What are your 'from plans' building techniques?

[Chuck Plains]

I would be very interested to hear about all you experienced model builders' techniques for building from plans.

Mind you, I'm not waiting, and have started with a downloaded free plan called a Go-electric from a chap called Graham Smith. (embarassingly I've forgotten where I found him, possibly RC Groups). it's his own design 14" span indoor flyer, based on electrics from a small RC car toy thingy. But I thought i'd try to make a free flight job to begin with.

I've started by pinning/taping the plan onto my 3mm styrofoam sheet and cutting through the outline for the single pieces. And pretended that the fuselage shape that got cut out was a template for the second side.

I can see that I will be making more than one, as this first one is likely to be a bit unbalanced.

I have saved this little plan on my PC, so I can print templates to my heart's content.

Crikey! I just realised I don't have a building board or any building aids at all! Haha! 

Edited By Chuck Plains on 19/01/2013 15:18:53

[PatMc]

I arrange all templates that will fit onto an A4 size "canvas" then print this on an A4 size self adhesive label paper.

[Mowerman]

I Copy the fuselage formers then stick the copies to balsa with Prit Stick and cut from there. Always check that the coppier used produces accurate size copies.

For parallel wings the copies are stuck to 1/16 ply and cut out then the ribs cut to those patterns (sand paper is stuck to one side of the rib paterns to stop them slipping when cutting the ribs. Tapered wings can be done with root and tip rib patterns then use the sandwich method.

[Tony Bennett]

I trace everything, then keep the tracings for future ref.

then make 3mm ply templates to cut round.

once the build is finished, everything gets bundled up together in case needed for future repairs.

 

Edited By Tony Bennett on 19/01/2013 17:23:05

[GrahamC]

Templates. I tend to copy bits of the plan on my all in one printer, cut around and simply selotape the template onto the material to be cut. I then simply cut thrrough the paper template and material in one go.

In terms of a building board, I would recomend a piece of plasterboard. Very cheap if you have to buy it, and its really flat, and takes pins perfectly.

You can make up little sanding blocks with some scraps, or lolly sticks and some contact adhesive. These can be useful for tidying, or trimming to length.

Do big time sanding outside! Balsa dust is nasty stuff. It s well worth having some pound shop face masks on hand.

And think, think think! Make sure you understand each stage before you get glueing. Then take it steady! Even the most amazing scale builds are just a lot of fairly simple little stages. Aim on finishing the next stage, and your will get there in the end.

Have fun

[andrew baum]

im starting a c-130 in plan form but getting all my wood first then will start

[Andrew767]

Posted by Mowerman on 19/01/2013 17:03:49:

I Copy the fuselage formers then stick the copies to balsa with Prit Stick and cut from there. Always check that the coppier used produces accurate size copies.

For parallel wings the copies are stuck to 1/16 ply and cut out then the ribs cut to those patterns (sand paper is stuck to one side of the rib paterns to stop them slipping when cutting the ribs. Tapered wings can be done with root and tip rib patterns then use the sandwich method.

Simply ask Mowerman nicely.....Then borrow his patterns!.....Works for me!!!.

Andrew

[Chuck Plains]

thanx for the rapid responses guys.

I just remembered that I had a large cork noticeboard stashed in a corner. That'll do for a start. I like the printed sticky label idea Pat. Good one! But I reckon templates is a good way to go. The irony is that I work to drawings all flamin day in a precision engineering workshop, and up to now have prefered the idea of making up the designs in my head (with a little plaigiarism here and there), and then drawing the idea straight onto the material. All foam so far, but I have some balsa too.

I also realise, Mr Graham sir, that I need some 90degree supports, a building grid, etc, as I just produced a wonky paralellogram like fuselage!

I think that one of the EDRCC members has mentioned having a look at his dedicated workshop. Might take him up on that offer.

Hmm, Mowerman. Didn't you feature in a Genesis song a while back?

