ntsmith Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Who said it was cheaper to build from plans never see my invoice from SLEC. The order which was mainly balsa and mainly just for the Bar-Fly was £75. At least its all good stuff from SLEC and the grades are pretty good. I have at least now started and have the wing ribs cuts out (used the sandwich method) but there are one or two oddies that still need to be cut out. I have started, as I usualy do, with the tailplane framework. I have started this even though I am in the throws of finishing the Slik-Fly (Yep, by the same legendary designer Phil Kraft). Unfortunately, the Slik-Fly was just a few years later for this vintage build but to be honest, I think I am going to enjoy flying this one much more. its just a feeling that I have. Thats the log started at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Kearney Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I had a similar shock buying all the bits for the Mini Tyro, few planks of wood, some tin for the tank, bit of brass tube, couple of packs of lifespan, crikey it adds up quick!r. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Posted by ntsmith on 24/01/2012 20:19:48: Who said it was cheaper to build from plans never see my invoice from SLEC. If you just look at the finished model (ie the end product) a self made model is alot more expensive than you can buy an ARTF for. but self made models cost look more cost effective the larger the model but take a .40 size model £75 wood, £10 plan, £20 for covering plus control horns linkages fuel tank wheels u/c the cost soon mount up. but then if you think building is part of the hobby and add up your hobby time building and flying and divide the total cost by the number of hours hobby time you get out of it you get alot more hours enjoyment per pound than you do from the average ARTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Put another way. An ARTF is like a one night stand and the "home built model" is the one you fall in love with and marry ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Kearney Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Does that mean the re-kitting is the divorce?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Usualy too many re-kittings seem to result in a divorce but likewise does it mean we can have only one home built but have a few ARTF's as long as they don't know? Sent via the "totaly confused by my own statements" department. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Perhaps this should be on it some where?The parts; not quite up to date! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 you can still get those stickers from the BMFA for £1-50 in a mixed pack of a rear windscreen type and some self adhesive and water-slide transfers. If you put one on, by law you have to display your BMFA number on the upper right wing On the point about wood costs, my 84" Eros came in under £40 for the wood from SLEC, a big bundle of 1/4 sq and 1/16-3/32 sheet for the most part. What hurt was the cost of covering and painting which came to around £50! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 I believe PK had his number there so it may fit in keeping with the model. The good thing with the price of wood issue is that there is often enough for the start of another model - hope the better half doesn't realise it is already under construction ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanN Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Posted by ntsmith on 24/01/2012 20:19:48: Who said it was cheaper to build from plans never see my invoice from SLEC. The order which was mainly balsa and mainly just for the Bar-Fly was £75. At least its all good stuff from SLEC and the grades are pretty good. With SLEC it really pays to think a model or two ahead and order £100 worth at a time. That way there's a 10% discount (rather than the 5% for over £50) and postage also then becomes free. Makes it substantially better value Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Ian your not wrong, makes good sense.Bob the cost of covering and trim has gone up like the cost of fuel for the car, if you already have a stock you don't realize until you replenish it.NT you have a way with words , can we have some pici's, this is one I'm definitely interested in.Cheers,Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu knowles Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Agreed that on the face of it, the economics don't stack up, I used to believe that. Now I feel that many of the ARTFs out there are absolute dross, shiny finish but bottom line, unfit for purpose. I think that the 'one night stand' analogy is a good one, a good home build model will outlast several of their flimsy bretheren, despite what the glossy ads would have you believe. stu k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Posted by Big Bandit on 25/01/2012 19:56:09: NT you have a way with words , can we have some pici's, this is one I'm definitely interested in. Cheers, Chris. I agree - I am also looking forward to this - it also looks like a kwik fli 3 may be joining the fold so we will have a full house. I used to think that the Bar Fli was ugly sister of the two (fli) machines in vogue at the time. Time is a great corrector of views though Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Stu your not wrong either, Apart from the PZ foamies which are generally cheap as chips and great fun, I have two ARTF's which are not my favorites. Home built models have a soul and generally last longer, are easier to repair and can be personalized. A bit like bikes . And lets face it building from kits and plans adds to the experience to which ARTF's add next to nothing. But I wouldn't go as far as saying their dross, they have a place in the whole scheme of things and are convenient for those who, as yet lack experience in the skills required to build your own or just don't have the time. