Werewolf 3

[Jonathan Lewzey]

What the hell!!!!?????

Why didn't you just build a Bf 109 or Fw190?

Oh well - still looks ok. Beauty must be in the eye of the beholder

Jonathan

[Peter Miller]

Hi Jonathon.

 We fly from rather poor grass strips. I like models with low wing loading. Building a true scale model would have meant low high wing loadings and a model that isn't forgiving on rough ground.

Werewolf is not meant to be scale in any way. The idea is the sort of plane that a homebuilder might build and style to look like a warbird. This give the flying characteristics of a lightplane with warbirdish looks. IT also means that you can use any colour scheme that you like and no onbe will say that it is wrong. I hate scale models that do not have an authentic colour scheme.

[Jonathan Lewzey]

Ok - maybe i was a bit harsh with my initial comments. Not knowing where you fly from and only assessing the model as to what i would want from the model. I'm not particularly a sport flyer and prefer a bit of 3D or some nice smooth scale flying with warbirds. I wasn't getting at the model, it's very nicely finished - it's just I fly from a nice, regularly mown, strip that is perfect for scale models

[Peter Miller]

Hi Jonathon. Don't worry, I wasn't offended, everyone is entitled to their opinion and I would never say that they are wrong.

 I was just explaining the way I think and my reasoning. We fly from a WWII concrete runway about once a month which is nice but that is not often enough.

I like scale models too but have found that true scale models with higher wing loadings are not my cup of tea. My recent scale Fournier RF-7 in RCMW is typical of the sort of scale model that works for me (See my other album). The other one that also worked well was my Culver Dart, (See my Avatar.)

[Allan Jordan]

 Hi Peter, I think it looks great! Never seen one before!

 Regards Allan J..

[winchweight]

I like it and would like to see it as a free plan!

[Peter Miller]

I believe that it will be a free plan in the January issue. I will then add construction photos that are not used in the article. A set of ribs and a canopy will be available, Insignia are also available. sources in the article.

Wait til you see my next one, ready for test flights now.

[Bob Cotsford]

gissome clues Peter!  What's the size?  Ic I hope, nice looking model, I might even buy the magazine.

[David Ashby - Moderator]

As Peter says we're aiming to have it as the free plan for January issue which will be out around mid-December.

[Peter Miller]

52" span. .32 to .40 engines, wing loading 19.25 ounces per sq. ft if you don't add too much weight.

Very smooth aerobatics and the best glide that I have ever seen on a  model of this type. You are almost guaranteed to overshoot by miles on your first landing.

All my usual construction techniques so easy to build.

[Bob Cotsford]

you are not endearing the model to me Peter - we have a hedge on approach, long flat approaches don't hack it!  Mind you, rig for flaps/flapperons and the old Merco 35 that's lying redundant could see service again.  Roll on christmas

[Peter Miller]

Do NOT rig the ailerons to act as flaperons, they are out at the wing tips and would generate tip stalls.

Extend them in and make them separate flaps as per my Midget Mustang an they will be fine. Modification would be very easy, Just remember to hinge them on the bottom.

[Andrew Bright]

I picked up your plan in the January 2008 RCM&E and decided to build the Werewolf. The appeal to me was the simplicity of design and construction, as well as the reported flight characteristics. However I decided to construct it as an electric version, instead of with an IC motor. 

To date the wings, rudder and elevator are structurally complete, and the fuselage approximately 80% done. I have had to make some changes in order to accommodate the battery. Also, I will change the cowling a bit and intend to manufacture a fibreglass unit. Not absolutely necessary, but is my plan anyway.

Will post some pictures as the construction develops

[Peter Miller]

Have fun.

I never mind if people make changes, after all, it is rare for plan builders NOT to make some changes. I always say that that is the first step to designing ones own models.

Changes can either improve a model or detract from the performance. I only get annoyed when someone makes a change which reduces the performance or weakens it and then blames the original design.

[David Atherton]

A question for peter miller.

I bought the rib set and canopy,the canopy is fine.

The problem is the ribs,while they are roughly the right shape when compared to the plan alot of them are too small in height,too short in length and the 1/4 x 1/4 cutouts for the spars are big and will be a sloppy fit.I bought the rib set with accuracy in mind.

I rang the place up that supplies them and they said they have had no other complaints of the 60 or so sets they had sold.

Did you build a model with the laser cut ribs or did you cut your own from the plan?

I cant decide weather to use them and adapt them to fit ok or to make some new ones myself from the plan. if i adapt them to fit the wing section will be different to that intended,not by a million miles but by enough to through up concern.

[Peter Miller]

I built mine with a set of the laser cut ribs which seemed very good. I know that the rib slots were a good fit for the spars.

I can't explain why they should have gone wrong since then. I just sent a copy of the ribs to Green Air Designs and they scanned them in and cut them out.

At the sizes we use on models slight variations in wing section will make no noticable difference to the flying characteristics. Wether you can live with the other inaccuracies is up to you.

These days I copy the parts onto A4 size self adhesive labels and stick those down to the wood. At least I know that they are as accurate as my drawing. My ribs are actually computer generated.

Sorry that I can't be more helpful.

