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Fuel-Proofer


weasel
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I am at the stage to fuel proof the inside of the tank bay, and have a tinof Ronseal Quick Drying Varnish and was wondering if this swag will be ok?
 
  Regards Weasel......
 
  P.S    The Weather is mule hear in Alnwick, Lots of Rain!! a good building Day.
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ronnie/aka weasel-----your new found pal's in the south dont appear to be forth comming with a solution youngin  .............here's what i would do warm up some epoxy(as discussed on the phone)..and coat the rear of F1 and the tank bay floor and wall's..this should be all you'll need....wing resin will also do as well......
 
ken anderson  ne....1.
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  • 4 weeks later...
Weasel.
 
get down to the local motor factors and get a small tin of polyester resin,Its the stuff used in fibre glass car body repairs and it come with a little tube of hardener
 
Best fuel proofer I have ever used and it has a long shelf life
Its called Davids fast glass resin and it costs £4-65,I might sell you some when you come down to see me,    £5-00 to good friends.
 
Just got back from holiday so give me a call when your ready,
 
Jim 
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I use meths to thin epoxy for fuel proofing but I've found Skincrylic (no doubt the same or very similar to the other water based varnishes) to be a superb fuel proofer - and you can use it the next day unlike traditional fuel proofer that needs at least a week to cure. Being water based it's easy to work into corners in tank bays etc. and adds little weight.
 
Used externally it gives a semi-matt finish which is just right for warbirds which, I'm told, were often polished to a certain extent for performance reasons.
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Posted by Myron Beaumont on 29/10/2010 21:43:11:
John
What is "Rubbing alcohol" for diluting epoxy . Should I buy a bottle each of vodka/gin/whisky and try them all ? Seriously ,it sounds like a good idea 'cos it is usually a bit too thick to spread nicely with a brush & it would penetrate wood easier
 Rubbing alcohol available from good hardware stores - about £5 / 500 mls - lasts and doesnt go off.
 
It is a mixture of ethyl and meythyl alcohols - I think - with additive to make it unpalatable.
 
Reference I saw to using this advised against meths which is cheaper, but I cannot remember why.
 
john
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Hi Weasel,
 
by the sounds of it you have had lot's of useful information and everyone says similar thing's.
I myself do one of two things, or both things together, firstly like said above by Steve you can use Aerocote two part fuel proofer. This is great for wood but not so great for use on film (only has a short life on film before reapplying, useually breaks up and also doesent look good when this happens), I useually mix it then apply with a brush to all the area's which need it. Concentrate on the joins of the wood, screw holes etc.. anywhere the fuel can pour into and ruin the wood from the inside out.
I useually apply quite a few coats of this as well to insure good sealing of joins, this stuff is great as it soaks into the wood, the downside is the amount of coats and filling the joins.
 
Now, Epoxy, this in my opinion is the best I have used normal 5 min and finishing resin. I my opinion the finishing resin is the best, apply a few coats for a great job, seals the joins and partially soaks into the wood.
 
Oh and if I used them together the aerokote would go on first, I have only done this once though and it was for soaking into softer wood behind the firewall.
 
As for the quick drying varnish, I would persoanlly give it a miss unless you could guarantee its fuel proof, and not only that - is it heat resistant?, heat could loosen the varnish every time you fly.
 
What ever you choose I hope it works out.
 
Cheers,
 
Craig.
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  • 1 month later...

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