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Mike T

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Everything posted by Mike T

  1. Mike T
    I should add that while this plug clearly works, I am using an engine that's already optimised for petrol (shimmed head; walbro carb). However, as it was originally a glow engine, it shows that a bit of light engineering can make these plugs worth a punt. Next experiment is to try it on a spare fourstroke (glow; no adaptions) to see how it gets on in that...
  2. Mike T
    I'm using one in a Moki 210 fitted to a H9 1/4 scale Cub. The Moki was converted to petrol by shimming the head (2 shims from JE) and fitting all the necessary Rxcel gubbins, plus a Walbro carb mounted via an adaptor spigot which I turned myself. I heard about the OS G5 plugs, so bought one (about 8 quid) and tried it. It works. Only problem is the idle which is not as low as I'd like - I'll maybe try another shim to lower the compression a bit more. One positive is that I have reverted to the 'reverse bounce' start that got the Moki going first time when it used to be a (messy) glow. Some pics:  First 2 show engine running with ign cap clearly off.  Remainder show installation with and without the Rxcel gear.  HTH. Edited By Mike T on 30/08/2016 23:53:04
  3. Mike T

    Mike T posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  4. Mike T

    Mike T posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  5. Mike T

    Mike T posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  6. Mike T

    Mike T posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  7. Mike T

    Mike T posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  8. Mike T
    That does look rather smart!
  9. Mike T
    I managed it (sort of) on my 388! One throttle (esc) channel was mixed to a rotary control knob, primarily to trim-out the inconsistencies between esc's so that throttle response was linear. It had a side benefit in that said knob could be fully wound back to close down one motor. Installed in a Twinstar II, it was useful for single engined practice. (It became superfluous as one motor always quit before the other anyway!)
  10. Mike T
    I've been looking forward to this, but the price tag is going to force a re-think - mainly looking at 2nd-hand JR11X-Zeros. I can appreciate that FrSky have reacted to the criticism of Taranis' lack of 'plug & play' functionality, but maybe the better sales strategy would have been to release Horus with Open Tx (thus capturing the mature Taranis upgrade market) and follow up with a downloadable plug & play system once the surge of 'upgrade' sales had subsided. Releasing now and at £480, I think they've missed the boat with the collapse of the £ and the general air of economic uncertainty following you-know-what...
  11. Mike T
    I bought a cheap fingertip balancer to make a magnetic balancer with. The balancer shaft turned out to be stainless steel... I also use the Du-bro "wheel" type, for its capacity and accuracy. Re sanding/cutting props, well I always 'dress' moulded props by shaving off the moulding flash and cleaning the seam up with wet and dry before balancing. If the prop is only slightly off-balance, I'm happy to use a 10A blade to scrape the rear face of the heavy blade, which I then polish with wet/dry and or Autosol. If it's badly off, then the light blade gets tape or varnish. Wooden blades get the varnish treatment.
  12. Mike T
    Why a square tube, though? A round tube can be gently twisted to aid extraction. A sq. tube requires a straight pull and my luck would see a former or two getting cracked! The move towards CNC kits is welcome though - I'd much prefer to put those lovely jigsaws together myself. Just think of all the KK Flying Scale models that would actually have flown, had they been CNC cut from balsa (not teak).
  13. Mike T
    I cleaned and sealed the (concrete) floor then laid some 2nd hand (ex work) carpet tiles. Not much in the way of insulation, but it does make standing for long period easier - use localised, thicker matting (per Jack) near worksurfaces. Walls were insulated with gyproc that had 2" thick foam bonded to it (with a layer of Al. foil in between). You could woodchip and paint this (but I didn't bother). I built benches (some with drawers under) on 3 walls and a mobile walk-around bench for the middle - which is a godsend. I used an old 600mm kitchen base unit for this, topped with 18mm MDF, with hinged flaps either side (7' long when deployed). The whole mounted on large castors for mobility - and also helps raise to a comfortable working height. A multi power outlet is screwed to the back. A 1KW fan heater under one of the benches keeps it all snug.
  14. Mike T
    The embedded part of the mount should be vertical within the fus when it is held up level (i.e. when the rear fus. behind the wing is horizontal) The motor carrier that screws to the plate has a few degrees of down bent in a part of the folding process - no more than about 5 degrees, I think. If your internal plate is not vertical, then I suspect your fus has got bananaitis and needs to be 'eased' back in line... HTH
  15. Mike T
    I tried to help out our Club Sec'y by filling in the form (as linked by in the email sent to sec'ys), with a view to saving and sending to him, but I found that while I could fill in the text boxes, none of the 'radio buttons' worked. So I gave up. Just me?
  16. Mike T
    I need to send a kit to someone next week. Has anyone any good experiences, to give me some hope? Mike
  17. Mike T
    Hi Ian. I too have the article somewhere, as well as the (well faded) plan. I just wanted input from anyone who'd built and/or flown it! rgds, Mike
  18. Mike T
    SO - that'll be a big fat NO, then...
  19. Mike T
    Back in '82(ish) RCM&E did a plan feature on the above multi-task slope soarer. I thought its shark-like lines were superb, so I bought the plan. I'm toying (again) with the idea of actually building it, so I wondered if anyone out there had any experience of it, good or bad? (As far as t'internet is concerned, its a bit of a black hole...) Mike
  20. Mike T

