Fun Cub or Wot 4 foam e?

[Bob Moore]

Having decided because of reliability electric is the way to go, some of my IC's are going on e bay when the weather improves and I fancy a foamie build while this rubbish weather continues.

But the question is Fun Cub (as a kit) of the almost RTF Wot 4 foamie. I've been watching threads on here for a good while and people rave about the Fun Cub, whereas I've seen a few negative things here and there about the Wot. (And I have an IC Wot 4 anyway?)

 

They look very different anyway, but any views on big plusses and minuses about either please?

 

And ruggedness (or fragility) of both?

 

From what I've read there are much cheaper ways of fitting the electrics than buying the recommended ready made power train for the Fun Cub (I'm pretty much decided I guess) but a couple of questions:

 

As I already have a bunch of spare servos and a 35Mhz receiver kicking about is there any reason why I shouldn't use standard size HiTec servos for all rather than the smaller ones for ailerons and was it throttle in the Fun Cub. Apart from weight that is. ie will it be too big a cut out?

 

My other leccies are only small. A little Depron GC Edge (great fun) and Orion leccy glider. Both use 2s 1000mA batteries so I only have a tiddly little £5 charger. I'm guessing this won't be man enough for 3s 2000mA + batteries, so would this fairly inexpensive charger be good enough. I don't really want to shell out £40 for a charger. As it is a couple of decent suitable Lipos will bump up my cost quite a bit.

 

Any advice welcome.

 

ta v much.

 

PS A lot of this change to leccy has been brought about by the realisation that most if not all of my major rebuilds have been caused by blooming IC engine failures at critical moments. Plus the fact I've been having more fun with a £15 leccy (which flies when you want it to) rather than blooming IC's that run great at home, but as soon as you get to a field won't play ball. And I suppose, to an extent, almost chopping off my thumb tuning a new (troublesome) Irvine. (OK I know leccies are dangerous too.)

 

 

[Seamus O'Leprosy]

That charger is spot on I have the dual 12v/220v version for a couple of years without problems.

As for the choice of models the wot 4 is more sprightly the Cub with flaps is great for STOLing and slow flying also you can use the supplied towing point to aerotow small gliders.

[Steve W-O]

Funcub wins hands down in nearly every respect, apart from the difference in flying.

 

My Funcub was cheaper than the wot4foame by the time I had replaced all the junk in the wot4foame.

 

I have two of those B6 chargers, they are both great.

[Steve Hargreaves - Moderator]

No experience of the FunCub so can't help you there Bob but I would just comment that 35MHz & electric sometimes don't get on...I have several leccy models which are fine on 35MHz & I have one that I can't fly on 35MHz so its a bit of a mixed picture....

 

A good ground check is required before committing aviation.....

[Bob Moore]

Thanks for the comments re charger and model . I'm pretty much decided on the Fun Cub I must say.

 

Touch wood I've had no probs with my 35 Mhz and leccy. In both the ESC is as far away as possible from the rx. The Orion has thermalled almost out of sight and behaved itself. I'll certainly bear it in mind though and do a thorough check.

[Stephen Grigg]

There is NO comparison,the Fun Cub everytime.mine is getting on for 2 years old loads of use and never crashed.Ive watched 2 foamie Wot 4 written off on maiden flights because of failures due to poor quality,they were both replaced by dealers.

[Bob Moore]

Thanks Stephen. I must say I've watched your fun with Fun Cub and seen some pretty bad stuff written about the Wottie. Am I right in thinking it needs a big chunk of lead up front too?

 

Fun Cub it will be, maybe sometime later it will get a super paint jobbie too! There are some amazing YouTube clips of the full size Super Cub landing in outrageous places. No doubt you've seen them.

[Towlie]

Has to be the Fun Cub Bob, I was in the same quandary as you just over a year ago couldnt decided between the two but so glad I went for the Cub.

 

Not only is it still flying, longer than many of the foamy wot4's but it still puts a smile on my face when flying it even in yesterdays freezing weather !

 

 

[Rusty C]

Fun cub for sure! I ordered a wot 4 artf e balsa for wheelspin and to my horror I found a foamie in the box

The model was going back no matter what but I did take the chance to look round it. I have to say the quality is pretty poor in respects to esc, servos and the hardware aint great also. One major flaw is the rudder tail wheel assembly very weak!

 

I hear nothing but praise for the multiplex stuff, think you would be safer with that bud

 

Rusty

[Bob Moore]

rudder tail wheel assembly very weak!

 

I read that in the long thread on the foam Wot.

 

 

I've already phoned my local man for his price on a Super Cub!

 

 

[Rusty C]

Yeah the foamie is not to great, I have read a good few have been lost due to suspected esc failures also...... stay clear.

 

Good luck on your model hunt

 

Cheers

 

rusty

[Codename-John]

my wot 4 foam e is great...............

