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Sandow


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  • 2 weeks later...
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I am a big fan of your designs Peter (and adaptions of other designs), even though I haven't built one yet

I would like to build this as camera platform for my GoPro Hero but will go for electric power instead of IC. Other than making sure the CG is correct would there be anything else I need to keep in mind doing an electric version? Do I use the same down/side engine thrust angles as mentioned in the article?

Regards,
Dan

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Hi Peter,

I am known as a light builder and have also built and flown my own design all vintage One electric at 52" which i call the joker and a 60" ic with a OS25 which i call the Wizdor. These are both floater and are great fun to fly. I have just finished the Sandow electric The battery is in front of the centre line between the fire wall and under the motor I have done this so as to put all the heavy stuff right up at the front. But the amount of lead i needed to balance it was to much even when i put it under the motor and i also could not accomdate the mass. This was complitley finished cover and everything.

So i thought the only thing i could do was to turn it in to an i/c which is what i did. This was a big job i had to get rid off the shoot and make a fuel tank bay where that was. I put a os15 no a plastic mount and before i went any further i tried to balance it same thing.

Can you tell me if you had to put much lead in it.

Regards Rick

I have built the sndow

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  • 2 weeks later...

A suggestion for an electric motor set-up would be a 2212-06 (2200kv) motor, availabe Giantshark for a little less than £9. That way you could use your 2cell Li-po battery. You wouldn't need anything bigger than a 30A Esc and if you study the motor spec they advise on prop sizes suitable for the motor and battery set up.

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As my Sandow nears completion just a couple of things to do, like covering the main wing and then deciding what size silicone or rubber bands I need for both the main wing and the tail stab/ fin. If anyone can help with a recommendation on sizes it would be greatly appreciated.

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  • 1 month later...

Maided flight went extremely well its a pussycat to fly. The only problem was take off, the model has a mind of it's own skating around in every direction conceivable so I ended up hand launching her.

Another brilliant Peter Miller model. keep um coming Peter..............

Neale

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  • 1 month later...

Hello all,

Did start to build this a couple of months ago,but other builds took over.plus cold weather.

So now i have sent for the laser cut parts along with the Pix-e-major parts (Tim Hoopers offering)

So the only part i have started is one fuz side.

Do we have any completed elastic trikery models,and what set up are you using.

Does it require extra weight to compensate for lack of engine.

Will post some pics on when parts arrive in next few days.

Good building..Ian

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

Very Nice. Glad that you are having fun with it.

I can't help feeling that nearly doubling the power will be rather over kill. It is basically a free flight model.

Maybe if you  scaled it  to 60" span it would be better with the .21

Peter

Edited By Peter Miller on 19/05/2014 08:29:14

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have just flown my Sandow fro the first time, take off was novel, all over the place, so hand launched. It flew well but seemed to adopt a nose up attitude, as though tail heavey, which it wasn,t, also rudder was fairly insensitive (possibly blanked by fus.

One of our older members who has flown ff for years reckoned it was nose heavey, which seemed strange as I would have thought the opposite, it dossent balloon when the throttle was opened fully.

Has anyone got any ideas??????

puzzled of Stockport

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Some people seem to have squirrely models and others don't. If it balances in the right place it should perform as described.

The fact that it doesn't zoom on full power could mean it is nose heavy or more down thrust than original. It seems to vary much more than other models that I have converted.

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Thanks Peter, will try reducing lead first, then maybe try playing with tail and wing incidences, unless someone else has a brainwave.

love your designs, my Harlequin flew brilliantly until recently I thought I could fly in the gap between the top of the trees bordering our club and the low winter sun, big mistake, I have just started on the Big Ship, and hope this flys as well.

Many thanks for much fun

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The Big Ship is a really nice model. IT was originally designed as an R/C model and the orginal Little Ship at 44" was an incredible model. Everyone in our club built at least one. They would fly in quite strong winds.

I would suggest a good OS 35 to 40 FP for your Big ship or even a 40 FS.

NOTE Make the wire "V" on the undercarriage that goes under the fuselage out of much thicker wire than specified on the plan. at least 10 SWG.

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  • 2 months later...
Posted by Peter Miller on 19/05/2014 08:24:42:

Very Nice. Glad that you are having fun with it.

I can't help feeling that nearly doubling the power will be rather over kill. It is basically a free flight model.

Maybe if you scaled it to 60" span it would be better with the .21

Peter

Edited By Peter Miller on 19/05/2014 08:29:14

I went ahead and it flies very well! It will potter about on very low throttle settings and is good fun indeed.

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