David Bess Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 electric looks like it's over twice the cost but then I am surrounded by farms and get on well with the farmers as they are dairy they would defenatley would not like a 2 stroke buzzing there milking cows ,but a silent bird they might let me , needs thinking about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Ward Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I switched to electric about 8 years ago and have never looked back. It won't be twice the price if you buy a lot of the Chinese clones. There's folks flying 12lb Brian Taylor Hurricanes on these low priced motors with no troubles. I like electric for all the above reasons plus I can bring the plane home and toss it on the couch or dining room table without any dripping goop! Very minimal prep time to fly too. Also no nasty vibrations to shake loose the details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Hi chaps. I agree with Craig above. You can get equivelent electrics for half the price of the stuff I have, and they are great value, and I am sure problem free. I have only been back in the hobby for three or so years now, and the plane that I learnt to fly on was a E-flite apprentice. As I taught myself with the aid of a simulator, and the plane survived (ok it has a few added extra's in the way of glue and duck tape!!), the electrics have been transplanted to other airframes, I have confidence in the brand, even with my learning abuse! It is that confidence that I am paying for. When you consider the all up cost of flying a model - balsa, plans, coverings, paints, retracts, radio gear motors etc and not to mention the time invested then I think that putting the best you can afford in the front end makes sense. Like I say, lots are happy with the chinese stuff and good luck to them. I have only tried a few cheap motors in smaller foamies, and the shafts on both bent at the first nose over. Cheers chaps, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 As clean and easy to use electric sounds good , but just starting the cost of every thing taken into account ,the TX ,Sim and tools to start from scratch is something like 250 to 300 quid and thats before you buy the balsa ,servo's, engine and all the rest needed to build your first bird and fly ,I will have to go IC for my first bird and look into electric for my second build , Thanks for the advice guys but cash flow will dictate my choice , Electric is my preference but IC is a lot cheaper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Hi David. Dont be put - off by the costs involved. I had the plan pack for the spit for about a year before I got the money for the motor and esc, which I needed before I could build the fuselage. The radio gear you need whether it is ic or electric. the battery packs I have built up from various projects over a period of time. Like I said I started with a E-Flite apprentice. The reason was it came with a proper radio (spektrum dx5) system that could be used in other aircraft, a basic charger and lipo battery etc, and electronics which I could use in other stuff. The other reason is that being a loner I knew I would crash. and found the apprentice airframe to be very resilient. (the first time I flew it I was so surprised that did fly I forgot to move the sticks - CRUNCH!) The other reason I went the 'foamy route was the emotional connection to the airframe. You are going to crash, and you will need to repair. If I had spent hours building it in the first place then I would have been upset. as it goes, a bit of white duct tape and gorrrila glue and good to go. A sim is worth every penny, and as long as you get a decent one the re-sale price on ebay seems pretty good. (I keep mine to practice stuff on). As I wanted the power of 4s packs for this project I had to move up and buy a decent charger, but the one that I oriiginally got when I started still works fine for 3s packs. The radio I have up-graded to a DX7, and am very happy with it. but once again the original 5ch DX5 still works fine, and will keep it as a spare. I will stop wittering now - just to re-cap though. Whatever rout you take most of the stuff is expensive yes, but it is not a 'one use' thing. The transmitter is good for 20 aircraft memories, the batterys can share around the aircraft, you only really need one charger if you plan it right, and the rest just goes to the next when the airframe dies. You really can spend as much or as little as you like on the hobby, so good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 NNNOOOOOOOO The cost wont put me off mate , It's the model I want to build ,I havent been bitten by the flying bug yet ,but I am sure I will be I used to build balsa gliders as a boy ,my dad built ships from balsa and he showed me how to model with balsa so I can do the build , the wing fairings on the Spit is a similar method to hulling the stern of a ship where the hull shapes into the keel , I like to see how other modelers work , you can learn a lot from others , I will get my TX and Sim first then my retracts and servos, balsa and then get