Peter Miller Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 The hole in the side fr the quick link only needs to be about 1/4" square. You don't even notice it and there is no oil seepage with my oily engines. The end of the strut hides it to a great extent. Trust me, it is far neater than going gthe other way. I will also say that, like you, I hate spending time putting models together, especially in winter and thsi s the quickest way that I have ever seen. Just remember to put the side of the quick link with the pin aganst the former. My F-1 was 1/4" ply. When the model thumped down in a field due to a sick engine (Fuel) the undercarriage snapped the nylon saddle. Yes, I was using big G clamps to hold the fuselage together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Okay Peter I will have another look at the kwiklink and strut connection and I think I will use it. Must admit its easy connecting on the field so that would be a good advantage. Think that a 1/4 ply laminate on the lower part of F1 will do the job , I do like the setup of the landing gear and the damagecontrol of the nylon saddle. Here some more pics. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Coming along nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Are there any more modellers building the Tailwind or already have a flying Tailwind. This is a very nice model so there should be some more builders out there. Some more pics of my build Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Lawson 1 Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Yes I am still into my Tailwind build, am following Peter's plan to the letter, as I don't know any better way !! Now really struggling with the 12g wire bending, not worked such heavy gauge before and finding it difficult to achieve crisp bends. Ton, Peter...any advise/ tricks ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 You really need a good wire bender. The only alternative is a really solid engineer's vice and heavy hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Lawson 1 Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 Peter Of course I mean't 8g not 12 ! I've bashed my way through the support wires in the formers using a vice and hammer as suggested, but it's not as precise s I would like. I've sent for the K&SMighty Bender which claims to deal with wire up to 1/4 inch, but I'll settle for improving my bends in the 8g, can'y see myself ever using bigger diameters. Thanks for the reply Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 Dave , Would be nice to see some pics of your Tailwind build progress, what do you think of the build so far and how many models did you buld already. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Lawson 1 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Ton Sorry missed your post, this is only my second plan built aircraft and is much more of a challenge than the first, the Luton Minor. Can't do photographs at present, I'll investigate that !!!! Found a mate with a proper wire bender at the weekend, so now have a first class undercarriage in 8G as per plan. Nearly finished making all the parts, currently making up a battery box and motor mount basicly using an extension forward of Peter's mounting box. Then covering and assembly !!! Thanks for the thread Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Lawson 1 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Ton Sorry forgot the cowl...starting on that today!!! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted April 6, 2011 Author Share Posted April 6, 2011 Dave, Looks like your going fast Iam getting more curious by the minute. Have just placed the cowl in 3D cad because I want to modify and make a splitt version and the top as a hatch and not using blocks of balsa. But first places the fuse aside for building the wing. Here some pics and much more to follow. Plastic tape on the plan for holding he trailingedge with some drups of ca in place while gleud to the ribs. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 some more pics; Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Lawson 1 Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Whoops !!! Peter, did your prototype end up nose heavy ??? I seem to be heading that way, looks like the battery will have to go way back towards the tail area, certainly behind F3 yet I'd planned to put it in your motor box. Does that make sense ??? Regards Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 I seem to remember that mine did not need any adjustment to the CG, If it did it will be mentioned in the text. Possibly you have saved a lot of weight at the tail end with lighter wood. Then a battery is probaly a lot heaveir than my fuel tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 Some more pics Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Coming along nice Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 I see that you are screwing the strut to the wing. Me? I'm lazy, the less screws etc the better, especially in winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 David, Thanks how is your Tailwind comming together. Peter, Yes Iam screwing the strut to make sure it stays in place and also to give it more strength. The wing sits only on 2pcs 2mm pianowire so the strut is really functional. The other reason is that I want to make every connection durable so I can fly it for a very loooooong time. Ready for the final sheeting. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 Well it's at the...er..... planning stage at the moment Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 Don't you ever go to bed David? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 The wings are as ready as they can be for the final sanding. The wingtip whas not the easiest job but its in place including the washout as per plan. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Yes, those tips were a bit of a fiddle to do, sort of "cut and try" but you have done a great job on them. Bye the way, did I mention that even with no dihedral and the tiny rudder the model can be flown on the rudder only? That should not happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted April 24, 2011 Author Share Posted April 24, 2011 Hi Peter , Yes it was a bid of a fiddle but always good to have a little challange. Always good to know I can bring it in on rudder when the ailerons fail, not that I hope they will fail some day. With the wing out of the way I started with the next challange , the cowling with a hatch to charge or switch the Lipo batt pack. Also wanted to work with total sheeting in stead of big blocks of balsa. But before building that on to the fuse I had to sort out the gear location which will be sort of sandwitched between two ply formers with balsa in between. Later some pics sorry have to eat first. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Funny, I don't remember any big blocks of balsa on that cowl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.