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Depron Spitfire


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Similarly, I wasn't interested enough to open this thread until I was a bit more bored than usual at work...

I must say that it's rather inspirational!

I did acquire a couple of sheets of 4mm Depron a few months ago which have been propping up the wall of my spare room - I have a feeling that they may be in the workshop before long!

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Thanks for the encouragement guys. I love building with depron and I think it is very underated as a material for complex model shapes.I dont consider myself to be an expert builder but I find depron easy to work with and quite quick to construct and I can make larger models much cheaper with depron than any other material.

Graham. I bought my latest supplies here **LINK** as they will sell bulk boxes. I do have some poly-c but I havent tried it yet.

Here is the latest update, addin the formers for the top deck and the usual lightening holes at the rear

top deck 004.jpg

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Glenn

An interesting construction method (and all those lightening holes!) but I would have thought those formers were rather far apart to give the necessary support to the skin for it to take a significant compressive load. This suggests the fuselage would 'buckle' before it split in a rough landing.

Just an observation. Of course I may be wrong.

Can't wait to see how you tackle the wings.

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Hi Simon. I dont think it will be too much of a problem but it will be more apparent when the top skins are applied. At the moment the emphasis is on weight saving especially at the rear.

A few more formers have been fixed, shoulb be ready to get some skin on soon.

Glenn

top deck 005.jpg

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I generally use a hot glue gun for small parts and a fast set PU adhesive similar to Gorilla glue for the larger areas.If you look closely there are parts where the glue has foamed out of the joint which makes it look a bit messy but it does grab well providing the shiny surface is roughed up with sandpaper.

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Hi Micheal. I agree my albums need a good sort out and I will get around to it one of these days.

Got back to doing some building at last, cut out the wing ribs and core sheets, just need the spars then I will try and clear a space big enough to lay it all out flat. I will try and post pictures later.

Glenn

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any more updates glenn. i'd like to see how your getting on.

i'm currently building a guillows sopwith camel and thinking about documenting it.

have taken photos of most of the build. i try to do just a bit each day and find that it soon adds up to a fair bit. currently working on the servo/ battery /control rod installation.

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I just found this build, and I am fascinated by the detail that has gone into the various formers used to shape the fus, fin and tailplane. It's great stuff.

A question - do you use a heat gun when forming the curves on the skin, or is it easy to just bend the depron on a model this size?

A great build to watch. I might have a go at the Nijhuis Hurricane using this method.

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WOW !! Glenn Well done mate ...................I just loved reading this post

I have never used Depron or even seen it, I have only ever used balsa If i was to order some what would I need 6mm & 2mm ?

Your model looks as if it was a shop bought kit really impressed mate, keep the photos and information coming, Its so nice to see people who like to build rather than just fly.

Do you add any balsa to your depron like wing spars etc?

Regards

Roy

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Toni, I did try using a heat gun once to help bend the sheeting as I heard of others using this method. All I managed to do was melt the depron so all I use is may fingers and the edge of kitchen worktop (when I am allowed) and this works fine for me.

Roy, I am using hardwood spars and I will add a plywood reinforcing plate for the nylon bolts for attaching the wings to the fus, this is the only wood that will be used on the wings. I normally use 6mm sheet for formers as there is a bigger edge to glue the skins to. I have used 3mm to skin all of my other models but I bought a box of 2mm to try and it seems ok.

I like to build my models as light as possible so I dont use glass cloth over the skin but there is no reason why glass couldnt be used with something like poly c or even epoxy to make a really strong model

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I recently glassed the nose of my Depron CH using foam-safe dope (looks like wallpaper paste)..

Its definately more ding proof than not, but isn't 'rock hard' like normal dope...

Thats on hold at the mo, for a 1/5 Cub, also Depron, and I intend to repeat the above on the LE.. I want to see if it's possible to put 'normal' dope OVER a layer of foam-safe, as that will go rock-hard, but it might react with the other dope, and definately melt the depron, so I need to do a bit of testing on some scraps first...

Glenn, I can't wait to see the finished article... Have you plans for a finish yet..? Simple paint, full weathering, plain depron..???

I listened to your advice regarding cutting holes with pipes, and it's been very successful.. 14 ribs in 6mm, all with 4 perfect holes.... Ta for that..

Luv

Chrisie.. xx

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Hi Chrisie, not decided on a scheme yet but while I intended this as a fun scale model I will put as much detail in as I can manage without adding too much weight. Glad you like the hole cutters, its nice when a simple tool makes the job easier.

Should have another update later.

Glenn

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