Jump to content

2013 Mass Build - general chat thread


Recommended Posts

Advert


It was the obvious reason Martin, but I was so convinced that it was on plan It didn't sink in. I was sort of convincing myself that it might be a characteristic of the wing and too be honest, conditions had been so rough each time I'd flown it that I was finding it hard to read what was really happening. We're off holidaying tomorrow for a couple of weeks, but when we come back I'll put some effort into finishing the Seafang because I'm curious to see how the flat wing works with a sharp taper, particularly if this apparent immunity to tip stalling still applies in a case like that.

Incidentally, also tonight James and I flew the HK Spitfire 24 for the first rime. Absolutely blown away with it, it's a brilliant flyer and looks very scale in the air, with a good turn of speed. Most impressed. There was an issue with the flap hinges on the first few but HK have modified them and sent a replacement flap set foc before we flew it. Best foamy Spit I've seen so far by some margin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure it matters Mike, but I always put the hooks on the mounting surface and the fluffy stuff on the Battery. I like best to use stick on Velcro pads with the Velcro tie as well, but if the battery is in a secure position the tie is ok on it's own. In the Tucano I've got both, in the HK Spit 24, just the tie.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes - I'm a fluffy bit on the battery man as well - not sure I did that for any sensible reason such as Chris has cited - but once of course you make the decision you have "a convention" established so have to stick to it.

BEB

PS Geddit? "Stick to it" Hahaha! Ok its not that good - but it made me laugh. I have a very low humour threashold!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once you've established best practice it's absolutely crucial that you always adhere to it, getting things the wrong way around is an absolute guarantee that you're going to come unstuck. Getting it wrong with bits of fluff has caused me untold problems in my life, so you've clearly got to be very careful where you stick your hooks. So my wife keeps telling me and she's always right (she tells me). Did Pete say he felt a poll coming on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

I'm still plodding on with mine, nearing completetion though! I had a question about spinners, I've just bought one of these when it suddeny occured to me maybe I need a specific spinner for electric use, I've never built an electric 'plane before so it isn't something I've ever considered. Whats the consensus on these things?

And a quickie for Phil, where did you get your lovely three blade prop and spinner from?

r.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure it's ok Robin, though my personal preference is the Irvine type with aluminium back plate, which is better engineered. Also it gives you a fixed position relative to the front of the cowl, whereas with the type you illustrate it varies with the thickness of the propeller. I've found that to be a problem sometimes.

Edited By Colin Leighfield on 03/07/2013 08:19:04

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys, Li-PO question. I have just charged 3s 3000 and 3s 3600 for the 1st time and I notice that the batteries arrive with about 2/3 charge so they only take 1/3 charge before full. Is that normal?

I have 4 lipo's and I have just changed the connectors to XT60 - no probs but I note a large variation in o/d of the wires yet they are all 10AWG? Normal?

Mike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mike, yes it is quite normal for a LiPo to arrive charged up to what is called a "storage charge". You do know that a LiPo should not be taken below 3.3v per cell? So for a 3S LiPo you should not really take the voltage lower than 9.9v without risk of some damage to the battery or loss of capacity.

The wire might vary slighly depending on the manufacturer, the C rating of the battery may also be considered by the manufacturer, the higher the C rating the more current can be supplied and the thicker the wire should be.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by Robin Kearney on 03/07/2013 07:46:27:

Hi Guys,

And a quickie for Phil, where did you get your lovely three blade prop and spinner from?

r.

Hi Robin 1st the spinner looks good as for mine they are

These

and the props are

These

the spinner is good but you will need to make a slight mod to the back plate to fit those props and get a spinner adaptor nut with a thread to match your prop driver. the one I used for the Turnigy ntm propdrive 35 series motor with bolt on prop driver is this one it replaces the domed nut on the prop driver to take the 4mm spinner spinner screw

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Wolston, I have just finished charging two packs, the charger terminated the process when the pack voltage reached 12.6V. The second pack never quite reached this voltage (12.49V) so I terminated the charge when the charge current was almost at zero. Is this explained by the end charge pack voltage tolerance between packs or should I have left the charge to run?

The charger I am using is an Accucell-6. I note there is an input for a 'temperature sensor' does anybody know what this is for?

Mike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike if you were balance charging you really should have left it, it can take the charger quite a while to balance a Lipo - especially first time out!

The charger won't over charge the battery (or at least it shouldn't if its working probably!) so you are safe to left it working.

Having said that you shouldn't really leave it unsupervised. I tend to do all my charging whilst I'm pottering around the workshop doing other things - so I can at least keep an eye on it - just in case anything did ever "go wrong".

BEB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks BEB. Should I put the pack back on charge so the 'balancing' process can finish?. I terminated the charge after about 1 hour with nothing much happening - the charge current was hunting from zero to 0.1A and the pack voltage was 'up and down' by a few mV but never looked like achieving 12.6V. It was the pack's first charge. C rating was 3.6A, I was charging at about 1/3C.

Mike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...