[David Atherton]

Firstly,thanks to you quick response,didnt expect it if im honest.

Im gonna go ahead with the laser cut ribs,there isnt anything that far out that cant be sorted.

Ill post some pics when its done,the fus and tail feathers are done just the wings and covering to do.

Im gonna go reno race style colours,a base of white with red and blue bits too.

A mate of mine has mastered his seagull boomerang trainer,would the werewolf be ok as a first low winger as he fancies building one.

Dave

[Peter Miller]

Hi David.

The colour schemes sounds good.

Werewold is fairly docile, in other words, not twitchy. Providing your friend doesn't over power it  it should be OK as a first low wing model.

I find that people who have really mastered a modern trainer have no real trouble with a low wing model. I still remember my first low wing model (About 30 years ago). After I had landed I said "What is all the fuss about?" IT is more a case of getting used to knowing which way up it is.

[David Atherton]

I went to start the wings tonight and i cant find the mag with the build article in it.

Peter, please could you give me a very quick guide through.

Im right in thinking i pin the bottom sheeting down first?

Thanks in advance.

Dave

[Peter Miller]

THE WING

The sequence of construction of the wing has been developed over a large number of models. It guarantees that there will be no warps. Note that the wing is kept pinned down until all the sheeting has been completed.

Pin down the lower leading edge sheet, lower centre section sheet, the capstrips and the trailing edge sheet. Glue down the lower spar.

Laminate the Liteply doublers to the ribs as shown. Cut the U/C mounts from ¼" ply and make sure that they are a good fit in the slots in R-1a to R-4.

Now be careful to follow the instructions for this stage. Fit the ribs to the spar fitting and gluing the undercarriage mounting plate into the rib slots but NOT to the lower sheet. This is because it will not be in contact with the sheet at this stage.

Fit the paper tube for the aileron servo lead before fitting R-1. This tube is made by rolling paper round some ½" dowel and then flattening it slightly.

Fit the top spar and the aileron spar and leading edge followed by the aileron ribs. Note that the ribs end at the rear of the T.E. sheet. This is correct.

Chamfer the bottom of the 1/8" leading edge strip to match the lower surface of the ribs. And glue in place flush with the bottom of the ribs.

[Peter Miller]

Raise the lower leading edge sheet and glue to the bottom of the ribs and leading edge. I use lots of short pieces of scrap trailing edge material as wedges to hold the sheet in place. I use aliphatic glue along the leading edge and CA to glue the sheet to each rib.

Make sure that the sheet is on contact with the ribs, especially at the root. The sheet is glued to the U/C plates later. Fit the webs between the spars, the grain should be vertical on this. The webs are in front of the spars so that the top sheet can be clamped to the spar.

Fit all the assorted blocks for the hinges, the infill at the root to take the wing bolts and the ply plates for the aileron horns. Also fit the Dihedral brace.

Fit the hardwood block for the U/C upright prong and add triangular material in the corners between the mount and Liteply ribs.

Plane and sand the top of the wing until everything is smooth and flush with the ribs.

Fit the leading edge sheet. I use clothes pegs and bulldog clips to hold the sheet to the spar and map pins at the leading edge.

Fit the trailing edge sheet, centre section sheet and the capstrips. Fit the 3/8" X 1/8" trailing edge. Doing it this way is easier than trying to chamfer the trailing edge sheet.

One wing is now ready to lift from the board.

Repeat the process for the second wing up to the stage of fitting the top sheet. Do not fit R-1 or any top sheet yet.

With the second wing still pinned down on the board join the completed wing to it. The tip of the second wing should be propped up 2" above the level of the board. This is not critical and using the alignment of the dihedral brace will be pretty accurate.

Now fit R-1 to the wing. This ensures a perfect fit at the root.

The second wing can now have all its top sheeting fitted. Once dry the whole wing can be lifted from the board. It will be true and rigid.

Glue on the 1/8" sheet leading edge capstrip and when dry shape as shown.

The next stage is to fit the bearers for the Radio Active Wing Servo mount and once this has dried fit the mount and add the sheet at the end.

I like to fit the control horn at this stage and then connect it to the servo before separating the aileron, this makes sure that everything is set up perfectly.

Now separate the aileron and shape the leading edge to allow the movement. Make and fit the wing and aileron tips. Glue on the ply plate to take the wing bolt heads.

Find the centre of the U/C mounting plates and slice out a strip of leading edge sheet to take the undercarriage wires. Drill through for the upright and radius the corner to allow for the bend in the wire.

[Peter Miller]

Mark the location of the saddle clamps and cut away the sheet to clear these.

Now you can glue the leading edge sheet to the mount by running glue under the sheet in the U/C slot.

Open out the hole for the wing dowel and temporarily fit the wing. Build up the fairing with 3/32" sheet as shown.

The wing is now complete.

There you are, the full text for the wing

[David Atherton]

wow,i wasnt expecting that!

Thankyou soooooo much.

I Can get cracking now.

[Peter Miller]

It was easier than writing it out, just copy and paste. I am dead lazy!!!

[Ken Cutty]

I've built it and flown it and love it.Thanks Pete !

I'd like to include a photo but I dont know how.