David Gilder Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Welcome to the WINGS section of the Charity Mass Build 2011 In this section I will be explaining the build of the Webbit Wings!! I appreciate that many of you will have built many a wing in your time and if this is the case then I promise I am not going to try and teach you to suck eggs!! This will hopefully act as an assist to those who are building their 1st kit build or built up wing and may be unsure of just How, Where and Why to do things!! Please feel free to pop your comments and ideas on building the Wing in here. I wont be upset. after all.... Theres more than 1 way to skin a rabbit!!!! But most of all......... ENJOY!!! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W-O Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Weigh all the parts, ribs, spars and sheeting, and assemble it so that it is balanced. I forgot, and one wing needs 7g on the tip to balance it. (I have measured and re-measured, and i haven't made one side longer than the other ) I usually weigh it all, and put the heaviest ribs in the middle. Use a cheap digital scale off ebay, but is fairly accurate, and very repeatable, so fine for the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Sheeting probably has the most impact, so if you cut the upper leading and trailing edge sheeting from the same piece, swapping one end for end should help. (so they end up mirrored) IYSWIM. Back to you Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Good Morning Webbiteers!!! Its time to start looking at the Wings for your Webbit now!! Before we start to build it is worth checking you have all the bits you will need, that should be in the kit box!! You should have: 2 Main Spars 14 Ribs 4 Balsa wing tip Parts 2 Ply Wingtip Parts 1 Leading Edge Balsa Strip 1 Trailing Edge Balsa Strip A few lengths of Rib capping Stip Balsa So... You have all of these bits ready.... YES?? GOOD! So next is to look at your building area! Ideally you will have a purpose built building area with a FLAT surface that you can pin wood down to!! (I dont, So you will see just how I built my Wings on a Kitchen Table!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Now. A lot of builders like to build over the plan itself, and I would agree that this is the best way to do it, but as you can see.... I dont have a build area big enought to lay out the plans to do this!! Cover the plans with either cling film, fablon, or if you want to go "very traditional" use a clear candle and rub it all over the plan!!! I am sure that someone will be able to provide a picture for me of their plans covered in one of the above methods, but I just dont have one!! SO... ON WITH THE BUILD!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 The 1st step I took was to take the Lower Main Spar and mark the rib positions along the length of it!! Ensure that you mark them square and you will not go wrong later!! Having done this, Its time to start gluing on the spars!! ALREADY? did I hear you say.. YES!! Using your choice of Glue (C.A. or PVA Wood Glue) proceed to glue the ribs onto the Bottom Spar. I tend to start in the middle and work out towads the wing tip on each side but leave the wingtip ribs till all the other ribs are in place!! I found that the rib cutouts were a good tight fit onto the Spar! Use a Set square or a CD case to ensure that the ribs are Vertical. If using PVA wood glue you will need to periodically check that all the ribs are drying vertical. If you are careful, you can use pins to assist here aswell... Carefully push a pin at an angle through the rib into the spar. This will help to hold the rib vertical ! You will notice that I have layed the top spar over the rear end of the ribs. This helps to ensure that the ribs are sat sqaure and to be sure of this you will notice that the tabs on the rear lower end of each rib will be sat flat against your build board! These tabs will be removed late in the wing build!! Dont worry if you break some off during the build.. You can always pack some scrap wood under the rib to the same level as the rest!! Edited By David Gilder on 01/04/2011 13:13:18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Right then At this point you should have all your ribs glued onto the lower main spar.... YES? Good, Lets move on then!!! Now its time to glue in the UPPER spar!! This is a little easier but again it is just the same as doing the Lower Spar.. Mark onto it all the rib positions (just like the lower spar) and then siply glue into the precut slots on the tops of all the ribs!! ( I tend to start from one end on this, as if you dont get it flush on the first end, it wont reach the last rib on the the other end!!) You will then need to weigh down the upper main spar to ensure it is glued in flush with the tops of the ribs and more importantly, it does not allow any wing warp to creep in!! Most builders have many weights around to use but again like my lack of Building Board.. I dont!! So I have to compromise!! So her we are Ladies and Gentleman..... The CLEANEST WEBBIT WING BUILD!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Brilliant David, Cant wait to get started on mine. Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cantwell Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 blummy, so your not an LMA member then, and i moan with an attic workshop, back bedroom workshop, and a dirty great garage to play in!!! i feel humbled, top bloke, enjoying the build, its been a while since i stuck some sticks together, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Alan My house is for sale and will hope to move to a bigger house so I can have a workshop for my modelling!! Fingers Crossed!! I guess what I prove is that you can build a model with VERY LITTLE space!! (It does help that I have a VERY understanding Girlfriend !!! who has just bought me a predator UAV model that arrived this morning!!) Glad your enjoying the build!! