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Martins i/c Mustang


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That's very impressive detail Martin, more than anything I've ever done. Your experience with the Smoothrite is interesting. My only experience with it has been on motorbike frames, where the ability to get a smooth coat without obvious brush-marks was seen as a way of avoiding the need to pay for a professional spray job. Overall it worked but sometimes it was unpredictable. However, it is probably 15 years since I used it on my Norton 650SS and it's still in reasonable nick, so it looks as if you should be ok with it!

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Hi BEB, these are my versions of the one by TN published in the mag. They were on one of my earlier blogs but could not find them.

Notice that the ends are ground slightly conical and that the wires need to be fitted with a slight curvature so that the glue blobs can be rolled on. I use Titebond aliphatic with a little water added. You need to experiment with the mix. Regular cleaning of excessive resin on the tips is required.

The whole model was `riveted` with these in just a few hours.

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I know that you are correct there Jeff but just try doing it. This is stand off scale and the observer must at least be able to see them. Indenting using tubes is just not possible on a glass skin. It is intended to be a practical flying model, not a museum piece! I am getting more into scale but my primary interest is still aerobatics.

Thank you for your comment (my next scale build is a Stampe SV4B).

Martin

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Still a lot of tweaking to do on the u/c but everything basically works OK.

The weight at the moment is 9lb. 6oz. but with fuel and the `last minute bits you forget about` it will be well on the wrong side of 10lbs. I shall have to shuffle the battery packs around since the cg is currently 3/4" forward of the correct position, although the rest of the fuel proofer etc. may have some effect.

The spiders nest connecting the eight wing servos and other gubbins will be sorted out with a small circuit board to include the door servo slow chip, the sequencer and multi-way sockets so that only two plugs will have to be inserted to fit the wing.

One pic shows the door servos. The outer doors as I said earlier can wait until it has been flown.

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Thanks. The 10 way connectors are identical in every way to servo plugs and use the same pins. These were originally obtained from either Farnell or RS and were the last stock of an obsolete item from work. The headers soldered to the strip board are standard Molex.

I cannot fly this until the rest is fuel proofed but Tim has just informed me that the decals are ready to send so the end is at last in sight. Really only the tank, Rx`s, retract battery switch and battery packs to fit and adjust the cg left to do (Oh and the gun ports, bomb hangers, antennae etc. etc.).

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A bit of info here for anyone interested. I think that these are the ones I used:

CPC Ltd.

10 way receptacle. Stock No. CN14561. Min. 10 @ 19.5p each.

3 way, CN14556, min. 10 @ 4.9p each.

Crimps. CN14576. Min. 100 @ 4.9p each.

You can easily set up a private account as they do retail.

The site is well worth a look since you can buy really good C.A. at 1/3rd model shop prices. Also No.11 blades and almost anything to do with electronics and tools under the sun. They do an excellent soldering station at around £32 which will do a proper job of any mechanical or electrical work.

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