helps Cheers Eric.

Thanks Ron, I loaded it up from my phone to lap top then turned it on the laptop I did not save changes that is possibly where I went wrong. In the gloom there is a foot just to avoid a rubbish picture. Eric.

Finally both retracts fitted and working well, a few more webs to complete then sort the flaps and ailerons out. Some unusually mild weather slowed things up and I got some gardening done. Eric r. PS I have not figured out how to turn the picture round

I would not worry too much about trailing edges, I have a CML Me 109 65" span and the tail plane and elevator are flat 1/4" sheet not even the front rounded and it flies well. You just have to look at the current foam RTF'S and the wings all along the trailing edge are abut 5mm thick and they fly well. I always made the trailing edge sharp but it suffers from the slightest knock, I am not so fussy now. Paul, I look at my P51 U/C and think it spoils it after seeing yours I may take time out from the Tempest and smarten it up. Not too keen on adding too much weight as it is nose heavy with a 4s 4000 in the tray. Did they have white sidewalls in WW2 ? if so it would probably be some invasion marking white painted on. It was a craze in the 1950's to have white side walls you could buy white rubber paint, one firm even made rubber overlays that had to be fitted by removing the wheel letting the air out of the tyre , then fitting the side wall which had a thin membrane between the tyre and the rim. At speed they used to flap like washing on a clothes line and did not fare well when the tyre got a puncture.