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Hi Dave, I'll be starting my wings as soon as I get the fuselage finished. All going well so far and I should be ready just in time for when you've finished so that will be handy. Great photos Cheers, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 Back to the build then!! By now you should all have all the ribs glued to both Upper and Lower Spars! So next job is the leading and trailing edges! L.E. (leading edge) first: To do these i again marked the positions of all the ribs on to the rear face of the L.E. Then apply glue to the front edge of all the ribs. Lower the ribs onto the L.E. ensuring that they all line up with the marks you made on the L.E. To secure for drying i again used pins, angled through the rib then into the back side of the L.E. When dry you can simply remove all the pins!! Simple!!! Now repeat this process for the T.E. (trailing edge) Again I appologise as I completely forgot to take any pics of this stage!! I built my wing before I accepted to lead the wing build thread!! Maybe someone can help me out here and post a pic of their wing at this stage! More soon!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 Right then troops Its time to look at the next stage of the wing build, - Wing Sheeting!!! As per the de-structions! We will sheet on side at a time!! So side 1: Using a sheet of 1/16th balsa. Gently chamffer one side along the length to allow it to but up square against the back of the L.E. You will notice that all the wood is just the right length to go from tip to tip!! Place glue along each rib as far back as the Rib, Along the Rib and along the chamffered edge of the sheet. Carefully place the sheet into position on the wing, starting at the L.E. and lay it on towards the Spar! Again, Time for those pins. Pin the sheet down at angles through the Ribs and along the fron edge (into the L.E.) When dry, you can remove all the sheet that is REARWARD of the Spar as this is not needed!! Now you need to cut a 1 inch wide strip of 1/16th balsa sheet!! (Make 2 as you will need one for the other side !!) Carefully sand the T.E. to follow the line of the Ribs. (When sanded correctly the rear edge should measure 5/16ths high!) Now measure 1 inch from the trailing edge towards the Spar and place a small pencil mark on the ribs. When you have done that you can lay glue along the T.E. and up each rib to the pencil mark!! Lay the 1 inch wide strip so it is flush with the back of the trailing edge and .... You Guessed it..................... PIN AWAY!!!! (See photo above!!) It should look like this now!! Right then!! Once this is all dried thoroughly, you can remove all the pins and take a break!!! You deserve one!! Edited By David Gilder on 02/04/2011 22:34:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Nice, neat job Dave, I can't believe how you work in such a small area. Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Wow, I'm complaining about the lack of space I have to build in - I have the use of a spare bedroom. Really makes me feel guilty when I see what a great job you're doing here with minimal facilties Dave! As you say it puts "the lie" to all those folks you say "Oh I can't build because I don't have a top class workshop full of power tools etc." Well done mate - a good example. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 To make fitting of the sheeting a tad easier and to add some strength I'm adding a 1/16 LE, the top and bottom sheeting will be taked down to this and the LE propper will be glued to this. For those who have not read my controls posting the double ribs are to hold the aileron servos, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Hi Dave, I'm doing well with my wing so far but I have run into a little query on the trailing edge. The profile shown on the plan is to continue the profile shape of the ribs but the 1" x 1/4" trailing edge is rectangular in section. This means when the sheeting is applied to the rear of the wing that it curves and flattenes out over the trailing edge. Did that make sense? Perhaps a photo will help - I've overlaid the plan so perhaps you can see what I mean: What should be I be doing here please? Thanks, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 Ian. I am at work currently hence no update on wing build for a few days. I did cover this in my last input but maybe it wasnt clear enough! "Carefully sand the T.E. to follow the line of the Ribs. (When sanded correctly the rear edge should measure 5/16ths high!)" Your picture shows this much clearer. Thanks I will endeavour to do the next stage when work allows in a few days!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Quick re-read..... ....Oh dear, so you did, sorry I even read your blog to find the answer and I missed it, WOT a plonka Gotta go and do some sanding now Cheers, Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 Welcome Back everyone!! Sorry I've not done so more WING build blog but I have been at work on shifts and had to spend yesterday with the family.... So Cracking on then...... By now you should have your wing with sheeting on one side front and rear!! Fo rthise of you who have foresight you will have worked out that you need to do this also to the other side of the wing!!! HOWEVER :::::: It is now that you will need to remove all the tabs from the ribs that are still attatched!!!! I would be amazed if they are still all attached!!! ( I think by this stage I only had a few left attached!!) Once this is dry you can cut and glue in the middle sections of the sheeting. You will need to cut the wood to fit here and it should cover over 4 ribs across the middle of the wing! Whilst all this is drying we can look at the ailerons! These will have come to you as 1 long piece so you will need to cut these to length! Carefully mark your cut lines by laying the wood on the plans!! REMEBER to MEASURE TWICE and CUT ONCE!!!! Once you have cut the Ailerons out you will be left with a section of wood spare!! Well, This is not waste... You need this for the centre section between the Ailerons!! Now then.... For those of you who are mounting a servo in each wing you need do nothing more then glue this piece centrally on the T.E. For all of us who are only using 1 servo to control the Ailerons we need to arrange to mount the Torque Rods! Mark on the thick end of the Centre