    Delta Head

    Mike T replied to Ray Pinchin's topic in Autogyros

    Rich - thanks for the drawing, but you may want to revisit it - I think one of your angles is a bit squiffy
  21. Mike T
    Agree with Djay (assuming he means the conventional layout CD version)   I've got an RCV 91 in my H9 Thunderbolt (same range) and it goes very well - sounds superb too.   Whatever you go with, make sure the cooling air can get in, is guided around the cyl. head and can get out again.   Mike Edited By Mike Tiley on 13/05/2009 18:33:56
  22. Mike T
    The previously pictured "Bugly Ugger" is a Vickers 151 "Jockey".  First flew in 1930, so the Boeing P26 Peashooter (1932) looks like it - not the other way around .   Mike
  23. Mike T
    Hi Roger,   Looks superb!   I also like your Heyford and COW gun fighter as well - any more details - size, structure, power, etc? (or are they on another thread I haven't spotted?)   rgds,   Mike
  24. Mike T
    65 is too big.  52FS is the "sport" engine of choice, equating to a 40 2S or 400/450W electric   Tony - I'm sure you'll capture the essence of the aircraft as you always do, just don't make too many compromises in scale accuracy for ease of construction.  After all, if all those people voted for it, then they've got to be prepared to tackle the challenge of building it - otherwise you might just as well design them a Wot4 with roundels.   Several people have said it before (including me) and I'll say it again:  what we need is a structured poll, not just the free-for-all we've had for the past two years.  That's the only way to ensure that everyone who takes an interest has an opportunity to make their vote count.   Finally, I know in your heart of hearts you probably wanted to design a Whirlwind - so why not knock one out (!) and offer it to Traplet.  Go on, you know it makes sense!...   rgds,   Mike
  25. Mike T
    I'm happy with the Lysander.  People going on about wing loadings obviously have no understanding of the aircraft - it's a STOL for heaven's sake!  The wing will be more than up to lifting its weight.  The fus looks tubby, but its a lightly built stringered structure, so I don't foresee any problems - apart from getting the necessary strength in the glasshouse to take the wing roots.  At 1/9 scale it should be fine for affordable electrics or 52FS.   Re design , in addition to K.I.S.S., I hope Tony also bears in mind "K.I.L.L.L." - Keep It Looking LIke a Lysander (we don't want another Hurricane on our hands do we?)   Also, people keep referring to 4-engines types like the Connie being fanciful and impractical.  Well hasn't RCM&E just run a 2-parter construction article on a 4-engined flying boat, viz one Short Sunderland??   Finally, a couple of people have, correctly, identified the need for a more structured selection programme.  I think a poll to select the "genre", followed by a shortlist drawn up by David/Tony (the arbiters of what is commercially/aeronautically viable), followed by a final top 10 run off.  Hopefully such an approach will lead to the logical choice of the WESTLAND WHIRLWIND for 2010 (you know it makes sense )   rgds,   Mike
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