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 The cost of the covering is now at an all time high, and this is for the norm. type coverings like Profilm ans Solarfilm. GC have alternatives at a lower price, but I have not used them yet. Cheers Edited By fly boy3 on 26/01/2012 19:30:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Hi FB3, My LMS used to only sell Solarfilm and Solartex which was the norm for iron on films (in my day), but they sell mostly Profilm and the like these days, which costs almost 3 times as much. And as I already have a good stock of Solarfilm it just goes to show how, out of touch I am when it comes to re stocking to replace what I have used. Nylon and dope are more expensive again as I've just found out with the Super 60 build, but the covering has been much more challenging and interesting than just opting for film. having re-discovered the delights of nylon and dope, I would definitely use it again when I build an appropriate model. You don't get this much enjoyment from putting an ARTF together, but you do get to fly more often. I think we are going off thread again, and should leave this one to Nigel and carry on in the chat thread. Cheers, Chris. Edited By Big Bandit on 26/01/2012 18:25:03Edited By Big Bandit on 26/01/2012 18:26:29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plummet Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 One thing to remember re. the cost of building from plans is that although you may pay lots for the wood etc., but you will usually have quite a bit left at the end. As you build, you build up stock and scrap bits, so that future builds can be cheaper. Plummet p.s. Spend more - it will get cheaper? Am I trying to convince myself? Just call it addictive, but with added balsa dust! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 The tailplane is actuay finished. The elevator needs to be joined with 1/4" dowel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 The tail plane is sheeted as per the other planes in the series (like the Kwik-fly series) with 1/16" sheet both sides and the elevators are 1/4" sheet balsa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 I had cut the fuz doublers when I was out and thought to myself "Why would they end at the REAR of F1?" When I got home I checked to see if what I thought was actualy correct - and yes it is. On the side view (I had drew in more solidly where I thought the end of the doubler ended) there is a difference between that and the top view where it clearly shows the end at the FRONT of F1 which is where I thought it should end - after I had thought and cut at the wrong place. My dilema is that now I have to recut another pair of side doublers but should they even end there or should they go all the way to the front of the fuselage sides? What do others think. My present thoughts is to take it to the front of F1 which would allow the sides to be pulled in better in front of this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 10, 2012 Author Share Posted February 10, 2012 The next question is . . . The material for the wing spar is not given so by default wood be balsa but I am not so sure if that would be strong enough. Does anyone have any knowledge of what should be used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 I will have a look at the build article for you , but to be honest PK did not give a lot of detail on the construction , it tended to be more focused on the development and flying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Hi NT, I'd be inclined to go for hard balsa or spruce, the wieght penalty isn't going to be that much. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 Hi nt Regarding the fus front end. It looks to me like F1 sits between the fuselage sides. In front of F1 there is a 1/4" or 3/8" sheet doubler that locks F1 from the front and behind there is a piece of 1.25" x 1/4" that locks F1 in from the rear. F1a is part of the hatch I am not sure which parts you have cut that may be wrong. Regarding the wings - go for spruce spars... MartynEdited By Martyn K on 10/02/2012 23:03:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Hi ,as I thought Phil makes no mention of any construction details in the Dec 1967 feature , he does comment that it’s of straight forward construction for any one with building experience . I think if there is no notation to indicate the use of spruce spars the balsa will be fine . if you think it needs extra strength I would add vertical webbing to make the classic D-box , be careful there’s no twist in the wing before you do this as there is no way you will get it out afterwards ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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