piece of Aileron wood where the torque rods will run along as this will need to be reccessed to accept the torqe rod. (note this doesnt go all the way accross!!) Carefully cut out and sand the area within these markings to a depth that is half of the torque rods widest point (this is usually the torque rod mounting brackets!) Next, you need to mark the same on the T.E. of the wing!!but only out as far as the Torque Rod will reach!! Do this for both sides to accept both Torque Rods! You will also need to cut out some of the T.E. of the Wing and the Centre Piece to allow the Torque Rod to move!! Now you can mount the Torque Rods to the T.E. of the Wing And then you can glue on the Centre Aileron Section to cover over the Torque Rods!! It may be work marking the centre line of the wing and the Centre Aileron Section so you know that it is CENTRAL when you glue this on!! I use Epoxy resin for this as this piece will take some stress against the fuslage!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Andy Green Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Ref. the cutting of the slots in the wood. I've used the Permagrit spar slotters for years. These are a buy once use for a lifetime tool. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Ian Jones Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Dave, As a matter of interest, how did you bend your torque rods. It looks like I am using the same ones and they need bending to go into the back of the ailerons. I usually just stick them in the vice but it's a bit hit and miss getting it at right angles to the horn end of the rod. A better way would good to know about. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... David Gilder Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 A Good Point that I omitted there!!! Ian... I actually dont know a better way but if anyone else does then I too would be interested for future reference!! For mine I did just the same as you Ian.. Carfully bent them in a vice bit by bit ensuring I get the as close to the right angle as possible... I then "twised them" a little to get the correct allignment! (only by a degree or 2! They can take that!) Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Geoff Smith 1 Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Posted by David Gilder on 11/04/2011 16:17:25: A Good Point that I omitted there!!! Ian... I actually dont know a better way but if anyone else does then I too would be interested for future reference!! For mine I did just the same as you Ian.. Carfully bent them in a vice bit by bit ensuring I get the as close to the right angle as possible... I then "twised them" a little to get the correct allignment! (only by a degree or 2! They can take that!) Dave Hiya Dave. Not having the luxury of a vice (no not that sort of vice) I will have extreme difficulty in bending the torque rods. What minimum thickness would you suggest that I could get away with bending with pliers only? Cheers mate Geoff AKA Webbiteer No: 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... David Gilder Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Geoff, My Torque Rods ae 2.5mm thick and I could have easily used 2 pairs of pliers to bend them! I just find a vice easier as I can get the bend in exactly the same place on each rod!! I have used pliers in the past and not really had any issue doing it that way!! Hope it helps! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2 Join the conversation You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible. Reply to this topic... × Pasted as rich text. Paste as plain text instead Only 75 emoji are allowed. × Your link has been automatically embedded. Display as a link instead × Your previous content has been restored. Clear editor × You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL. 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Andy Green Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Ref. the cutting of the slots in the wood. I've used the Permagrit spar slotters for years. These are a buy once use for a lifetime tool. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Dave, As a matter of interest, how did you bend your torque rods. It looks like I am using the same ones and they need bending to go into the back of the ailerons. I usually just stick them in the vice but it's a bit hit and miss getting it at right angles to the horn end of the rod. A better way would good to know about. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 A Good Point that I omitted there!!! Ian... I actually dont know a better way but if anyone else does then I too would be interested for future reference!! For mine I did just the same as you Ian.. Carfully bent them in a vice bit by bit ensuring I get the as close to the right angle as possible... I then "twised them" a little to get the correct allignment! (only by a degree or 2! They can take that!) Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Smith 1 Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Posted by David Gilder on 11/04/2011 16:17:25: A Good Point that I omitted there!!! Ian... I actually dont know a better way but if anyone else does then I too would be interested for future reference!! For mine I did just the same as you Ian.. Carfully bent them in a vice bit by bit ensuring I get the as close to the right angle as possible... I then "twised them" a little to get the correct allignment! (only by a degree or 2! They can take that!) Dave Hiya Dave. Not having the luxury of a vice (no not that sort of vice) I will have extreme difficulty in bending the torque rods. What minimum thickness would you suggest that I could get away with bending with pliers only? Cheers mate Geoff AKA Webbiteer No: 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Geoff, My Torque Rods ae 2.5mm thick and I could have easily used 2 pairs of pliers to bend them! I just find a vice easier as I can get the bend in exactly the same place on each rod!! I have used pliers in the past and not really had any issue doing it that way!! Hope it helps! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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