Danny Fenton Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Thats very interesting Ken, I know that there are several methods for bending wood, the two chemical ones being Alkali (caustic soda) and Ammonia treatment, both plasticise the celulose in the wood I believe. I wasn't aware of meths having this effect? I have heard that white vinegar works well if you cannot find ammonia never tried it myself. The other non chemical methods are steaming, boiling and using water, this seems to be "cold bending" and is not as effective as they do not affect the cellulose bond, but obviously still works. As for adding pics, this forum isn't the easiest, but then again at least the pictures will stay with the threads as a permanent addition. I hate finding something on the web which is exactly what i want to know, only to find the photos which were hosted elsewhere have long since gone, and the thread just contains white boxes, or broken link messages. So worth perservering I reckon. Chris B did this tutorial to help. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Wow the pic has just shown up well done Ken, "I'm sure my level of building a far short of you fellows but think the results are fine." I should say so that looks very nice indeed Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Mulhair Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Superb picture Ken and a great looking build! Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Posted by Danny Fenton on 14/11/2014 23:17:23: Hi Charles I have not touched F1 yet. It will probably end up with most of the port side removed to allow cell access. But it will have to have the rectangle cut from the middle eventually. My motor bulkhead sits in front of F1, the exact distance the motor needs to put the spinner back plate in the right place. The box extends back to F4. So that F2, F3 and F4 all have the rectangular hole. Does this help? I think I actually extended the box upwards slightly so that I just had to join the tops of the engine beam holes in the bulkheads for the top of the box to fit. Charles, if you are looking in, I just noticed F4 is not opened up to take the box, the box just ends at F4. I will have to check that I have allowed for this in my dimensions. Thought I better tell you before you glue anything Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Galloway Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hi Danny, I've already made the box and cut F4 to take it. If it ends up a bit short at the front , I can always add an 1/8 ply spacer. I guess that by mounting it through F4, it automatically lines it up along the top of the original bearers. Cheers, Charles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hi Charles, yes that was the intention, use what is allready there difficult to allign otherwise. I might just open F4 anyway. I still have two shells and it will "lose" the slight extra 1/8 of the box Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Galloway Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Danny, What glue do you use when planking? Cheers, Charles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 I am very impatient and use thin CA lots I have a ceiling fan to keep the fumes away from my face. I also have a 6 inch square of plan protector so that i can apply pressure without sticking myself to the plane!CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Like wading through treacle at the moment, I have managed to get the cockpit lined with alloy tape, just need to add a bit of cockpit side detail, and maybe the two instrument panels. Not too much detail as I want to get on with the build. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 16/11/2014 23:12:58 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Very nice Danny, good view of the fairing there John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Excellent Danny by the way is there some way to take the shine of this tape stuff ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 Hi Yes, you can gently steel wool it, I may do this to help the paint adhere. Of course you should use an etch primer on aluminium if you want the paint to stick with any tenacity, but in this case i am not to worried if it flakes off a bit Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 If you want to use it on the outside of an airframe you should really glass the model first or just accept that the tape will impart no additional strength and will also mark really really easily! I used it on the front of a Flair Pupeteer that I heavily shortened and repaired for a club mate. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Danny From memory, based on the flights I did [as "self loading freight" ] my memories of the two Chippies at RAF Gatow, whilst attached to Berlin Brigade in the late 70's early 80's, the seat was so badly scuffed, scratched and paint chipped there was more aluminium showing than black paint...... Mind you pretty well all of the inside looked that way !!!! Edited By Dave Hopkin on 17/11/2014 11:50:27 Edited By Dave Hopkin on 17/11/2014 11:51:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 As the absolute accuracy of this is out the window I can "play" a little in the cockpit. I am basing my model on the Chippy at Cosford, but I have no pics of the cockpit so may just base it on the one in those great pics from David W This will give me a chance to try a technique where you apply dollops of vaseline to the areas you want to "chip" once sprayed you just rub and the paint falls off Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 kicked scuffed and generally abused........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 http://www.wingsovereurope.com/chipmunk_t-22_walkaround.html The "HUD" Edited By Dave Hopkin on 17/11/2014 12:48:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Price 2 Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Well Dave. Uncle Roger lives on !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Posted by Danny Fenton on 17/11/2014 12:33:46: As the absolute accuracy of this is out the window I can "play" a little in the cockpit. I am basing my model on the Chippy at Cosford, but I have no pics of the cockpit so may just base it on the one in those great pics from David W This will give me a chance to try a technique where you apply dollops of vaseline to the areas you want to "chip" once sprayed you just rub and the paint falls off Cheers Danny or you could just keep putting your pilot in and out for 20 plus years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 I do think these models of yesteryear planes look more authentic if they are scuffed up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Thanks Danny - you need a model ATC cadet with boots to ram in and out - it could authentically put its boot through the wing fabric by the walkway too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 The only chippies I can talk about (apart from dim and distant memories of Air Cadet Joyrides) are the two based at RAF Gatow, they were workhorses and not only suffered from wear and tear from the RAF but the added abuse heaped on them by Army Liaison Officers who were part of BRIXMIS and were the freight the Chippies hauled round Berlin and the Access Corridors - those chippies were battered and scuffed to hell and never seemed to get refurbished Edited By Dave Hopkin on 17/11/2014 15:37:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 Thanks chaps yes battered seems to be the general state. I have done a bit more on the cockpit area, I was going to make a full pair of instrument panels but I am not sure I can bring myself to put in quite so much effort, to be honest i am wondering about the sliding canopy too. Its lots of work for no real gain. Anyway I foiled some sticks of soft 1/16 x 3/32 and stuck them liberally around the cockpit, then printed a phot of a panel and just losely positioned it to see whether it would suffice. What do you think? Remember all the area around will be matt black.... and if the cap fits Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 A few comments from me where's that I/p appeared from ? the cap's perfect and I have just as much trouble fitting a canopy I am satisfied with, sliding or not so either way will do for me. Looks great Danny John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 Thanks John, I have loads of Chippy panel pics that one looked about right, the angles seem to work. I have ripped that one out and used something that includes more of the edges, I think it adds a bit more, what do you reckon? Includes the VHF radio and the odd knob and edge detail...... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.