Peter Miller Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 The plan is exactly as per the original. I have a special Great Planes sanding block (Bought direct from the USA) which shapes the Vee and also 1/4" round edged sheet and 1/2" radius leading edge. An SC 32 would really make it go like stink. An SC 25 would be pretty good. I picked up an almost mint OS FX 25 that I keep looking at but I have a use for that. I do have the construction pictures but basically the structure is very similar to Harlequin. It is my normal sequence. Gets boring which why I am doing the Aviat 110 Special. I have a couple more designs in mind that will be different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Anyone building from the magazine plan should note the position of the F2 dowel hole centre seems to be 5mm lower than needed ( it seems to me anyway ) It needs to be 18mm down from top not 23mm to match the dowel in wing rib.Maybe it's deliberately done too low so that it is filed to exact fit later? But it's rather a lot to file in my opinion.Edited By kc on 02/08/2013 12:21:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Actually I have taken to making that hole lower (or higher for low wing models so it can be filed to exact position. I must remember to mention that in the instructions in future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 Hi Kc Lets see some pics of the build and the final completion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Peter. I thought I had seen somewhere that you lowered / raised the dowel hole to allow filng to size - it's not in the Swamp Rat article but it is in the Oodally article.A dotted line and a note on the former drawing might be best for those who dont read the instructions. Gary, I am just at the planning stage --deciding how best to fit a lightweight motor & 3S 2200 into the model. I will relocate F1 to help get the weight forward & avoid using lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Here are all the construction pictures Use them in conjunction with the instructions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Peter, I am sure these photos will help builders.........however I think Gary's request for photos was a way of goading me into getting on with the model! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 It doesn't take long to build you should have some pictures by morning lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Formtex1947 Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Many thanks Peter for the great build pictures. My word you have a clean wokshop, wish mine looks as clean! Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 That is not my workshop. Editors objected very strongly to my construction photos so now I have to have a big blue backdrop over my bed and covering the window and photo lights. It means spending time setting up the "studio" every time I want to take a picture or two, The workshop next room is a total shambles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Hi KC I did mine as to plan and all worked very well, its to small a model to notice any improvement !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Anbody who is building from the free pull out plan should note the following anomalies which I found whilst building....F5 needs to be 3mm tallerF6 needs to be 2mm tallerF7 needs to be 2mm taller to match the fuselage sides. All need the extra at the top because it affects holes for the snakes. Obviously the 3/16 notches need to be realigned too.The holes for the snakes in F7 and F8 look way out on the right hand side too. I replotted all the holes from the fus drawings. Make sure all the formers face the same way so the holes line up. Gary used servos at the rear instead of snakes, no doubt he remembered to cut servo lead access before sheeting the fuselage.The drawing for R1 rear part seems wrong--- the narrow part should be at the top ( you cannot just turn it upside down as the top is more curved) This is to allow the servo arm to project downwards into the fuselage.It is worth saying that if any beginners are building this model that the wing drawing is in two parts on the free plan but the drawing must be joined up before building the wing as it is built in one continuous length ( unlike some other models that build the panels separately and join them with ply joiners etc ) It would be much easier to use 48 inch balsa rather than join sheets & spars. 48 inch is easily obtainable from SLEC or from Balsa Cabin. Spar material is not noted on plan but Peter normally specifies 'rock hard balsa' for spars. I substituted spruce for the spars due to lack of really hard balsa.Edited By kc on 18/08/2013 11:20:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 Hi KC I made mine from peters drawing and it all worked out ok !! As you say my servos were in the fuselage but i had made provisions for the wires before construction . It has been known for rcm@e drawings to be wrong in the past . It would be nice to hear from anybody else who may have finished or started the model Is yours electric or ic lets see some build pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 You should have seen the proofs BEFORE I corrected them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Work on my lightweight electric version is proceding. I wanted a model which would fly well on a 3S2200. Something for smooth aerobatics --- a Gentlemans plane not a hooligans machine. Time will tell if that is a big enough Lipo or whether a 4S will be needed. I have made a few modifications to the front end to ensure the balance can be