Max Z Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Steve, is it really required to have the LE razor sharp? I am used to rounding it, and I guess I just could not resist..... Max. Edited By Max Z on 21/10/2014 21:11:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Max , think so that sharp is better for blade spin up so dont round too much. Maybe just take the point off. Rich and others will clarify further I am sure........ Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting 1 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 My thoughts on that sharp LE section are it creates uniformity to each blade, once you round the LE you create a certain amount of positive incidence, and you could end up with each blade having different incidences even through out the length of each blade LE.......Just supposition on my part... Terry Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 22/10/2014 07:09:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
william alexander 1 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 HELP I have built an Atom Special and have had trouble getting it to fly. It tracks down the field straight and just as it lifts off it rolls hard to the left in a spectacular crash. Holding full right rudder and aileron do not make any difference. The model is built as per plans with a center of gravity 2 inches (50 mm) in front of the mast former, has a 1/64 inch (.4 mm) wedge under each blade, and the blades set square with the mast. I must be doing something wrong please help me. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Bill - I think insufficient rotor speed causes the left roll. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Flynn 1 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Bill I am sure that's it, if you trying holding the model into wind and let the blades spin up when they get up to flying speed you will hear a distinct noise, kind of a whistle you will know you are there as the blades will not seem to go any faster. I think that's a good way to see how fast the blades must go for lift off (ROG) Any other speed and you can bet it will roll to the left Once you get used to this speed it will be easy. That being said it dose take a few try's before you get it right If you notice in some of Riches videos he lets the model run down wind then turns into wind so as the model gets close to him the model (and blades) are up to flying speed. If there is a decent breeze its also easier just point the AG into wind and the blades should easily and quickly get up to speed and makes ROG much easier Hope this helps good luck Kevin CA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Bill, David is absolutely correct, left roll over on take off is caused by insufficient rotor speed. When I started playing with these things back in 2007 there wasn't anybody in the UK that I could to turn to for help so it was all suck it and see . I crashed and repaired more times than I can remember, the most common cause was the roll over to the left and too thin a blade. Take a look at this video I made on how not to do things, I had a head full of hair and was a lot slimmer too but there are a few moments when you will see me doing exactly the same. The cause was not enough head speed and me pulling back on the rotors thinking with my fixed wing head. The trick is to slow right down when moving into wind, no more than walking pace. Pull back on the rotors to help spin up, when you hear the blades whistling level of your blades and increase ground speed to a jogging pace. When the tail rises add a little more power until it leaves the ground, try hops and trim in between each. The more power you add the harder it will climb. Try not to pull back on the rotors as if it were an elevator because they are more like a big break. You could of course try a hand launch, though I would never recommend it, always best to have a helper here! Make sure they are aware that the model has to be pulling out of there hand before a launched. Any more questions just fire away? Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Nash Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Fantastic video Rich. A lot of water under the bridge since then mate. I love the video, reminds me of fun days at the field, and there are bits of mine in that grass too! lol But the difference between these two models could not be greater. I would not want to loop or roll the model in the video, but I have seen it done with the Spyro; fantastic little flyer. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting 1 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Well Rich 10 0ut 0f 10 for persistence mate, and I for one am glad you did. There's an old saying, if you have never made a mistake you have never made anything.....Good on you. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 They used to laugh at me up at the field, taking the mick and all the banter that comes along with it but we got there in the end I am also glad that I persisted at it Terry, not for the flying reasons but for the great bunch of friends I have accumulated along my gyronut time line makes every crash worth while! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Watched that video.... I hope that I can avoid most of that knowing what I know now thanks to you guys! I am about to start covering the blades, and I was wondering if there is any merit in selecting contrasting colours for top and bottom to assist in recognizing flying attitude. I plan to do the top in a bright yellow fluo colour, but I am hesitating what to use for the bottom, white or a dark colour. Any thoughts? Max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Buddling Autonuts....watch the video and learn ... ever want to see a real modeller with patience and most of all determination........ Lesson I am still learning...'rotor speed...rotor speed...rotor speed...and NEVER FORCE THE TAKE OFF (It'll roll left on you and then comes the 'funky chicken and the cyno!!!......) Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Posted by Max Z on 22/10/2014 19:48:41: Watched that video.... I hope that I can avoid most of that knowing what I know now thanks to you guys! I am about to start covering the blades, and I was wondering if there is any merit in selecting contrasting colours for top and bottom to assist in recognizing flying attitude. I plan to do the top in a bright yellow fluo colour, but I am hesitating what to use for the bottom, white or a dark colour. Any thoughts? Max. Max, Though I have never tried alternating colours on the top and bottom surfaces of blades I know a man that does do this. I am sure Chris from 'down under' will give his opinion when he surfaces and reads this. He also uses a chrome/silver effect covering which looks really effective on a blue sky background. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
