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Swamp Rat builders


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No photos yet, but soon.....

All up weight with 3S2200 Lipo is just under 3 pounds which is quite good. CG should be OK without any lead. Nothing special was done to keep the weight down, just good balsa selection, wiping away glue excess ( Evostik Resin W was used mostly )and Solarfilm covering. Servos in the fuselage were moved forward a bit ( no need to leave room for tank with electric )and 2 HS 55 servos used for ailerons. One thing which might have saved a bit of weight is use of glue film instead of contact adhesive on the ply doubler.
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Hey KC, Yes I am curretly building The swap rat and am almost finished the fuselage now.
The wing is done have to say enjoyed the cowl a lot especially as she's going to be the IC version so lots of cut outs etc. When she begins to get assembled and looks Ok will post a picture. Hope she flys as well as she looks so far.

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This is such a simple build there must be more than just 4 people who have built this! If it flys as well as you both say, and I am sure it does, then it should be a very popular model.....so I nominated it for the 2014 Mass Build
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My Swamp Rat is built,covered and has the RC gear installed. Weather is too wet for photos outdoors so a day or few away.....

I found that at 3 pounds weight the model balances with a 3S2200 and the motor out front as in my previous photos. In fact it would just about balance with the motor mounted behind the front bulkhead/nosering. Certainly would balance there with a heavier Lipo such as 3S3300 or a 4S2200 etc. So if that is anyones choice of Lipo that is what I suggest as long as you keep the tail parts light.
My long front battery compartment will take either battery mounting and allow CG by moving Lipo forward or back depending on Lipo weight/size.
If I build another one I would pinch the nose in a bit, say to 2 inches overall width, rather like Gary's latest version.
Gary can we see the photos of your motor installation for comparison with mine? This would guide other electric builders. The photos were on the Patriot,Ratatat,Swamp Rat thread but seem to have disappeared now.

Edited By kc on 04/10/2013 11:46:48

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I used a separate servo for each aileron using paper tubes to take the servo leads.

The linkage for one central servo is shown on the drawing of many other Peter Miller recent plans, this uses a rod to each bellcrank and a third rod with a clevis All 3 rods are soldered into a brass tube when finally assembled. Look for this drawing which makes it clear. If you cannot find one of these plans then ask again as no doubt someone else will have the sketch and post it here.

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I suppose Peter has some procedure to hold it all in the correct place whilst soldering. Maybe the bell cranks are jammed in some way whilst soldering to get it right?
Presumably that is a Radio Active servo mount used by Peter. I couldn't find anyone who sold these at the Headcorn Show ( every other fixture and fitting was on sale but not these! ) Where do you get them from?
I gave up and fitted 2 servos in the wing.
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I do it the boring way. Well, one of two ways.

Hold the bellcranks at 90 degrees or so that one arm is parallel to the spar and one to the rib. Connect the parts all together and put heat sinks of the wire that goes to servo and then fill the brass tube with solder.

Some times I don't do the final connection to the servo until the model has been covered. Then I fit the horns, connect connect the push rods to the bellcrank and the horns. Hold the ailerons in neutral and solder the brass tube as before. You can sometimes (often) see the burn marks when I have done the soldering.

IT is simple, it works and I can't think a of a clever way of doing it.

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The Swamp Rat article said Radio Active sevo mounts were used, however Peters photos show mounts that seem to be the same as the SLEC servo mounts. Of course these were on sale at Headcorn! Never having seen Radio Active mounts I didnt realise they were similar.
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I wish you had not asked that Gary!
I had a test flight today...it is a great flyer....well up to the moment the dreaded 2.4 lockout syndrome happened to me! Motor cut and it spiralled in just like 7 models of my fellow club members in last 2 months. We cannot find any common cause except they may have been end on to the aerial at the moment the problem occurred.
In my case it was just possible the Futaba FAAST Rx aerials got dislodged by the aileron servo leads when tucked away. It's possible they were no longer at 90 degrees. I would much prefer to say it was pilot error but I really didnt think it was - I am sure the electric motor cut and wouldn't throttle up and no control of anything.
Anyway damge was light - tailplane & fin ripped off and wing bolt plate ripped out, fuselage a little damaged. Easy repairs but it wont look quite as nice!
But such a nice plane to fly that I cannot wait to get it back in the air.
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HI kc.

I don't mind what people do to their version of my designs, we all change plans that we build from.

Sorry about the crash though, that is upsetting and especially with a new model.

I can only think of two lock outs in all the years we have flown 2.4. Oh, Our club sec had a few more with his DX8. Sold all his 2.4 and has gone FUtaba I had better not tell him you Futaba locked out.

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