stuck in ,it will take a while to get started but I will do it , Thanks for the encouragement I am enjoying watching your build , cant wait to see how you do rivets , and fit the access hatches . Much to learn it's all good fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Ward Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Another thing to consider is the cost of fuel for the IC version. I can buy Kypom batteries dirt cheap now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 That's fantastic seeing your method of fitting the canopy. That's my next job on my 62.5 inch build, so thats very helpful. Thanks. I'm interested to see how you plan to do your panel lines too. I'm also rather impressed by your radiators and exhaust stacks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 I ve not put you off then David? - good.......... mind you it does all add up!!! Just a couple of pics today. I got the control surfaces all hinged and fitted, and did a spot of filling and wet and drying. It is now sitting in the middle of the lounge floor whilst I admire it. It is really coming together now, and I have been pondering which paints to use. I might use Tamiya acrylics as I am used to those, not sure about the correct colours though. Any Idea's folks? The tails looking great aswell! Thanks for the positive feedback, and I am glad It is of some use to you. I have been planning the Panel lines and rivets, so watch this space. Edited By mightypeesh on 25/01/2012 19:23:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 LOOKS RELY GOOD I hope mine turns out as good ,you should be pleased with your self mate the tail does look good very detailed ( is that a pun) I like the blue recon Spit you would be able to see it low to ground but might vanish against a blue sky but I still like the all blue , then again the French spit is smart too Mmmmmmmmmmm choices choices LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hi David - I've been experimenting with emulsion paint would you believe it! I have an iPhone and discovered a free app for Crown paint which identifies colours from photos. I got a tester pot made up in the Crown centre (?3.50 for a quarter litre) and mixed it with per mix screen wash. (the blue stuff from halfords.) I then airbrushed my test piece, which i havekept in step with the build, and although you can't really see it on my build log the finish is fantastic, and I'm very happy with the colour. There are a few lumps and bumps where i didn't rub int down properly. My airbrush has a 0.8mm nozzle which possibly helps, but then it was only about ?6 from Axeminster tools. BTW I then dusted the surface with water based varnish, and when that had dried put a couple of thin coats on. The varnish tends to pool on the paint if you put too much on the first coat.If you want me to have a go at colour codes point me at a photo of a scheme and I'll see what I can come up with! You will find others on this forum who have used emulsion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Axeminister tools thats near me where do you live Graham ,I am half hr. from Exeter or do you shop there on line they have a great selection of tools as a joiner / cabinet maker I use them a lot . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 My Mum and Dad live in Lyme Regis. I live a long way from there! Up in Grimsby! I was down at new year and got a fantastic compressor in the sale, with an airbrush and touch up gun and airline bits for ?85. Mind you they can be pricey! Anyway we better get back on topic!I'm waiting to see your build too David. Have you got any balsa yet? February is nearly here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 no balsa ,bad month water pump on Tranny went so did my TX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Good morning gents. Thanks for the Crown tip Graham, I shall look into it. It is difficult choosing the colour scheme to go for, and took me ages to decide. Right, I will get to the panel lines later, but as I had a moment at work the other day I made the mold made to cast up the pilot I sculpted a while ago. I am afraid my camera's battery went flat when I made it but I will briefly run through the process. Fix object to be molded to a flat base so A, it does not move, and B, if it is light it does not float! the silicone used takes hours to cure, the last thing you want is you object swimming around in sticky gloop. I used some double sided tape. Build a wall around it about a centimeter bigger all round. I used foam board only because it was to hand, you can use card or go for ply for bigger objects. I taped up all the joins with masking tape - once again you can hot glue or whatever - as long as it holds and does not leak! (it really is sticky gloop) The silicone that you need is 2 part RTV mold-making silicone. There are lots of different ones out there, you can get a 500gm pack on ebay for around £15, If you are not sure contact the sellers. Mix up the two parts according to the instructions with your silicone - mine was 10 parts catalyst to 100 parts silicone - measure carfully using accurate scales. I