achieved without lead. After much thought I decided to move the motor mount right up to the nosering position and use a smaller F1 mounted right at the nose. This means the motor sits out front but actually its really not very different to the spinner it replaces! It could well be that its too far out the front, but my reasoning is that although the motor & Lipo are about the same weight as a .25 glow the weight of a glow is all at the front, while a Lipo sits many inches back from the nose.When further building has been done I will do a rough check on CG with the motor out front.....maybe I will need to get the saw out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 This is the Liteply battery tray on my version which reinforces the nose as well. Note holes for plugs to pass through and slots for Velcro strap in two different positions so the Lipo can be placed further back if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Motor & Lipo placed in postion just to see how everything fits.........the ESC is placed underneath out of the way. A simple hatch on top should produce a sleeker appearance but this is just a practical plane not built for looks. Note that I joined the fuselage sheet at the front with a simple butt joint rather than at the tail with a scarfed joint as designed. I figured it would be strong enough as it's lapped by the 1/32 ply ( as designed for glow it would also be lapped by a 3/16 trebler as well as the ply if joined here) This is the underside view. A hatch underneath will cover the ESC & have an airscoop for cooling. The Lipo access is on top for safety even if it weakens the construction having a hatch top & bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Hi KC It will be interesting looks like you have gone for 300w on 3s. Hmmmmmmm Just looking at the location of the lipo, my only suggestion would be to remove the studs (cut them down) or put in a safety wall to cover them. The reason, if you have a disaster the lipo could get damaged by the studs . (as me how I know ) it happened to me on 6s a huge smoke ball and flames and nothing left very very frightening good luck with the build I will be interested to know the auw!!! Edited By Gary Vinten 1 on 21/08/2013 19:42:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Gary, you are absolutely right .....but of course this was just a lash up to show how it all fits and the bolts were just left oversize at the moment! Interesting to hear that it did cause a fire though....a soft balsa bulkhead seems a good idea to locate the Lipo & save damage.It is not clear whether as designed the part of the fin extends right down between elevators--- the grain shown suggests not, but I will extend it to meet the tailskid plate to make it a bit more sturdy to resist hanger rash etc. A cutout for elevator joiner will be needed.I have to say Peter's wing construction method is easy & much quicker than 2 panels. Almost as quick to make 1 long panel as to make half a wing! So it's almost twice as quick. Makes me wonder whether any wing needing dihedral would be quicker to build in one piece and sawn in half and rejoined with dihedral braces! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 The fin stops on top of the tailplane and is supported by the triangular stock shown. The rudder goes right down to the bottom of the fuselage. Putting the fin through the tailplane will weaken the tailplane and that is NOT a good idea.. I suppose you could build wings in one piece and then cut them and jpoin them. I do not have a long enough building board for wings of more than 48" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Actually Peter I was not suggesting cutting into the tailplane! I noticed that 1 inch of the fin can go down between the elevator halves without cutting into the tailplane. so that is what I intend to do. I have pulled in the fuselage to leave just a 1/4 inch gap ( instead of about 3/16 on the plan )to allow the rearmost 1 inch of the fin to just fit & go right down to the tailskid plate.Cutting into a tailplane is a very bad idea as Peter says, in fact just scoring the tailplane when trimming the film can cause tailplane failure - a fellow club member had a Wot4 tailplane shear off on one side in flight due to this. Fortunately magnificent flying by his instructor saved the plane and allowed inspection which revealed the probable cause of the fault was a light scoring of the balsa where the film had been trimmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 I simply used a bit of tapered wood between the sides at the rear. I suppose you could run the rear of the fin down to the bottom. On the drawing it shows that the rear of the fuselage is in fact 1/4". Note that on my original drawing the triangular wood each side of the fin only covers the width of the tailplane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 Hi KC How is the swamp rat going any updates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted September 27, 2013 Share Posted September 27, 2013 Just about finished covering it 5 minutes ago.........lots of fitting out now, glueing hinges, pinning them, horns, clevises, motor, .....all the things that muck up a good covering job!What news on the Patriot plans being published Gary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Vinten 1 Posted September 27, 2013 Author Share Posted September 27, 2013 Hi KC Patriot plans ah!! Not a lot on that front but will try to do something during the winter . Do you have any photos of the rat covered ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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