[bouncebounce crunch]

I do enjoy the challenges that go with building from plans Chuck.

first thing i do is make copies of formers and ribs on my small printer scanner (told the wife that it was for her to print cards /photos and the like -fooled her hahahaha) sometimes i will iron on to the balsa but other times i will glue.

I will add a centre line down the middle of my building board for reference.

i use tranparent highlighter textas on the plan to mark out features that are partly hidden, even though you know they are there it is good to see them.

one gripe i have with plans today is the lack of a balsa list. but they are free plans so i will take that back.

[Chuck Plains]

A balsa list? Do you mean a guide to what types of balsa to use? Until recently I hadn't thought about there being different grades. But it makse sense.

[monty2]

As a recent returner to models, I photocopy the bits I want and mount them on the balsa with "Spray Mount" from WH Smith. when bits cut peels off easy peasy. I found it better than Pritt stick etc.

[Chuck Plains]

I like the sound of 'easy peasy'.

[David Davis]

I use carbon paper.

[kc]

I use small pieces of double sided tape to fix photocopies to the wood then cut right through the photocopy with a scalpel into the wood. For thin balsa this will cut right thro, on ply it scores a line to be cut with a Stanley knife or a fretsaw.

If you use photocopies make sure there is no distortion or change in size in one direction.

[Jimbo565]

I'm with DD,carbon paper onto thin card and there you have it,if ever you have to make a new part you have the template

[Barrie Dav 2]

I'm with Tony and Jim on this. It takes a bit longer to cut templates (I use card picture mounting/framing board) but if you make an error in flying (I believe that actually happens) it's so much easier to just cut replacement parts from the template.

[Chuck Plains]

Plenty of logical suggestions and techniques for getting the parts cut to the plan, thanks guys.

A second question is, what about the assembly? How do y'all stabilize and hold the parts while the glue takes effect. Do make your own supports and alignment jigs, or does everyone rely on those bracket things I've seen advertised? I realise that sometimes you just have to make something up if the model is not the usual type of shape or format.

[monty2]

Again, I use the KISS principal, for flat items stright on the building board, pins either through the balsa if thick enough or straddling. If attaching say 2 wing halves, clamps of various sizes or old fashioned pegs knicked from 'er indoors when she aint looking.

if youre not familiar with KISS, its an old term from my apprentice days and means Keep It Simple Stupid. use just prior to your instructor applying a size 12 boot to a delicate part of the anatomy.

[Tony Bennett]

as monty said.

pegs from the washing line and pins.

i also use a couple of engineers squares for holding stuff upright.

[Barrie Dav 2]

Why not look at the SLEC building jig. It's a good investment, easy to set up and use, saves a lot of time and once you've bought it, it's there forever.

Also one advantage that I find is that you can set the jig up, commence building the fuz. or whatever and then just put the whole lot to one side while the glue is setting and have a clear work area to get on with something else.

[Chuck Plains]

Yes, I've been thinking about this aspect, and have gleaned half a short length of large plastic trunking from the recycling center, which I shall cut into short sections to produce small 90 degree supports which can be taped or pinned to the base board. But I have been checking out the SLEC building jig for inspiration and may well order one once the pain of Xmas spending has died down somewhat.

[Anthony Billings]

Totaly agree with Barrie, the SLEC jig is excellent.

[Chuck Plains]

Hmm, my plastic trunking is not square after all. I'll probably have to take it into work and gently machine one face to make the 90 deg correct. Machining plastic can be a pain as it flexes against the cutter and is hard to control.

[Greybeard]

I use a SLEC jig and find it a great help. I also brought a set of steel try squares- 4 different sizes in a box for about a £10, must get myself another set as they are very usefull for setting up wing ribs and the like. If I'm making a set of wing ribs for a straigh taper wing then I make the end templates out of epoxy glass sheet and then use the sandwich method.

[dbflyer]

When building a wing, for example, and the ribs need to be kept vertical, I use an old credit card as a jig. It is almost essential to use a fast setting adhesive but that would be self evident I expect.