 

 

 

now ive replaced all 4 servo`s, esc, motor and taped all the hinges

 

 

 

[Simon Chambers]

Posted by Bob Moore on 30/01/2012 14:54:06:

My other leccies are only small. A little Depron GC Edge (great fun) and Orion leccy glider. Both use 2s 1000mA batteries so I only have a tiddly little £5 charger. I'm guessing this won't be man enough for 3s 2000mA + batteries, so would this fairly inexpensive charger be good enough. I don't really want to shell out £40 for a charger. As it is a couple of decent suitable Lipos will bump up my cost quite a bit.

 

 

 

 

 

R.e. the charger. AVOID! AVOID!! AVOID!!!

 

I did leave a review on GiantCod explaining on the problems that the charger has, but GiantCod have recently, very kindly deleted my review...

 

However in a nut shell, the iMax B6 that I received from GiantCod was counterfeit. This is easily found by the lack of the genuine hologram as can be seen here.

 

Now what's the problem with that if they both work the same?

 

Well the problem is that they don't! One of the biggest issues is that when the iMax was ripped off, they didn't choose the correct specification of components - in particular the resistors that are used to measure the LiPo balance voltage are not a good enough tolerance. Not only this, they don't calibrate the balance port in the factory. On mine, charging a 3S pack, it massively overcharged one cell, while leave another too low - 4.08v, 4.27v, 4.18v. Hence not only is this a safety risk, it will also shorten the life of your lipos. Note that charger cell voltages will display ok (i.e. all ~4.20v), as that's the voltage it thinks that it is at.This problem is well documented on rc-groups and can be fixed with a lot of farting around. One way is to replace the voltage divider resistors with correct tolerance components, or alternatively hacking the firmware to allow the recalibration to be overridden and done again with a calibrated voltage source on the balance connectors. Like I said, a lot of messing about even when you know what your doing.

 

Now I bought mine mid last year, and GiantCod may now be stocking genuine ones.

 

Ironically iMax (and other Chinese charger manufacturers) actually has ripped off a US charger design - which if anyone is wondering why a lot of chargers menu systems are exactly the same. However when they ripped it off originally, they did choose correct spec parts.

 

If you do buy (or already bought) one, HobbyKing's boss has helpfully produced a video to show how to spot the difference:

 Imax B6 Charger - HobbyKing Product Review

 

Hope this helps (before you damage your Li-Po's or something else)!

 

Cheers,

Si.

 

 

 

Edited By Simon Chambers on 30/01/2012 22:49:27

Edited By Simon Chambers on 30/01/2012 22:50:47

[Steve W-O]

Simon, as you say, well documented.

 

I have mentioned this before, and also mentioned that both mine (one is black and one is blue, and as I paid about £14 each, almost certainly not "genuine) the voltage is within 1/100 volt of what is dis[played.

 

I have not checked the tolerance of the resistors, but as they are doing the right job I don't need to.

 

Not saying all will be so lucky, but it does seem that many are OK

[Bob Moore]

Thanks for the warning Simon. I'll certainly check mine out carefully when I order one.

[Bob Moore]

Oh dear, I just received the Imax from GC and following your advice Simon and after watching the HK video figured I'd check if it was a fake before using it.

 

I undid the 4 screws at each end of the case (which weren't very well secured) and tried to slide the pcb out. It seems the only way to remove it. In doing so I snapped off 3 of the 4 push switches. It is a fake. But of course with snapped off switches I can't return it .

The switches will sit in the holes so the unit is useable , but needs a bit of tape over them to stop them falling out. Maybe I should have tested it first?

 

Anyhow one last question. I only have small 2s lipos 1000 mA and 800 mA and two small chargers. To charged those I just plug in the small while rectangular plug into a socket.

 

This charger says to connect in balance charger programme I plug in the socket and plug the two output leads into another two banana sockets. Am I reading this right. I don't want to blow anything up!

[Allan Bowker]

Being a WOT fan I think you should go for the Fun Cub.

 

The WOT 4 Foam-e is poor on quality and doesn't work out economically in comparison to the Multiplex Fun Cub.

[Towlie]

Hi Bob,

 

Sorry to hear about the charger, sounds like at least its still usable.

 

Yes you are right in order to balance charge you need to plug in both the small white plug and the also the batteries output leads.

This is different to the cheap balance chargers that come with RTF stuff that just need the balance plug to charge.

 

Have you decided what your getting yet plane wise ?

[Frank Skilbeck]

Posted by Bob Moore on 07/02/2012 12:14:49:

 

This charger says to connect in balance charger programme I plug in the socket and plug the two output leads into another two banana sockets. Am I reading this right. I don't want to blow anything up!

Bob - Yes the small fixed rate chargers actually charge through the balance plug, but the larger chargers which can push out more amps charge through the main leads and balance through the balance socket.. If it the standard charger software (I have a Turnigy) then if you just plug the balance plug in it won't do anything (it may say bad connection), if you just plug the main leads into the battery it will charge but won't balance, my one also alerts you if you plug the battery in the wrong way round and if you select the wrong number of cell, but won't detect selecting wrong cell type.

