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Ken Lighten

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Everything posted by Ken Lighten

  1. Ken Lighten
    Hi Jon, Solartex will be too heavy on a model this size, there are lighter options depending on what colour scheme you plan on using, laminating film is popular but will need painting (lightly) it’s cheap as chips (relatively) and easy to use, use a Matt finish film, there are various ‘how to’s’ online for using it, or Litespan which is still available from Solarfilm, there are others but these are ones I’ve used Ken
  2. Ken Lighten
    Posted by Bert on 24/11/2019 10:48:20: Don’t buy wire from amazon or RS, far too expensive. Get it fromThe Crazy Wire Company Bert the flat wire they do could be good for rigging wires for smaller scale WW1 modellers Ken
  3. Ken Lighten
    Available here Wire
  4. Ken Lighten
    I, like Bob, use cellotape, cheap stuff, nothing sticks to it at all Ken
  5. Ken Lighten
    I thought I was the only one who got stung by the ‘gentleman’ from Staffordshire!
  6. Ken Lighten
    I shall have to look out for that next time I visit SLEC Martin!
  7. Ken Lighten
    My latest build, a Sunbird 1.6 metre wingspan electric glider from a ‘cheap’ laser cut kit, an ‘interesting’ build!, there is now a version 2 of it that seems to have removed the really bad bits of the design (think I got it on eBay), flew it today in a bit of a breeze, really nice to fly Ken
  8. Ken Lighten

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  9. Ken Lighten
    I have the Fokker DVII kit (parts only) ordered it as usual online, delivered to U.K. got it last month no problem, there is import tax to pay (I’ll have to check how much it was) but the kit is excellent and, I think, worth the money. The website is excellent, shows the plans and wood list for each model so you can plan ahead, have yet to start it tho, so the design side of it is to be proven. Ken
  10. Ken Lighten
    I thought I’d share my idea (no doubt not new!) for hinging control surfaces on small scale electric models. This is the rudder on my Peter Rake Nieuport IV Swallow tail, I’ve done the elevators using the same method, the rudder is small and delicate and I wanted it to look ‘right’, I used short sections of fishing trace, the same stuff I used for the closed loop controls, and used a pin to make a hole in the rudder and stern post, inserted the short lengths of fishing trace and fixed in position with cyano, works a treat and is strong and no binding. Should be able to be used on all controls on small models where the surfaces are too thin for other conventional hinges. Ken
  11. Ken Lighten

    Ken Lighten posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  12. Ken Lighten
    Your a braver man than me doing that to your wife!
  13. Ken Lighten
    Chill Breeze almost finished, foam wing and Irvine.39 for power
  14. Ken Lighten

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  15. Ken Lighten
    Hi Paul, if you are making some and you are willing then put me down for one for the 150 please
  16. Ken Lighten
    Hi Jon, is it possible to get the type of sleeved nut supplied with the 180 (M10 thread) for the 150 which I think is a M8 thread?
  17. Ken Lighten
    Hi all, I’ve decided to sell my Laser 200 V twin as it isn’t going to be used anytime soon link below   **LINK** Ken Edited By Ken Lighten on 09/01/2019 10:33:01
  18. Ken Lighten
    I would also suggest a Funfly from SLEC, they do them in I.C. and electric versions, the kits have virtually everything needed apart from covering and adhesives. I would also suggest a Super Stik from Sarik as a plan build, laser cut parts are available and it’s a straight forward build Ken
  19. Ken Lighten
    Dick Van Mourik placed his servo’s within the lower wing opening, so behind the balance point, that’s quite a lot of weight in the wrong place according to the plan which has them all positioned just behind the firewall thereby creating useful nose weight, he also added scale panels in the aft fuselage sides, even so, it does seem to be a lot of ballast - it’ll be interesting to see the variations in requirements across the various models being built. Ken
  20. Ken Lighten
    I found another problem with the Sarik parts, the gun trough cut-outs are about 3/16” too deep in F2 - F4, require filling and re-shaping, a tad annoying
  21. Ken Lighten

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  22. Ken Lighten

    Ken Lighten posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  23. Ken Lighten
    Virtually completed the fuselage servo installation, decided on pushrods but using snake inner and outer pieces to support the rods through the frames, rudder bellcrank is bushed with an aluminium bearing on a plain shank bolt adjusted to provide free movement with no slop, closed loop to the rudder (cables installed but awaiting the rudder t one fitted for final connection and adjustment). Pushrod to the elevators will be the straightest route possible and in two parts, the rod from the servo, and another rod from the elevators which will be permanently connected on final assembly with joint within the lower wing mount area I thought it would be a good idea to get this sorted now before the fuselage was too ‘damageable’ and was too much of a hangar rash magnet! Ken
  24. Ken Lighten

    Ken Lighten posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  25. Ken Lighten

    Ken Lighten posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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