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Control Rods


Shaun Clarke
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(Timbo...note I am refraining from saying "I have a silly question" but....I have a question about the control rods in my ARTF trainer.

I have only played with electrics before and the control rods are just a wire rod in a plastic sleeve.

The ones pre-installed in my trainer look very different. They are basically a plastic tube with a piece of (very thick) wire each end threaded into the tube (rather than the wire running all the way through the tube). The wire is so thick I cant see it being able to push through a hole on the servo arm. Is this setup normal in this type of larger plane or is it simply just 'crappy' ones chucked in their at the factory?

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The thick wire ends should be threaded, so that you can screw on a clevis which then clips into your control arms. If it is not, then you can replace them with short threaded sections.

do NOT enlargen the holes in the servo arms / horns to accomodate a wire which is too thick, as this can seriously weaken the arm ( on the model silly ) .

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I am guessing that what you have here is what is commonly known as "snakes"

A rigid outer plastic tube carries a thinner section inner plastic /nylon rod. This inner section rod is often "fluted" to reduce friction, and usually hollow.

Short lengths of small studding /threaded rod are screwed into each end, and then clevis's screw on to thesefor connection to your control horns. I often just cut off the threaded ends of metal pushrods to make up these threaded stub ends. Beware there are different sizes of threaded rod.

These pictures will hopefully show you the principle.

Clicking the picture will result in a larger image. HTH

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7074/partsur1.jpg


http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4940/assmblysf6.jpg


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I will see what I can do...This is irony for you: I work fairly long hours, no spare time etc...but I set up my 'workshop' in my converted loft..accessed by a ladder. I put a nice solid table up there, all my tools etc...now Im off work with a broken foot...got LOADS of free time....but cant get up the bloody ladder to the loft !!!!

I will see if I can get the fuselage down and take a pic Timbo.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Shaun, in that case I would hazard a guess if its an ARTF model then they are using their own make, the example Timbo showed you is one of the two colours that I mentioned and the make is usually Sullivan, still goes though that if you ever have to replace one just ask for a Sullivan Blue snake.

Should have told you really that the Blue ones are stiffer than the Reds and usually used for the main controls such as the rudder and elevator where you have a virtually straight run, the Reds are very flexible and meant for where straight runs dont work out such as aileron controls.

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The control rod for the rudder is actually wood...with the metal wire screwed in each end.

Im going to start gluing this together this week....I dont think it is particularly well made. Already found a problem with the tail plane/fin assembly (see my "fuselage length" thread). Now I have found the wings dont match up properly when the 2 halves are offered up together. So will need to find a way round that one!

I really dont want to cock it up hence all the questions. Im hoping to be able to get to my local club this month and pick up some advice there. I would love to build a scratch model if I do a good job of this one !

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Yes the rudder rod is definately wood. Aslan: The model is an Olympian 40 Trainer....looks exactly the same as a Tutor 40. There is not a lot on the box or instructions to go on...there is a Greek sounding name on the box 'Mavromanolakis' and also has the brand name Micro Made Models. The model came from a friend who brought it about 5 years ago and never built it. I got the Irvine 40 ABC MKIII (Brand new) and the model for £40. The instruction manual is in 2 parts...1st part is for a scratch kit version...and 2nd half for the ARTF version which I have. You may have read my thread "Fuselage length" and also have this problem with the wing I mentioned. There are lots of bits of wood, rods etc that I have no idea where they go as the plan is not very precise or to scale. I have asked many questions on this forum recently precisely because of lack of adequete instructions...and expeirience of course.
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Unless they are supplying something special, then I wouldnt advise just screwing the metal studding into the end of the wooden pushrod. Normally this method uses a short length of metal pushrod ( approx 3" ) which has thread at one end only, the other plain end being bent over at right angles for about 1/4" or so. The wooden pushrod then has a corresponding hole drilled into it, the bent end of the metal length is inserted into that hole, with the remaining metal rod laying either flat against the wooden rod, or recessed slightly into a linear groove. The whole lot is then either bound with cotton and glued, or more commonly these days.... held tight in place with heatshrink.
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