richard cohen Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Evening all I have searched the forum but can't find anything related so here goes.... I cannot source a commercial fuel tank to suit the installation of my latest model so i figured it must be possible to solder one up from tin plate (remembering my old control line fuel tank from 30yrs ago). I figure to use the metal from a thinners tin as i presume its coated to prevent corrosion but i would appreciate any tips, guidance or links on best method to construct one. ie: what type of solder to use, do i fit a pick up pipe and clunk and then solder into place (meaning i can't get to it in the future) any help appreciated Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Carr Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Hi Rich, lim sure Alex Whittaker showed us all how it was done in one of his "weekenders" columns. it was some time ago though, if your a subscriber perhaps you can find it in the archive? Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 I did a piece on tanks but it was never used. Also did one in Miller's Tales in the late AMI. I used to use catering size instant coffee tins as there was no paint or printing to remove. Don't know if they still do them but try your local cafe. Now I use K&S tinplate. Tip from the past (Sorry can't remember who came up with it) If you buy a 20 mm conduit bush from an electrical supplier and cut it down to 6 mm long and solder that intoa tinplate tank you can use the normal bung and clunks etc from a plastic R//C tank. If making it without the bung, just a normal tank, one of the most important tips is this. Don't drill the holes for the pipes. Punch them with a nail. This bends a sort of flange down into the tank. When you solder round the pipe you get a much stronger joint as you get a fillet of solder that supports it far better. Tot check for leaks plug the pipes and submerge in a bowl of hot water. You get more pressure than if you just rty blowing into it. Complete cleanliness is important and try for a nice fillet of solder round all joins. Edited By Peter Miller on 01/07/2012 07:59:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Hi Rich, I had the same problem with a tank for the little Mattador for the 2012 mass build. In the end I did a tank from tin plate like the old control line days, but it was a standard tank without a clunk. Here Peters idea sound good for a neck to take a standard bung, depends what size and shape your after, but I cant see why it wouldn't work. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard cohen Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 Cheers Craig, will browse the back issues. Peter, the idea of a soldered ring to accept a standard bung is clever and i see the benefit of using a premade bottle/tin. I will have a look out for a suitable size tin. If not, then cheers to BB for the link, Certainly takes me back to my youth seeing the lovely seam edges. Makes me tempted to make one anyway and see how it comes out Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaunie Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 I have made a couple (some years ago now) quite successfully and used sheet steel from old (clean) engine oil cans. Thoroughly clean all edges as they are often coated as you suspect. Always take care with the edges as they can cut you easily. The method I used was to cut each end cap about 3mm oversize all round and fold a 90 degree return by cutting a hardwood block to the right size and tapping the edge over it with a small hammer. I fitted the caps over the sheet I had formed into the main rectangular section but it might be neater if a little more difficult to fit the cap inside. I soldered the end with the pipework first, checked it was ok and the fitted the plane end after. I used electrical solder but plumbers solder would probably be better, It's just that I'm an electrician not a plumber! Hope this is of some use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDF Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 I used to make all my control line tanks never done one with a clunk though. The thinners tin should be fine for material but clean off the paint along the edges to be soldered. Use brass tubes as copper goes green and yucky (technical term) with glow fuel. I would avoid plumbers solder as this has been lead free for some time and it simply isn't as good as the leaded stuff. Use a separate flux, personally I prefer Fluxite as its less corrosive than Bakers Fluid but either would be OK. Tin the edges to be joined with flux / solder before assembly. Clean then add fresh flux and solder it together. Ensure there is a good fillet of solder anywhere you cannot have a proper flange. Thoroughly clean off any flux residue inside and out after soldering with solvent as this can hide leaks. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Cut one end from a piece from an old can that already has a metal screw cap & use this as the front end of the tank. Remove the sealing washer from the cap & cut a hole it's centre. Solder a brass stub tube for the clunk to the cap & replace the washer. I've used empty small metal fuel & thinners containers in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 I had a go at it Richard.....only a small one though...... Details here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncebounce crunch Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Im glad i found this as brought back memories of CL models and the tanks me and dad made now i will be making my sig cub 1/6th more scale. thankyou and cheers. bbc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Hi bouncebouncecrunch Tin plate tanks are fine for diesel motors but remember that if you are going to use glow fuel for your Cub it will rust a tin plate tank very quickly, then particles of rust clog you carb ; or worse still get into your engine and damage it. If you make it from brass plate any Nitro in the fuel will dissolve the copper content and leave you with a leaking tank ! It take a while to happen but it does happen. E.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncebounce crunch Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Engine Doctor THANK YOU the tanks dad and i made were for diesel CL models, so thanks, before i made a bad mistake. grateful bbc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Kearney Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Hi Richard, I've made a couple recently, one for a KK Phantom CL and one for the Mini Tyro I built last year. I took some pics of the Phantom tank during construction, I think you can get a view of how it goes together by looking at those pics, in my gallery. I used tin plate from the local model shop and whatever solder I had to hand with a very small amount of flux. Cleaning and cleaning and cleaning again with wire wool helps of course! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard cohen Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 thanks for everyones tips and after a lot of mistakes and curses , i have got a finished tank. It ain't as pretty as some of yours but it's air tight ! I used the metal from 5 litre thinners tins from our bodyshop. Couldn't find any suitable size commercial tins so I tried the 2 'U' shaped panels method without much success - too big and too much flexing. I ended up opting to make the base and 4 sides from one sheet folded up to make a box. I then tried Peter's tip of soldering in a ring to accept a standard fuel bung from a regular tank. When happy with the clunk position i soldered on the lid. This gives me 0.6 litres of fuel which should give my AU23 Peacemaker a decent 'stooging' time running a saito 120 FS. Now what else can i make out of plate and solder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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