Mike T

Is that a 'DYS' motor, Liam? What size is the shaft?

Posted by Frank Skilbeck on 17/10/2016 14:53:46: Follow the notice at the bottom re parking etc and then apply normal slope etiquette.   Edited By Mike T on 18/10/2016 20:15:57

Agreed! Are there any restrictions, Frank, or can you just turn up and fly?

A balmy summer evening, you cut the throttle and she glides down to alight just on the threshold. A little dab of throttle and a touch of left rudder (aileron) and she trundles along the runway on her left wheel. A little dab of right and she trundles along on the right. At the end of the runway, you open the tap and she soars up and away - into the easiest rolling circle ever...

I've used self-tapper in nylon mounts for engines up to .40 size. If access allows, I prefer bolts and "aerotight" nuts **LINK**

Very interesting. It makes a change from the "Defiants are rubbish" orthodoxy and acknowledges the notion that it drew on the success of the "Brisfit" (which apparently had "some success" - I'd call it one of the outstanding a/c of WW1!) Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 27/09/2016 18:17:43

Coincidentally, I have a mate called Reg (also a pensioner) who built a T240 a few years ago. He fitted his with one of the ubiquitous 26cc petrols (either an SPE or RCGF). Flew just fine. Of course, four stroke petrols are nice to own - but horses for courses, eh?

Posted by Percy Verance on 04/09/2016 15:49:11: Just use a two bladed prop Eric. Four bladed props are not as efficient as two bladed props, and you won't know it's a two blader when it's in the air........ Wandering through Tesco the other day, I saw a promo video for a UV-activated cyano type adhesive. One of the uses they demo'ed was fixing a broken blade back on a quad...

Understood, Percy - just flagging up the 'flexi' option for new purchasers

Cheaper, more flexible (literally!) and no less effective than Permagrit's spar slotters is a sheet of their own abrasive material which can be cut with heavy-duty scissors and cyano'd/epoxied to suitable sized offcuts of spruce, ply, etc. You can make up all sorts of scrapers and rifflers with this. **LINK**

When you say 'winter build' - do you mean the mass build, or the plan that'll be in the autumn special? I understand the latter is going to be a Zero. Either way, I'd go for the Tiger every time...

The plan that comes with the Flair kit is pretty much identical to the KK plan you can download from Outerzone: **LINK** Mine was built as per, but it flies with a lot of down elevator trimmed in - the equivalent of cymaz packing the wing TE! A 'built-in' solution would be to build the wing seat area nearer 0 deg. or pack the tail seat LE up a few deg. (at least 5 I'd guess) FWIW, mine flies just fine with the down trim. Edited By Mike T on 03/09/2016 17:44:42

Re needles, adaptors, carbs, etc., this is the sort of guy who I'd hope would take an interest: **LINK**

Brushless gives a quantum leap in performance and I believe motor mounts in the latest version have been modified to make brushless installations easier. It is a superb (and superbly presented) model, which lends itself to all sorts of adaptions and conversions.

Nice! I'm going to try the plug in a 'stock' SC65 F/s, just to see how usable an unmodified engine is.

Posted by Phil 9 on 01/09/2016 09:13:50: I have made a few test pices from scrap to have a practice first Always the best way to learn!

I think the name comes from the fact that a) it flies and b) it's shocking the amount some suppliers will charge for a sheet of Depron

I agree with Bob - it looks as if the original carb had the opposite port providing the pulse - which would explain why there was a milled groove in the first place. They've changed the carb (or their supplier has supplied the wrong spec carb) and the gaskets/spacer haven't been changed to match! Schoolboy howler...

Re Timothy Harris 1's points, more manufacturers do seem to be going for smaller petrols. OS is already producing 'model' petrol carbs (instead of using Walbros). And if OS are selling a petrol plug they must have a degree of confidence in it. (They know dabblers will try it in lash-ups, so they'll have made it robust so it doesn't get a poor reputation.) Re the industrial engines - in their intended use they get a far harder time than in any model installation, so they have to be bullet-proof. Hence they use a virtually unbreakable ignition system, burning readily available fuel. Moreover, it is the system used since their inception and has been proved to work, so I suspect their market would be quite resistant to change (a bit like the 'model' market, in fact!) AFAIC petrol is no more hazardous than glow, if handled correctly, and surely one of the main selling points of petrol/spark is the 'fit and forget' nature - i.e. no more fiddling with needles. The main motivators for me to convert my Moki from glow in the first place were firstly mess and secondly fuel cost - the Moki was a thirsty beast on glow! The fact that I had the tools and materials to do it also helped. It was a simple step from there towards trying the G5 plug.

Posted by GONZO on 01/09/2016 12:25:48: Any use? Yup! Go on - turn some up

Permagrit do convex and concave sanders. I usually do the straight edges using my 280mm sanding block. When they are done, I do the curves - using my 280mm sanding block. All it takes is a steady hand, a good eye and 40 years of experience...

If someone did a range of petrol-optimised needles and jets for popular glow carbs, that would be ideal!

I've got one of these on a cowled RCV91: http://www.rapidrcmodels.com/remote-glow-plug-adapter-with-negative-wire-351-p.asp Once it's on, the glow cap fitting is quite difficult to remove, so no issues over security! Lots about, from various suppliers... Edited By Mike T on 01/09/2016 00:43:39 Edited By Mike T on 01/09/2016 00:44:39

A massier prop would probably help. The wood prop in the pics is a Clark 20 x 8. The Moki will easily swing a 22" but I haven't the ground clearance (even with the "tundra" tyres...). I can live with the high idle, but may try a G-sonic prop at some point (or a Master if I'm really desperate!)

I should add that while this plug clearly works, I am using an engine that's already optimised for petrol (shimmed head; walbro carb). However, as it was originally a glow engine, it shows that a bit of light engineering can make these plugs worth a punt. Next experiment is to try it on a spare fourstroke (glow; no adaptions) to see how it gets on in that...