william alexander 1 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Thank you all for the help in flying my Atom. Maybe I should try again on a windy day as all of my attempts have been on calm days. I have attached a photo of my Atom. Thanks again, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Rich 7 years ago....I remember those videos of your first attempts with the Dag. I think that I was also at about the same stage with my Dag....hair pulling days.....it all feels so easy these days...but not then. And re the blade colours............For me it's most important that the disc should be easy to see. I usually have three colours on the top ..giving a "target " appearance when the blades are spinning with a solid dark colour & bright tips on the underside. I want to know if the model is rolling away from me or towards me, when it's on the other side of the circuit. I also use a heli blade covering film that is available from H/King , that gives the blades an extra sparkle. Good Luck & Happy Landings Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caveman Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Hi, I'm quite keen to have a go at building the Atom and would vote for it in the 2015 Mass Build, but, the HK rotorhead is unavailable and I don't want to build the rest and then have nothing to fix the rotors to!! There has been some suggestion of alternatives but I'm not sure at what stage these are, can someone clarify the current situation, please? Thanks GDB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 After balancing and covering the blades, it is READY TO GO! Well, almost. I still need to get me some selflocking nuts to avoid seeing the rotorblades flying away in the sunset....... My take on the rotorhead: And this is how the cockpit turned out. Actually, I think it is not too bad. The pilot is a cartoon character from the 70's/'80's, who was always tinkering with stuff and creating new 'inventions', most of them useless but great fun: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Max, If it flies as well as it looks then it will fly fantastic, great job please keep us all informed of how it flies, good or bad? GDB, I have received the head parts and the guy who has cut them for me can make them/pack and send them within the UK for £5.50. This will include the wooden parts only and to confirm I am making nothing from them at all apart from maybe creating a few new gyronuts At the moment I am struggling for building time as work and family take preference, but when I can I will post a bit of a build sequence of my head. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomtom39 Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Hello Rich, Yes please. How would you like me to pay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Tom, I have not tested as yet, though I don't see any problems, I would sooner get one in the air to 'ring out' so that I know for sure its Rich proof . Just PM me once it is completed and I will forward the gents email to you, please remember that other bits will have to be purchased. Rich Edited By Richard Harris on 23/10/2014 17:32:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomtom39 Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 Look forward to it (destruction testing???) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting 1 Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 That looks champion Max, and you home brew rotor head looks the biz. Best of luck with the maiden .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Z Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Posted by nigel simkin on 17/10/2014 18:05:31: If I make the gap 14mm then I will only have this small section (the black triangle on photo) touching the blade holder is this correct? I was a bit worried about that too. Moreover, if the shim is anything less than 6 mm wide, and the blade is forced to veer forward ( in a bad landing for instance), the shim will slip off the triangular plate. By readjusting the blade to its position it will then be forced on to it again which is not desirable. I made mine a 8 mm wide strip of plywood which I tapered to a wedge by sanding it with the LE as a guide. ( I used a blade width of 52 mm like Steve did, so I also opted for a 0.8 mm shim thickness) Max. Edited By Max Z on 24/10/2014 13:20:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Stevens Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Hoping to do a bit more over the weekend - blades balanced and covered. Need to make plug for cockpit and cover fuse etc and then install the r/c gear. When tightening the blades up are the bolts left so the blades left are just rubbing on the head or slightly slacker so free to rotate freely or tighten firmly? Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting 1 Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Mike, You want your blades just free enough to move in case of a bad arrival. If you scroll back and look at the video Rich put on site you will see just how the blades react to unintended arrivals, This was in the early days of gyro flight. . Luckily for us Rich has past on his experiences and 'do's and dont's' which has enabled many a modeller to enjoy autogyros. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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