Chris Bott - Moderator Posted January 23, 2013 Share Posted January 23, 2013 For what it's worth I've watched a few full size warbird displays, they are nice and noisy on a nice low pass but in the distance of the circuit, hardly a sound can be heard. As for the sound, the whine of the prop tips and the whistle of the supercharger combined with the smooth throb of 12 cylinders in perfect harmony is absolutely nothing like a model 4st. Anyway I think you've already mentioned that this is off topic. Let's get back to Dannys superb modelling. Each to their own, constant posts on lots of forums saying the same tired old thing are not helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3bears Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Danny, you asked about the left/right switch on the two landing lights. This would be to achieve redundancy - landing light bulbs have a short life, so it's nice to switch in the other when the first fails. If both were on together, both would be likely to fail at about the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Hi 3bears, that is an angle I have never considered, you could well be right lol. There was me looking for some deep and complex reason, it could be as simple as reliability. Well done and thanks Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookson Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Posted by 3bears on 25/01/2013 04:13:05: Danny, you asked about the left/right switch on the two landing lights. This would be to achieve redundancy - landing light bulbs have a short life, so it's nice to switch in the other when the first fails. If both were on together, both would be likely to fail at about the same time I had heard or read somewhere recently that the reason for the left right light was, they were about 750W each, the onboard generator/dynamo could only support one light & it was pilot preference as to which one they used ?? Edited By Cookson on 25/01/2013 12:51:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Hi Cookson, thats an interesting thought too, it certainly sounds feasible. It is strange that most warplanes of that period had only the single light, and in fact the Spitfires single lamp was dropped very early on. I had heard something it might be to do with the direction of the circuit being flown. The lamp is pivoted and can be postitoned from within the cockpit, no sure why that would be useful either. I might post something on the Warbird Information Exchange website, they are a clever bunch. Any other thoughts? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Just found this which means I will have to color my lens blue. This picture was taken by Peter Vacher and is of R4118.... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Don't reach for that blue paint yet! These two snaps are from a Hurricane I saw at Duxford last year. And this one just has the light in the extreme top left, it appears to be clear glass. Do these help or hinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 hi, each Hurricane is slightly different, this is where you have to go with your specific subject.... however the photos on the previous pages are also R4118 and the lens is clear. so when did it wear a blue lens? This is part of the problem with scale competition, you not only have to document your prototype but also the date or period you are concentrating on. So you are quite right to say hold on before painting it Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 I thought it would hinder more than help. I imagine in war time the fitters were whipping bits off one and shoving them on another airframe regularly. As long as it worked and fitted/could be made to fit, I'm sure no-one cared. This can only make it harder for exact scale modelling, photos taken in one session will conflict with others taken earlier or later, that is if the plane managed to survive long enough to have two photo sessions. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 You have got it, thats what makes it even more challenging. The MkI Hurricane I am modelling R4118 has a MkII Hurricane tailwheel. I don't know why, obviously a MkI shouldn't have one but the one I am doing does. If you look closely at the rear lamp on the rudder, there are a myriad of different versions of that. Each one is subteley different. I think it comes down to the restorer and the parts they have to re-manufacture or adapt from perhaps a different airframe. So not only do you need good photographs but good photographs of your exact subject. It really is a minefield. Unfortunately this is why we don't see some of the really rare designs do well in competition. Finished off the rudder tab, well except for some rivet detail which will come later. Looking forward to that, sad or what..... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Mmm, lights! Lovely job there! I enjoy searching how different airframes have unique features. I know that Concorde G-BOAG has different batteries to the rest for example. When I build a Spitfire (one day!) it will be P7350, a MkII so it will be enjoyable to see what features she has, maybe see the full size which is still flying. CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Sounds good CS, would you model her as she is now, all restored and pristine (and available to photograph) or as she was at some point during the war? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Hi CS thx, don't tell me you are fed up of lights, around the dinner table at RCM&E weekend last year it was suggested that I write a book "Landing lights I have known" I think all present were trying to say something..... Anyway, lights it is Here is the next "quest" simple one this time... Hardest bit is working out the size...... Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 25/01/2013 16:54:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 25/01/2013 16:50:55: Sounds good CS, would you model her as she is now, all restored and pristine (and available to photograph) or as she was at some point during the war? Not sure yet, if I modelled her during the war then some little imperfections could be called weathering! Probably in modern day times so I could photo the full size, but she is put in lots of different liveries. Here are some examples. XT-D EB-G And in a particularly good shot(!), UO-T And there are many more! I'd probably do whatever scheme she happens to be in at the time, but maybe the scheme above as she is with Concorde but I can't find many pictures of her in that scheme, so most likely in scheme at time of build (ie, ages away!). But I have a long time to think it through and plan it, I still don't know what Spit to build, Taylor, TN, own design (maddest option), no idea! Too early to start a thread I think, or is it... Anyway, back on topic! No Danny, I like the lights! I wouldn't bother making them work personally because my trusty eye would not see them as she is flying, but watching you make everything work is awe inspiring and fantastic so carry on! I could never make a model as good as yours! That one just a little dolls house bulb I reckon (if it is the right colour) for that one, with an acetate semi circle as the cover and balsa sanded down to the right size for the bit around, or Litho plate (whatever that is!). Phew, long post! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Semi sphere, sorry! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Thanks CS you are pretty close to my thoughts on the light, if you lookm carefully you can see that the plate is hinged at the front, this hinges upwards and forwards to allow acces to the bulb I guess. Anyway I think lith for the cover, but it has a flange turned where it meets the lens cover, so that will need forming over a piece of ply with a suitable hole. The lens as you say can be plung molded over an led I reckon as in this months mag. If you look atthe plate again you will see it is proud of the surface of the aircraft so will need packing slightly. Also the hinge at the front needs to be simulated. There are a few ways to do this but in this instance I favour styrene rod lightly scored to give the impression of segments. Realised I have forgotten the elevator tabs, so will rattle those out first. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Danny, Which filler do you use? On the trim tabs shown you have the merest hint of filler. Most of the ones I've got require two parts to be mixed and when I only need a pea amount in total, the ratios are difficult to measure. I'm talking about P38 which is obviously designed to be used in much greater quantities. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 Hi I use P-38 auto filler, its great stuff, but as its polyester based it does tend to dry a bit quick. If you play with mixes a bit you will soon realise that it doesn't need anywhere near the precision when mixing as epoxy. Really the catalyst just acts like a kicker and starts the reaction. I use a blob about the size of a sugar cube, and then a hint of the red catalyst. This gives maybe 5 minutes to get on with applying the stuff. I saw Dave Platt using pallete knives to mix and apply resin/fillers etc, and bought a couple, they really are first class for quickly mixing and accurately applying filler. I tend to use the number 26 most of the time. Hope that helps? Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 26/01/2013 09:26:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Marvellous, thanks. I too need small amounts but always ended up wasting far more than I'd used. I'll try your method, I do like P38 as a filler. For larger areas I've used Bucks Composites Super Lightweight filler mixed with normal epoxy glue, thinned with methanol. Again, no good for the small quantites required most of the time. I'll try a pallete knife though, its got to be better than old credit cards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Nearly done with the rear end Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Scroll up the page to see how this one should look and my rendition. Just need to work on the clarity of the lens, and then i can sign this light off. One light left to do and it had to wait until I had demolished the Quality Street Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwin van der Maat Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hi Danny, Very realistic built. Nice how you create and add the details. Best regards, Edwin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hi Edwin great to see you Been doing a bit more, the final light is done all but the detailing....... Don't ask how its made, nor how the Quality Street was utilised, but it worked sweetly All will be revealed in a mag near you.... (unless I get the boot of course.. Might have to take a look at the sliding canopy next now this should be fun Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 Mmm can a person have more fun so cheaply? A bit of lith and some Zap Goo and I am content.....for hours.....and hours....and hours...... Only six short sections to do, then the same again on the inside....... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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