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Danny's "poor mans Spitty"


Danny Fenton
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Hi Danny my one is coming along fine, wing and all the control surfaces are done and have opted for two servo's for ailerons as i have two very light spektrum mini ones with 5kg torque on 6v and a single standard one for the flaps (hope that will do the flaps or is there a need for a flap intended servo) the only thing i have not done to the wing is fit the retaining dowel's in the leading edge untill the fus is done. I was intending to have the fus on the go by now but work has got in the way until next week , but when i start it i hope to have it done before christmas as will have a fair bit of time on my hands and hope to post a bit more regular than i have and will try to get some photo's up as well, it's just a bit hectic at the mo.

I will have a mooch around at work and see what tubing we have that i could adapt, thank's for the tip

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That's great Andy well done I look forward to seeing the progress.

I don't think the flap servo needs to be massive, if you imagine what the original would have had back in the 70's

I misled you on the hole cutters its Gaskin Soft Bore

They aren't cheap but do work much better than any home made ones I have. To be honest a rough hole hacked with a blade and then sanded out to size with a Permagrit is not that much slower. You do obviously need a line to follow

Cheers

Danny

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Dennis is right Andy you can make hole cutters from tube, however these Soft Bore cutters are thin walled, which means they cut very easily indeed.

Had a frustrating few hours, "faffing" I hate the the fact that I buy stuff, it doesn't get used straight away, but when i do come to use it the stuff gone off, sometimes even when it hasn't been opened.

I needed to glue some bulkheads inside the cowl before I cut it apart. The problem is as the cowls are done in Polyester resin they tend to "spring" and warp much more than epoxy resin cowls. So to avoid this happening I wanted to add a couple of bulkheads. Anyway making a short story long, polyester resin can only really be bonded using a polyester based adhesive. If you use traditional epoxy it will seem to stick but the joint won't be very strong. The very best glue for this is a German glue called Stabilit Express. Its very pricey but I have some..... could I find it..... no chance. So next best thing. Polyester resin with some coloidal silica mixed in. Opened the bottle of resin (brand new) and its hard inside. Okay not to be deterred i found my tin of part used David's Resin. This was thick but still runny. I mixed some up and glued in the two bulkheads.

two hours later and the stuff is still like treacle and has not set. Out with the acetone and a very messy hour cleaning all the gunk off everything.

Then of course the Stabilit Express is discovered in a previously searched drawer, am I the only one that can open a drawer four times and only actually see what i want the fifth time crook

Anyway Stabilit mixed up and applied, after an hour it is just setting, it should go off in 20 minutes

But at least it does appear to be going off, phew.

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So I guess I will be doing some more Ebay shopping tomorrow.......

Hope you guys have all had a more productive session today

Cheers

Danny

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Eamonn, you are kidding! The stuff is over a £100 a kg not that you get it in those sizes, 30g usually for about a tenner but the delivery from abroad usually Germany, will easily double that!

If you are serious I will have to go and get some!

By the way it has been said that this stuff is an equivalent but cheaper alternative...I have yet to try it.

Cheers

Danny

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Easier said than done Terry, and may all end in tears smile o

Hi David, I used the F1 bulkhead and removed the middle, just leaving a ring. And the one near the rear is simply drawing around the cowl when standing on a sheet of paper. I then reduced the circumference by about a 1/4 inch gradually checking the fit all the time. Its fiddly but I doesn't have to be exact. The Stabilit will fill the gaps, what is important is that you do not force those bulkheads into place as you will set up stresses that may spring the cowl open when it is cut.

Lets hope it works, I am toying with hinging as the full size rather than makinga removable section.

Not sure what the IC guys have in mind? a fill and drain tube hangin out the sides i guess is all they need, so no cutting? lucky blighters, David A didn't mention that in his IC v Electric article

Cheers

Danny

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That cowling access looks a bit familiar! I'll be interested what you do for hinging since I tried and gave up because the hinge line was a compound curve. I ended up using a tongue and groove plus magnets but I should have used stronger magnets because the side panel keeps coming adrift (due to the flexibility - which I need to get it in place!).

When I have finished messing around with this Magister THEN I'll look at refurbishing the Chippie and putting stronger magnets in. Not much progress on the Maggie though 'cos a) it's cold in the garage/workshop and b) I've gone down with a touch of the 'lurgy' (a cold) so haven't had much enthusiasm!

Cheers

Barry

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Thanks Barry, yes I have a plan with regard the hinges, as you say its a compound curve so they need to be offset. I will do them as per the full size

I think everybody has the dreaded lurgy at the moment, still let's hope its all cleared before the bearded one descends the chimney laden with balsa and RC Toys And no I don't mean young Tony B

I am lucky I have an indoor workshop

Cheers

Danny

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Managed just a little this evening.....

Needed to find a way to hald the cowl on and this is what I have devised, follows along the lines of Barry's Airsail build.

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A light ply section was made up and bonded in place, this doesn't touch the cowl but hardwood blocks at the front and rear do.

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This is the rear block

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I don't think the IC boys will get away with such small screws but they work fine on the electric models

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There is another block at the forward position that went in after this pic was taken.

Just for information these are the hinges that will be used for the cowl, they allow for hinges to be fitted on a compound curve.

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But we will see those come into play after i have made a similar mount for the bottom of the cowl.

Cheers

Danny

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