Bob Cotsford Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 For the rudder lamp holder I'd still go with ali tubing squashed to section, the flange part attaching it to the rudder either several coats of hi-build or epoxy and microballoons, alternatively litho. I really do admire your dedication, patience and workmanship Danny, I find my patience only goes as far as the 6 foot and squinting standard. When I've gone further in the past the first hangar rash has left me close to tears so no more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 Hi Bob, I just can't help myself I need therapy........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Posted by Danny Fenton on 22/11/2012 17:56:58: Danny Hi Danny A question about this months RCM&E. I can see how your vacuum board works - looks OK (neat) and I suspect that perforated hardboard would probably be OK for the floor of the tool. However, I am struggling to see from the photo and from RCM&E just how the frame with plastic is held. Does the plastic go under the frame or over it and does the frame need to be taller than the plugs within the frame? How is it sealed? Hope that's not a too stoopid question.. Thanks - I am enjoying watching a craftsman at work Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 Hi Martyn, no ask away, you can bet somebody else is thinking the same thing. Let me get the rest of the pics and put them in my album, that might help... Give me thirty mins? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Thanks Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 Do these help at all Martyn? Basically th frame does not need to be thicker than the thing you are molding, you stick the frame under the grille until it sags dramatically, PETG seems to be odd in that it sags, shrinks then sags again, then press it down over the plug in one swoop it stretches and when the frame presses against the box the suction from the vacuum takes over. Heres a video of me making a spinner for the ill fated TN Spitfire: Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 18/01/2013 16:24:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 When I eventually build a Spitfire (dreams dreams dreams!) I would like to vacuum form spinners, nicer to have the right colour than a metal one (unless the full size had metal). CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 Well CS there is a drawback with using vacformed spinners your oily's wont like em, all those vibrations will probably throw it, and you definitely couldn't use a starter on it, they are not strong enough for that. You could make a mold and do them in glass, they will then take a starter as long as you aren't too brutal. It is allowed to paint metal spinners you know Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 I'm sure it would be alright with thicker plastic, like the stuff used for Irvine spinners, maybe a metal backplate and flick starting. Something to try in the future. CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Many Thanks Danny 100% clear now... (pun not intended). In fact the video is amazing - fantastic Martyn Edited By Martyn K on 18/01/2013 17:13:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 Thanks Martyn, are you going to have a go? its fairly easy, and a great skill to have at your disposal. I think a video shows more than words or still pictures can. Any probs give us a shout Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Hi Danny I definitely need a vaccum box, if nothing else, just to do canopies. It would be nice to make one big enough for a moulded wing though, a small one to start with though. You make it look very easy. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 Hi Martyn, it is fairly easy, and its like mixing paint colors you cannot teach it by explanation alone you have to experiment and just waste some plastic and have a go. Most folks don't get the plastic hot enough, there again on the wing tip lights I learned that you can get the plastic too hot. Also those plugs for the landing light only survived being used twice, the heat ruined the surface finish and that was balsa witha coat of resin and light cloth. A decent plug needs to be very hard. Also I use a much heavier material than most, if you look a an original Brian Taylor formed canopy, I bet it will be nearly 1mm thick, the Traplet versions are only 1/2 to 2/3 that (or they were the last one I bought a couple of years ago.) I must also say thanks to Chris Bott for making the plastic sheet frames, sort of a joint effort Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 I hope Bob isn't too upset at me not quite following his suggestion, I feel the taper of the light is to much for a tube, and the shape of the plinth is not so round. Anyway this is how I chose to tackle the plinth. .3 Lith plate folded around the trailing edge, then two pieces of balsa to set the distance to the plasticard former. All was infilled with P-38 (Bondo'ish stuff) and sanded to shape. The plinth can be slipped off to work on it. But will be secured before painting. By making the light assembly and plinth seperate, the plinth can be painted with the airframe and the light fitted afterwards. Just need to sort the main body out now. I made the first one from layers of plasticard and then enveloped a 5mm led in plasticine with the inetention of making a mold. That didn't work out and went in the bin. Will try again this time using P-38 instead of plasticine and drop the molding idea. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 A bit more: a few bits of very fiddly styrene, and the end of an LED Buried in P-38 Shaped Painted with a combination of gloss black and silver, imo never use pure black or pure white on a scale model. The lens is masked with artist paint mask, hope its protected it Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Trim tabs next..... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Nice one Danny, the paint mask looks to have worked well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I cannot believe that this is not contest spec, it's wonderful Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 hi Bob, I had never tried the artist mask stuff before for humbrol enamels and wasnt sure it would work, as you can see it worked fine. the stuff is like liquid latex. Will use it again thats for sure. Hi Martyn, I hope some of it is to a good enough standard to compete, but unfortunately all of the work on this model will be let down by the undercarriage, but it is great practice. I am really pleased people think my work is up to scratch, really chuffed in fact. thx Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Started looking at the trim tab: A smear of filler on the one side should hide the seam. It is hinged and could be preset but probably play safe and leave it straight Just the operating gubbins to do now, that should be a bundle of laughs Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 Beautiful! I think it is easily competition worthy, Danny is just being modest! It is brillliant! I am of the opinion that when in the air is when it should look most scale, so the wheels will be up so I don't care what's hidden! CS PS. Perhaps improved by the same type of power source used by the full size, oh sorry, shut up my inner four strokey self! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 thanks CS the guys that compete are extremely good at creating miniature versions of the full size, I am under no illusions that I still have lots to learn, but thanks for yor kind comments it really is appreciated. As for the four stroke, it will have one..... or at least 101db of Merlin, plus a 20" three blader, I will bring it along to Greenacres and let you hear it, even if it isn't flyable. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 I've read through the whole thread on RCSB, brilliant. My favourite part of building is probably the early stages, seeing it quickly shape up. Sadly I cannot get to Greenacres as much as I would like to, going to Rougham or North Weald? The speakers are excellent on the ground and taxying, really good, but in the air I am not that impressed (don't be put off though, much better than the usual whine of an electric motor). I wish you could listen to our Saito 45s on a Wot 4 e (but not 'e'!), close your eyes and it is a full size (really, it is!), mind blowing sound! I personally also think that the full size had a real internal combustion engine so to be scale the model should too, but let's not discuss that and just admire the progress of your wonderful Hurricane and look in awe as she sets off to the skies those brave young lads fought in for our country. Who cares what's up front! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 23, 2013 Author Share Posted January 23, 2013 Thats a shame you cannot make Greenacres CS its a great weekend. I agree that the airbourne sound is not deafening, but I would argue that the full size is not as loud as an ic. Also I have not seen anybody else use the prop sound system combination I am, so we will see. I have flown with John Ranson and Bob Partington so know full well how it sounds in the air. Johns Spitfire doing a low beatup with that Merlin was great. As you may know John helped design the Thomas Benedini sound system. See if you can find a video of Pete Nichols Corsair on Youtube, its impressive even though it uses the old sound file. I agree though that it doesn't matter what powers the model, as long as its scale. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 It will be interesting to see how your set up works, hopefully well. I have seen this video by John Ranson. The planes are beautiful, that BT Spitty is particularly lovely (although I would build a MKII, P7350, flew with Concorde G-BOAA). But the sound- and I have heard them for real too- is good on the ground and taxying but in the air I don't feel it really. The Corsair is the best in that vid but I would use a four stroke, and experiment with props to get the best sound from the engine. That little 45s is amazing on a 12x5! But anyway, I'll shut up and let you get on, you need to fly this thing and get onto that 83" Spitfire which I want you to build (and dream that you would try a Petrol engine on that, pretty please?!) Any good scale model is brilliant whatever is up front. CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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