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ST Models MX2


Delta Whiskey
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I had a bit of a mishap and burned out the original ESC and as a result I fitted a Hacker X70Pro ESC that I had spare. The performance was OK before but now is even better. Vertical climbs are fast and limited only be eyesight! I didn't measure on the original ESC but with the Hacker it is drawing 380W static. This must be more than before cos I only get 8 mins out of a 2200mAh 3S when I got 12mins before.
 
What is it about different ESCs that affects performance - do some just cause more of a voltage drop or resisitance?
 
I'm not really up to speed (sorry about the pun!) on how prop size affects performance on electric motors. It feels overpowered on full chat and I would like to reduce the current draw so my instinct is to go for a lower pitch but what about the diameter?
 
Any info much appreciated.
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Mark.
Re your prop question do you have a watt meter ? its an essential bit of kit when changing prop sizes, that said, if you go down 1in on diameter or reduce the pitch a bit on the original diameter you should get a reduction in power.
 Oh i see its your first post , wellcome why not post a profile so the others on the forum can respond to suit you.
TW2

Edited By tom wright 2 on 18/04/2011 22:57:12

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Tom
 
Thanks - I do have a watt meter. I guess what your'e suggesting is just get a few different size props and see how it affects the power then try it in the air. I'm fine with the effects of prop sizes on ic but the electric side is relatively new to me.
 
I see from another forum that I am not the only one who has suffered from the original ESC going up in smoke!
 
Mark
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  • 4 months later...
Hello all,
 
My ST-Models MX2 almost took fire yesterday, because of an ESC overheat. The wires between the ESC and the engine unsoldered and the ESC is covered with caarbon...
 
Well now I have to get a new ESC, hoping that the engine is not dead (do you think it can be?).
 
What would be a nice ESC to get?
 
Do you have any advice on how to wire the new ESC? The engine seems hard to access. Will I have to cut the front part of the fuselage?
 
Thanks a lot,
 
Xavier.
 
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You could try just cutting the wires and soldering on bullet connectors as I did. You can pretty much wire it anyway, and if the motor still works and is spinning the wrong way, just reverse two of the connectors. Get a 40 amp cheapie ESC.
 
Failing that you can just cut the nose section off, and reglue, you might have to do this anyway if the motor is also fried !
Good Luck

Edited By Delta Whiskey on 05/09/2011 09:12:13

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I just got my MX2 and am in the process of upgrading the u/c mounting, being an aircraft structures tech I have a wide choice of aircraft grade ally to choose from, if I can work out how to post pics I will try to do so. Decals, P.I.T.A. fitting them, took ages then sealed all edges with polyurethane clear varnish, it looks like it worked OK but time will tell, had no adverse effect on the foam.
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Posted by Rustymitch on 13/09/2011 03:45:36:
..........Decals, P.I.T.A. fitting them, took ages then sealed all edges with polyurethane clear varnish, it looks like it worked OK but time will tell, had no adverse effect on the foam.

I know you've already sealed the decals with varnish so it's too late, but the best way to attach them is to use a covering iron on a very low heat. This softens the adhesive and makes a very good bond to the foam surface. My MX2 and Blaze's decals are still firmly attached after many fights. This technique also works extremely well for the decals supplied with Multiplex kits.

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  • 2 weeks later...
quite a few now have this aircraft and they do fly really really well however what they don't tell you in the review is how quickly the airframe deteriorates into a sack of crap they still seem to fly well but look worse than those women who have had too much botox in their forties, all airframes were bought at the same time as i bought my addiction X at Weston park and theirs looks awful mine still looks mint, i think it has a lot to do with that very poor U/C
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  • 3 months later...
Allan, I tried to scan the maual for you, but my scanner's decided to strike! Anyway, I took a photo of the relevant page and whilst it's not the best quality, you can see where the CG measurement is taken from etc.
 

.

Edited By Tim Mackey on 08/01/2012 17:24:45

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  • 1 month later...

Hi new to this board so please forgive any Bloopers. I have the new uprated esc with the metal cooling sink seams ok at the moment. Does anyone know what is the best direct motor replacment as ive bent the shaft and cant find a replacement one.

Thx in advance.

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Hi DH...

I have an MX2 that is YEARS old.. Been crashed Several times, but it just wont die! I flew it into a 40 container last year (NEVER drink and fly!). one hour later it was glued back together ( I was sober when I glued it up LOL) ... Anyway.... Years ago my motor died, (and the ESC wasnt too clever either, but it was the early model). I fitted a cheap motor form Giant Cod.... The link to the site is below. If you go this route, It'll be cheap and the performance will blow you away! (and for under £15 quid!!)

Enjoy..

Ian.

http://www.giantcod.co.uk/epower-bl2815-brushless-outrunner-motor-920kv-p-402456.html

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Thanks for the info I will have a look. The supplied motor is good enough for me but I don't seam to be able to find a direct replacement. The Esc seams ok but its winter here in Spain. Any recommendations on Esc for the above motor.

Ps for sum unknown reason I had to crate a new account to login.

DH

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Hi DH...

I suspect they didnt like your logon name  I thought it was a touch of Genius myself .

 

Here is what I put behind the motor I bought..... I dont think they do this EXACT ESC any more.... but it will give you a clue ! (Copied form my GiantCod account).

 

Products
1 x Hobby Wing programming card - ForHobbywing Pentium / Guard Range £4.84
1 x HobbyWing Guard 40A Brushless Speed controller ESC £22.34

Good luck and happy flying!

 

Ian

Edited By David Ashby on 27/02/2012 13:42:59

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