ntsmith Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 The part I cut wrong was the doubler which on the side view shows it ending at the rear of F1 and on the plan at the front edge. The latter is what I strongly suspect as being the correct place but I went for the first - at the rear so I now have to cut two more doublers Since it is a fairly low aspect ration wing with a partial span Dbox wing perhaps balsa wood be OK (pun inteneded)Posted by Martyn K on 10/02/2012 23:01:37: I am not sure which parts you have cut that may be wrong. Regarding the wings - go for spruce spars... Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 Having almost completed my Slik fly I have now started building the Bar-Fli in earnest. I have cut most of the wing ribs and some fuselage formers. Currently I am getting the doublers (which had to be recut) added to the fuselage sides which are shown here being cut to shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 In view of the Slik-fli turning out very nose heavy I have added an inch to the tail moment of the Bar-Fli. This should help somewhat towards the natural occurrence of these being nose heavy due to light equipment in general. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 It depends on the engine you intend to use , the Enya 60- 11 TV ,ST 60 ,Merco of that era only weighed 12-13 oz without silencer and made only about .9-1.0 bhp so a O.S. 46 AX or 55AX will make a good stand-in but with more poke ! How about this one next !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 ooohh - I haven't seen that before, I like it. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Its an interesting thought but a retro build with a model that had a 10cc engine but fitted with a .46 just doesn't seem to equate. Guess I will stick with the 10cc engine. The Firefly is a model I have completely forgot. Does anyone do the plans? I have plans for the KwiK-Fli II and III which I am tempted but this looks a possible alternative IF I can get plans. Certainly would be nice to have a look at. Posted by jeff2wings on 19/02/2012 20:28:33: It depends on the engine you intend to use , the Enya 60- 11 TV ,ST 60 ,Merco of that era only weighed 12-13 oz without silencer and made only about .9-1.0 bhp so a O.S. 46 AX or 55AX will make a good stand-in but with more poke ! How about this one next !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Well, it appears to have been published in RCM&E but I can't find it in the X list. Can you let me know what month/year it was published please? Thanks Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff2wings Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 It was published in April 1972 RCM&E as RC1127 (X) you will need to be good with a penknife as it has a “ interesting” construction of the fuselage .I agree with putting an suitable engine in these classic models , my mustfire has a Merco 61 in it , as will my swinger II , dactyl and vertigo ! (when they get built LOL !!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 I agree - I am also looking forward to this - it also looks like a kwik fli 3 may be joining the fold so we will have a full house. I used to think that the Bar Fli was ugly sister of the two (fli) machines in vogue at the time. Time is a great corrector of views though Martyn THE BAR-FLI WAS THE UGLY SISTER. HMM Beauty must be in the eye of the beholder as I always thought it the best. Its the simplicity of the design and built for the purpose and at the end a really beautiful model. Certainly in comparison with todays modern aerobatic things ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 Now I actualy have got a fuselage to work on! Mind you I aint got no wings yet ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 BTW. If I get this finished in time I have the plans for a Kwik-Fli II and III Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 I now have the firewall mounted as well as all the fuz underside sheeting done. The engine mount is fitted as well. Now trying to do some of the rear top of the fuz but am waiting for some 1/2" sheet to be delivered. I orderd some 3/4" sheet from Al's Models which will be used for the cockpit and forward of the cockpit sheeting. I will hollow the block out which is different to the slick-fli which I just used 3/16" sheet but with this bulbous cockpit I think this may be easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I know its 2D and I think I can see the best part of a 600mm rule, but that fus looks tiny.. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 It aint big, thats for sure. Its got 15mm added on its tail moment to compensate for lighter engine too! I cant believe this has supposed to have 1" under each tip for dihedral. Can anyone confirm? I would have guessed at about an inch under ONE tip, but thats a guess. I want to be sure before the halfs are joined which is where I am at present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Have got the wings joined. I used some 1/16" ply dihedral braces although none are shown on the plan. If not using them the alternative would be to splice the spars and use fibre glass bandage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 The design calls for 1" balsa block tips but I have kept the tips light so far. There is only one servo located centrally and the sheeting will not be 100% over the surface. It wouldn't be too easy to access the bellcranks either if that were done. I am contemplating a 1/8" sheet and gussets but the dissadvantage that out weighs the weight benefit is that the tips are far less durable. Block or sheet is the question? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Block.... Get some nice light block or laminate from 1/2" sheet. Much more durable and I think it actually looks better. If you are not going for fully sheeted wings, why not build some access hatches? Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Dihedral seems a case of personal preference. I've not built or flown a Bar-Fli, but the Altair that I'm building suggests using anywhere between 1 1/4 and 2 1/2" per side depending on how you want it to fly. A lot of tapered wings were built with the top surface flat, so that would have given 1/2-1" under each side. I think a lot of it is down to what looks right. As for the tips, I like soft balsa block with a thin ply core for knock resistance, hollowed out on one tip to help balance the exhaust. The weight really is negligeable compared to built up ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I am a massive convert to blue foam for things like this, a layer of 25gsm cloth very easy to work and extremely light, what's more it is pretty ding proof. I get my styrofoam from Sheffield Insulations Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Apparently a Merco 61 would have weighed in at 12.7oz and my SC52 is 19oz. I'm glad to have found out as it would ended up decidedly nose heavy. Not sure about using any kind of "quick finish" now like Oracover as it would make maters worse. Solartex at minimum but perhaps this is goind to be a forced Nylon and dope job ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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