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Elliott Mcdonald
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Hi everyone,

My name is Elliott and I have been into modeling and rc planes since I can remember (although not put the two together untill now)

Im 20 and have had my spark for modeling ignighted by my father-in-law, he is a CI down the local air cadets who have just been bought a top flite gold edition 60" wingspan spitfire to build (not a good idea for a bunch of 14/15 year olds un seasoned flyers and modellers) which in turn got me and him wanting our own.

I have just bought a guillow's Cessna 170 for £20 (as I do not mind going wrong with it) and I am buying a discovery trainer later this month. The Cessna is to practice with the build aspect and cutting balsa neatly and precicly and the discovery is to get my no experience flight to some experience.

I thought I would join a forum and get to know other like-minded people and hopefully get some hints and tips from you

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Hi there and welcome.

You will get a lot of advice and help here, some of it conflicting as aeromodellers tend to be individualistic and have their own ideas.

As you say, the Topflite Spitfire is hardly an ideal first build and definitely not a first model to fly but I suspect the magic word "Spitfire" will help with the enthusiasm.

One of the first bits of advice everyone will give you is: Join a club to learn to fly. Find out what mode of radio the club flies on. That is whether they fly with the throttle on the right (mode 1) or left stick (Mode 20 as it is hard to teach someone when they are on a different model.

I am sure you are going to get a mass more suggestions in the very near future.

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I have 1 question actually, as stated above I have bought a cessna 170 just to practice with balsa and I am using a model knife (rather scalpal looking) and trying to find a technique of cutting without breaking 'sawing' doesnt seem to work very well and have turned to using the knife more like a pin straight down which seems to be working better.

Am i using the wrong knife or am I cutting wrong?

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The key with using a knife is

1. noting what direction the grain of the wood is in relative to the curve. The knife will always want to follow the grain as you draw it along. So always cut in the direction that would draw the knife away from the part.

2. having a really sharp knife - it can't be too sharp! A new scalpel blade will only last for a realtively small number of cuts. I use 3 Swan Morton scalpel holders. One with a very new blade for critcal cuts, one with a middleing blade for general cutting, one with an older blade for stuff that doesn't matter - like cutting the nipple off the end of the glue spout! As the new "goes off" I relegate it to the middle, the middle becomes the "cut anything" and the third gets a new blade.

3.last thing - its so much easier with a good cutting mat - one of the green "self healing" ones are best. They hold and support the blade while it cuts without dulling it.

BEB

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Hi Elliott, I tend not to use scalpel blades (Swan Morton) myself but the small size retractable blade 'Olfa' cutters available from stationers and DIY shops work for me. The blades are segmented so you can keep breaking off a section when they lose their edge. The blades with the 30 degree point are best. The replacement blades are cheap too.

As far as cutting thicker sheets of balsa (5mm+), across the grain, I find a razor saw is essential. Again Swan Morton make them but I have one made by Tamiya which I prefer. Alternatively I find it better to gently but repetitively score the wood (against a steel rule) rather than trying to cut through in one go and end up crushing the wood.

I agree with BEB, a large cutting mat is essential to prolong the life of the blades.

Other useful items are a razor plane and a perma-grit block for sanding. The perma-grit blocks are not cheap but last forever. Once you 'discover' them you will end up buying a collection in various sizes, I did at any rate, much better than sand paper.

Before you know it you will soon be hooked on this absorbing hobby.

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