mixed up 250gms for the pilot so I used 250gms of silicone with 25gms of catalyst. Mix the two parts well until you have an even colour. If any remains unmixed you will get sticky patches that wont cure, wrecking your mold. Pour carfully inyo your prepared mold box, and leave to cure. drink lots of tea. then hours later you should end up with this I used a scaple to cut the object out, using small cuts so that the surface provide a location key when you put the mold back together. tape them back together. and then cut some scrap card over the openings with a small hole in line with them. This is the stuff that I am going to make them from very light, and VERY messy. wear gloves!!!! Shake well and insert the tube to the bottom of the mold and squirt gently to fill it right up. (you need to hold the can upside-down to use it, I was posing here to show the idea) The purpose of the card is to force the foam to expand in all directions inside the mold. It takes the route of least resistance, so if it can escape too easily you will have bits missing from the cast. It will then expand out of the hole. Mmmmmmm cannot think what that reminds me of? Nice. After squirting this stuff, bend the end of the tube over and secure with a peg. that stops the foam setting in the tube so you can use it again. leave to set for at least 6 hours. De-mold and bobs your aunty! The original which I made from sculpy weighed in at 100gms. The new poyeurathane foam one just 3gms!!!! how good is that? Needs a bit of a clean up, then I can get my paints out. Edited By mightypeesh on 29/01/2012 08:01:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Brilliant - I have always found pilots a too heavy and this is a great way to save weight. It seems that the weight of the pilot is always at its most detrimental when you are already suffering from problems with the COG. I shall have a go at this soon. Like the build too. You are making a good job at it. Will look forward to seeing it finished and flying! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Quick coat of primer, looks better than I thought, the detail has picked up really well. with the original. And cut down to fit in the 'office' Ready for action! Edited By mightypeesh on 29/01/2012 09:42:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trex700e Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hi there, Great work, this spitfire is looking great. One word of advice: you seem to be using a propeller designed for an internal combustion engine. I would replace that for an APCe prop designed for electrics, its lighter and better balanced. Trying to use the IC prop is just going to wear the motor out slightly faster. Thanks Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hi. Thanks Will. All the props I use are for electric -the prop I am using at the mo is a Master Airscrew's electric prop, so will be Ok. Saying that, it is one of the few things I do know about props! Thanks for the advice though, cheers, SimonEdited By mightypeesh on 29/01/2012 10:25:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Lovely work mightypeesh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Love the pilot great method foam cast a good weight saver , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 really looking great, nice explanation on the mold making Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Thank you for the positive feed back, I am really enjoying this build! Got some of the paneling and rivet lines done today, which I have been looking forwards to. I have read about this method in various forums, and also about really fine masking tape for making some of the lines. Now being really tight about spending what adds up to about £12.00 for a roll of 1/32 tape used in graphics I made my own by sticking masking tape to my cutting mat and then cutting with a scaple. Sorted. Also in one of TN's articles in RCME he mentions making a rivet marking tool from an old gear wheel. I already had a thing called a 'pattern tracer' which is used for marking fabrics and stuff from a paper pattern. So. Mask up your lines to seperate area's - this is realy not scale, just a look, so no measuring!!! cuttng tape marking 'rivets' with tool (not too hard) spray over primer and remove tape..........Simples!! Quite pleased with the effect. I will add some aluminium foil details as well when I get to it. Change that to very pleased! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 EXCELLENT PERFECT WOW I AM IMPRESSED Looks so real ,is that clever or what . This is what I will do ( with a lot of practice ) Thanks for the lesson ,and I am enjoying your build as much as you can't wait to see the aluminium detail , this is going to be some beautiful Spit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Walters Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 You should be very pleased! That, I think, was a lesson to a lot of us about doing things simply and getting a great result! Thanks! I'm glad you came back to building! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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