Peter Miller Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 IT is very stable. No washout. I ever bother on parallel chord wingss. The wing drop is very gentle and you have be pretty brutal to get it to drop. A take oiff at half flap and model took off, reared up and stalled. Onle minor damage luckily but it doesn't like flaps at full power. It might be better with just a smaller amount of flap but quite frankly its normal take off is about five yards without any flap so why bother. It does nice but very non scale loops and rolls. Landings with oor witout flaps are great. I think it needs less flap at both settings. I wish that Spektrum allowed one to use infinitely variable flaps like my old Futaba. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josip Vrandecic -Mes Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Hi Peter ,a good maiden flight...I never doubted it ...congrat. Please tell me the weight(you mentioned weight during the construction..if I not mistaken) of model has any influence on take off or lending ? p.s. LS 60 looks magnificent. Cheers Jo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Weight is 6 lbs 5 ounces. I thought that it would be more at one stage. Wing loading about 26 ounces per sq. foot. I was lucky. the CG came out exactly right without any ballast. The take off is very fast, about five yards. It lands pretty slowly too, especially with flaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josip Vrandecic -Mes Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hi Peter ,thanks for your time....and I say again...beautiful model. Cheers Jo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 The full plan and build article for this model will be in RCME's Dec 2011 issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share Posted November 16, 2011 I have had two lots of proofs for checking. Most the plan in the magazine seems OK now BUT take note. The holes in the ribs for the 8 SWG wire dowels are way out. The holes on the fuselage rib where the tubes come through are the closest to accurate so, if you are cutting out your own parts make the holes in the ribs to match that. The holes in the ribs should be central to the spars in height and fore and aft. I have sent the corrections to SLEC who will get the job of cutting parts out. Quite honestly I wonder how such errors can creep in. I built from a print of the same plan that I sent in and it was accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Peter, What a superb model of a charming aeroplane! Just been looking at your article. Right up my street really - just a pity I didn't get to it first really..... Oh, to forestall the inevitable question, I'd hazard a guess at a 4S 4000mah cellpack and a 600 watt outrunner. tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share Posted November 16, 2011 Hi Tim. Thanks for that. I am very fond of this model. I am sure that it will be electrified by lots of people. Actaully should make life a bit easier for them. Just hope people don't get too messed up with the rib holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W-O Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Posted by Peter Miller on 16/11/2011 18:43:10:Hi Tim. Thanks for that. I am very fond of this model. I am sure that it will be electrified by lots of people. Actaully should make life a bit easier for them. Just hope people don't get too messed up with the rib holes. I would think that anyone who builds it, is not going to be the person who would no check as they go, and have a complete picture in their heads as they go along. The leading edge reminds me of a more modern one I built, the C H 7 0 1.The CH701 full length flaperons mounted below the wing that also keeps full control down to low speeds. I used a ramin J section, and filled it with balsa for the leading edge slats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 Yes, this is not a model for the novice at plan building even though it looks simple. Yes, I know the CH701. Made by the same company that made my Super Acro. I did have works 3 views of that plane but can't find them now. Neat idea of yours for the leading edge slats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclicscooby Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Just found this, after getting the mag today.. Pete, I don't know you, but we must be on the same wavelength some how.. !!! I saw a FF Tailwind pic, loved it, and really wanted one, then the NEXT week, the mag comes out with your Tailwind plan... Now, I've recently found the CH701/750, and here you are again... !!?? Bit spooky.. !! You're not net-stalking me are you.. ?? I've already got plans blown-up for a big CH750, and have just started cutting ribs for a smaller one, BUT, your build has proven useful in respect to bending the wood for the slats.. Regards Pics, give me a minute and i'll get mine up for you.. Luv Chrisie.. xx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclicscooby Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 OK.. You ain't gonna like my methods, a bit heath robinson by all accounts, but.. I used Microsoft picture and fax viewer, and set the following zoom setting, before taping greaseproof paper to my PC's LCD Monitor, and tracing it.. !! The first is a non-scale 3v CH750.. By zooming to 35% for the top view you get a fuse length of 540mm (W/S 728mm). The front n side views need a zoom of 34% to get a 537mm length.. This wing section is pilfered from the 'Design of a STOL' pdf, freely available from the zenithair www.. Enlarged to 92% to give a 105mm chord minus ailerons The final one is only for consruction reference, i've not used it directly For the Tail sections I used a pdf of the CH801 component parts, which is actually to scale, and would have made a better base-plan to work from.. It's a 1:40 plan which I zoomed to 375% I've just had a quick look, but cant find it.. Everything I got was from http://www.zenithair.com/stolch701/7drawings.html plus the other planes and various info... Soz if it's not up to your usual standards, but hope it helps point you in the right direction... PM me if you have no joy, and i'll email the pdf... Luv Chrisie.. xxEdited By Cyclicscooby on 22/11/2011 23:42:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Hi Chrisie. It doesn't matter how you do things so long as it works for you. As I said somehwere else on the Forum. I had works drawings of the 701 but can't find them at the moment. However I recently did a model from the same stable This is the Zenair Super Acro. The 701 does not really apeal to me and I have several other projects on my list of "To build" models. In fact it grows longer every week. The slats are fairly heavy and on your smaller version you could leave out the 1/64" ply lamination if you wanted to. Main reason for that was to get a good sharp knife edge at the trailing edge of the slat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclicscooby Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Cheers Pete.. I'm cutting my rib complete with the slat profile. I plan to skim the size, by 1/64, and plate them. One complete front strip, and either 1 or 2 slotted rear panels, or just infills, so they'll be hollow.. And i'll be using your bending method to do it now.. Luv Chrisie.. xx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence Lynock Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Cutting nice clean holes in any soft material is easy, I use diamond coated hole saws which are dirt cheap on Ebay, they go through Depron, Balsa or anything else without tearing or ripping grain out, when they get bunged up you just burn off the residue and wire brush the stuff off. Diamond hole saws for tiles and other ceramics start at around 2mm up to 60mm and a set of six 2mm to 10mm will cost about four quid and last a lifetime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 That s a good tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IAN EDGE Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 I could spend hours reading these build blogs ( sorry i already do ) its great to see a job done well, i really must get my finger out and do a buld myself after all i have purchased enough plans , keep up the good work inspiring others Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Thanks Ian. Glad you find it interesting. Yes, get building, it is so satisfying and something to do when the weather is lousy for flying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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