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Mini lathe recomendation please?


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I'm due to retire soon and wish to equip a modest workshop (ok, spare bedroom!) with a few tools to ease my modelling. I've always wanted a mini lathe and would like to hear advice, tips and recomendations of what to look for and what to avoid please?
 
I don't want anything too fancy but also hopefully something that I will not outgrow or will be a false economy.
 
Thanks, Chris
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Look for a secondhand Unimat.   I cannot offer advice on what cheap mini lathes are avail now but I suggest you go to the Model Engineer Exhibition or the Alexandra Palace show and see whats avail. There will probably also be a stand from the Society of Model & Experimental Engineers, and one of the men there might give you unbiased advice. Just make sure you buy all the accessories you need whilst they still make them! I mean the things special to that lathe not general tooling. Budget to buy the lot or nothing at all. Asian makes come and go quickly.
 
However I reckon you would do better to look for a second hand Myford 7 in the long run, if you have the space for a heavy machine.. It won't go down in value like a cheap Asian lathe would. Accessories are always available too.
Do you need a lathe?  My experience is I have never used my Unimat SL or Myford 7 in making a plane yet.   Good fun for other things but not really needed for planes.

Edited By kc on 29/11/2011 13:44:45

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Do you need a lathe? - I see things different - I always make use of my lathe - from small aluminium disc spacers to complicated threaded flanges for an exhaust extension.
Especially if I build from a plan or kit I use the lathe - but I also made parts for ARTF models like an improved wing fixing.
 
By the way - the Unimat SL - was a good engine - as it is no longer produced. but you may find it second hand. There is a Unimat 4 which is the replacement model. you find some info at http://www.emcomachinetools.co.uk/Home/tabid/36/List/1/Default.aspx
Emco was made in Austria (WAS) - now they are also coming from China,
 
As mentioned in other threads - I own a Emco Compact 5 (slightly bigger), I have bought almost all accessories over the years and I am very happy with this tool.
Cheers VA
 
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I agree with VA. As a model engineer I find a small lathe a big asset in aero modelling. Just this last weekend I helped a friend repair his damaged 3D foamie by turning a small nylon bush for a wing fixing.
 
I've also become increasingly popular by members at my local flying club now they have discovered I can fix bent motor shafts !
 
Chris, I suspect you might find a Myford 7 a bit too weighty for your average bedroom floor (it could finish up in the lounge !). You might find my site of some assistance in deciding on and using a lathe http://start-model-engineering.co.uk
 
John
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I have a very well used 4 1/2 inch Smart & Brown SABEL lathe (similar to but supposedly better built than a Boxford / Southbend) which I use constantly for modelling. Once you depart from ARTFs and simple kit / plan builds, especially when building scale models, I'd say a lathe is invaluable - and only a bit less so is a small milling machine!
 
On my last major build (1/4 scale Cub):
 
Special scale spinner
Various components of in cowl exhaust system
Various suspension parts
Dummy brakes
Scale trim winding handle
Wing strut clevises (after commercial fittings failed!!!!)
Various tailwheel components
Plenty of sundry washers, spacers etc.
 
OK, I could probably have bought commercially available substitutes for many of these components but the satisfaction of watching my own scale undercarriage working (and especially being remarked on) far outweighs the investment in tools and time. After all, many of us are supposed to be modellers and any flyer aspiring to modelling (as opposed to assembling) should understand the satisfaction to be gained.

 
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Martin - I certainly understand, I have a small copy lathe, currently in my Dad's shed, which I can use, but the 3 and a half hour drive to use it at my parents place puts me off all but the best planned uses!
 
I will be sorting the basement out over Christmas and setting up the router table which can also hold various other tools as bench tools, such as jigsaws and so on, I expect this will come in very handy for my Zeno Project when I eventually begin.
 
Olly
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I recently set up a new small workshop and would have liked a Myford Super 7 but did not have the space/money so I did a lot of research into small machines.
Eventually settled on a Conquest Super lathe and Champion 16V mill from Chester Machine Tools.
Both these machines come with calibration certificates and have proven extremely accurate, certainly enough for making replacement parts for obsolete engines, and all manner of components for aircraft. - spinners, exhaust stubs, shock absorbers/suspension for 72" Maule, prop drivers etc.
Just made set of scale wheel centres for J3 cub, replacing plastic hubs of off the shelf wheels.
Good luck with your choice!
Gordon.
 
 
 
 
 
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Thanks for all your good input and ideas, plenty to think about but still happy to hear from anyone else?
 
Gordon, I have been looking on the Chester website but apart from the digital tacho I'm not sure of the difference between Conquest super and standard lathes. Perhaps you could tell me what influenced your choice as I was leaning towards the standard model.
 
Thanks
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A few years ago I bought a chinese lathe and milling machine
 
The lathe is about 570mm between centres, and had done very well so far. I am used to using large and accurate lathes, and for the size and cost, can't complain.
 
The milling machine is very useful, used s a pillar drill as often as a milling machine
 
I bought a few extras such as 4 jaw chuck, screw cutting gauge. Fortunately I had tools and cutting steel, because what I have bought on ebay have been worse than making them out of candle wax.
 
Neither may be as long lasting as a big name, but I'm sure they will outlast me, and home hobby use is not exactly demanding.
 
Accuracy is more a function of the operator than the machine.
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Chris,
The reason I ended up with the Super was that it was on special offer.
I think the only difference is that the Super has digital readouts on the cross-slide and top-slide.
I am amazed at how accurate these have proved to be and have found that I can rely on them even when making a final cut after checking with a micrometer.
One thing though, the tools that come with the lathe are rubbish, but they do a very nice set of indexable ones at a good price.
Hope this helps!
Gordon.
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Posted by Gordon Blakemore on 29/11/2011 18:00:16:
Martin,
Don't know about the cross-wind landing bit, but mine is also Hangar 9 J3. basically the same tyre problem though, plus the axle hole was not true so wheels were eccentric.
Still need a touch of UHU on the rims, but now running smooooth.

Only my wheels/tyres are from Hangar 9 and I suspect mine's a fair bit heavier, being a traditional build with a fair bit of detailing at around 20 lbs - so they're probably a bit more stressed. I tried the UHU (POR) route but the tyres still pulled off...

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Martin,
That certainly is heavier!
I think the tyre width versus rim width is my problem, and probably too spongy as well. I am looking for a set of harder compound which may suit better.
I got some nice oversize air wheels on my Maule and would like to try the same on the J3 - don't know if you saw "Flying Wild Alaska" on TV - they have some big wheels on their planes!
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I've got a Chester Model B 3 in 1 for sale, with stand and lots of accessories - screw cutting gears, face plate, independent chuck milling collets, etc. etc.
Bought new in 1998. Very much the same as the one in this picture, but factory painted green.
Not been used since 2005 as I don't have enough room since moving to this place. £750 the lot. PM me if you're interested.
 

Edited By Devon Flyer on 29/11/2011 21:20:39

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