[Bob Moore]

Thanks for the info.

 

Model wise, I decided to convert my IC engined Wot 4. So I ordered the bits and pieces to do that. Cheaper in the long run than buying a new model, though maybe not as much fun as getting a Fun Cub.

 

Motor details etc in this thread.

 

I stupidly forgot the mounting kit for the motor, I thought it came with it. Just phoned GC and mentioned that their Imax 's are fake, I don't suppose they care really?

 

 

 

 

[Towlie]

Ah I love my Wot4 its a great hack model for the winter, even if it is looking abit worse for wear with its patched up film lol !

 

In regards to the charger I think giant Cod should care and surely trading standards would be interested ?

 

As far as I see it the charger is not fit for purpose anyway and is the RC equivalent of selling knocked of iPads etc .

 

Also it maybe worth mentioning this thread as I for one would rather go to either my LMC or HK than risk buying fake that doesn't even work as it should and I definitely wouldn't buy again from them.

 

I've got say my current charger a Pro-Peak Sigma II EQ AC/DC Balance Charger is fantastic, does 1-6 cell lipos and runs off either Dc or AC perfect it did cost about £50 though but having seen a lipo explode I am willing to pay a little more just my 2p though.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bob Moore]

Not my best day today. Mostly I've had no problems with GC and the charger does appear to function. I'm testing it first with a small 1000mA 2s lipo and the functions seem ok. Time will tell if it has made a successful balanced charge. I will try the 3300mA 4s after this.

 

One of the other items I ordered was an 80 amp esc. No programming instructions came with it and an online search revealed others had probs finding them too. Phoned GC and they pointed me in the direction of some mis titled instructions in the documention in their forum. (I hope they are right?) Judging by the comments posted a number of people have had probs programming them? Maybe it's a mistake at times to buy cheap. Or at least do a fair bit of googling and research before spending the dosh.

[Simon Chambers]

Sorry to hear that Giantcod are still shipping fakes. They have no excuss really, I wrote a review on there a good year ago - which they removed a few months ago when they restocked the iMax's. It has smashed any trust I have with Giantcod and I will now only use them for really cheap stuff, such as servos, little E-Max motors and other things that haven't been faked yet.

 

As I said before, the problem I had with mine was that the balance ports voltage measurements were out of wack. It involves a lot of fiddling to get them calibrated - and if you don't really know what your doing, its not worth it. If you do charge your 4S, check the voltage with a volt meter between the voltage taps on the balance connector (be very careful not to short two together). Or use a Li-Po battery checker to check the cell voltages. The voltages should be really be matched to within +/- 0.02v - and no cell should be over 4.21v. You may find that some of the balance ports are within spec - or that the cloners have finally realised they need to calibrate these before shipping (I guess unlikely). Be warned, if the cells are overcharged past 4.25v continuously, it will shorten the live of the pack. If overcharge above 4.3v, your really risk killing the pack or worse...

 

Incidently, from what I've read on rc-groups, the iMax chargers are a rip-off of the Korean Bantam charges - even down to the PCB layout being the same. The problem is that if manufacturers get stuff made in China, its too easy to pay one of the factory workers a bit of cash for the CAM files and firmware, then create your own knock off. The biggest problem is when the knock-off gets knocked off, as what has happened with the iMax clones - with badly specified components used.

 

If you want to read about this happening on the larger scale, read about the Capacitor problems of 2000/2001. A much bigger problem than the Year 2000 bug ever was, and is still on going. Its part of the reason why modern electronics have such a bad name for reliability. The capacitors most affected were used in stabilising power supplies - creating failing equipment or erratic operation.

Edited By Simon Chambers on 07/02/2012 15:55:30

Edited By Simon Chambers on 07/02/2012 15:56:08

[Devon Flyer]

Am I the only person in the country who has had no problems, at all, with a foamie WOT4?

Hundreds of flights and one crash.

Still going strong and gets taken every time I go to the field.

On personal experience , I would recommend one to anybody.

[Bob Moore]

@Simon Chambers

The voltages should be really be matched to within +/- 0.02v - and no cell should be over 4.21v.

 

Think I figured out vaguely how to use the charger. It seems to function ok. (so far.) I've had to put blobs of silicon on the 4 switch buttons to stop them falling out! Not very pretty but at least it works. (As said taking the Imax apart to see if it is fake will damage it. I know.)

 

Result of my test with the 1000mA 2s charging at 0.1A on balanced charge. End voltages are 4.15v and 4.19v so not quite within your tolerances Simon? Of course that's not what the charger 'display' said they were at though! It said they were the same.

 

You mention that's it's possible to fiddle them to get them right? I'm pretty adept with a test meter and soldering iron. (City and Guilds Electronic Servicing many many years ago.) What is involved? Are there trimmers (ie small pots to adjust) or does it come down to swapping out of tolerance resistors?

 

I guess I'll wait anyway and see the results tomorrow when I charge the new 3300 mA 4s that I also just bought for my leccy conversion. See how far the cells are on 4s.