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Flair Fokker DVII


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The pieces above, made from 3 mm ply and faced with 0.8mm ply (to allow the mild steel parts to lie flush with surface) fit against the extant ply ribs. just need to epoxy in place. Then upper leading edge sheeting can be applied. I had considered inserting 8BA through the rib and attachment where small hole already drilled in metal to ensure attachment cannot be pulled out by interplane strut. Thoughts? Is there much force pulling the attachment? Guess its only the weight of 2 tiny bolts!

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Posted by Harrier Mate on 01/12/2015 21:41:39:

Then made 2 left hand sides by epoxying one of the attachments wrong way round having soldered nut in place... Dohhhhh! Managed to unsolder and re-do on correct side without destroying epoxy bond.... As below.

Are you sure that epoxy bond is still good, it begins to degrade belong 150 C, and the place of maximum damage is on the wood metal surface, where it is hottest.

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Donald,

Thanks. I was wondering about that. It seems strong and of course it will now be epoxyed to the main rib as a 'sandwich'. So the metal plate will be bonded again. I felt that for extra reassurance, an 8BA bolt through the entire assembly would ensure that it physically cant detach.... unless it sheers the bolt!!!

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Yep. I reckon this is the slowest build in the history of FLAIR kits. But coming along! Top leading edge sheeting added. Centre sheeting needs sanding, as does leading edge profile. Capping strips to be done and rear interplane fixings. Then i can start on upper wing.

Bob, Have you maidened yours yet???

img_3376.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Hi guys... if anyone still out there watching slowest build of a Fokker DVII!!!!! Didnt like the centre leading edge mount support provided... just a triangular section of soft balsa, which was wrong shape and would have needed lots of filing to fit. So decided to make my own. Used kit provided vertical piece and braced it with ply offcuts from the rib template sheets (so perfect curvature). I had already added additional sub ribs beneath the centre section balsa (to give extra support to the hardwood undercarriage block beneath). So simply matched the positionof new fillets with those. Very light and strong. Covered with plate of 2mm ply (as in second picture), should stop the wing trying to part company with fuselage!!! img_3431.jpg

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This week's intent is to clear the building board of the detritus that has built up over the last few months and get started on the upper wing. Still undecided as to whether i should use the simple interplane strut joining method shown on the plan or a more scale (-ish) design. Guess the inspiration will come to me as the wing nears completion!

Does anyone know if 2.4GHz kit is susceptible to metal against metal rubbing interference. (Thinking of the interplane attachments again!). Always seemed to be a major fear in days gone by but I have little experience of the 2.4GHz equipment.

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Hmmm! i dont see the advantage of building the wing as one piece then chopping out the aileron afterwards. Surely i can make a much neater job of cutting the trailing edge of the ribs vertical for the aileron post placement by cutting them BEFORE gluing down. Maybe i'm missing something but i don't see the advantage.

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I decided to cut the ribs for the ailerons first in order to build them separately. I intend to shield the hinge line with thin strip of ply (0.4mm or 0.8mm depending on what I can lay my hands on this weekend). I will use half round aileron leading edge with recessed robart hinge points. Other advantage of cutting aileron ribs cleanly first is that the trailing edge of the wing doesnt need scarf jointing at all. The supplied strip is long enough to do entire centre section as in photo below.

img_3457.jpg

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