Martin Harris - Moderator Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Didn't think you were, Graham - it was in reply to Peter's earlier post... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 Have put together the tailplane - not very thrilling - also realised that this is turning a bit into "Oh look at my tool" blog - hope that gets past the mediator! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 The fin I put together with cyano doesn't seem as out of proportion now even though it is 1/2 inch thick. Am wondering how to get the foam out of the slot I have now cut. I think I will use my magic pen foam cutter, of which more later. Usefully the tailplane cut out is pre cut as it would be difficult to do accurately. This determines the incidence of the tail.I checked the line up of the wing and tailplane which waas perfect. It is of course easier to adjust the anhedral tailplane than a conventional one. Edited By Peter Garsden on 12/09/2014 21:17:00 Edited By Peter Garsden on 12/09/2014 21:18:09 Edited By Peter Garsden on 12/09/2014 21:19:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 I reached the stage of fitting the blocks of veneer covered foam to the tailplane and fin. They had to be fitted to shape so as to take away the area now taken up wite the tailplane and fin. Keith bought me at very little cost a profile maker out of metal rods. Very handy. I then measured the angle with my handy angle tool - to all you experienced engineers this is tedious no doubt, but not to me. So here are the photos. The parts have fitted quite well, but still need a bit of filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 I learned from the JP blog that it is much easier to cover parts before gluing than after - particularly fin and tailplane. So useful to have these tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Question - what is the best way to cut plastic like these moulded parts - it is a nightmare because if you cut a bit too far the part is ruined. I have always been nervous about canopies. The way I do it is to cut carefully with scissors up to the line, then carve gently with a sharp balsa knife, then file the rest off with a rough file. My recent birthday present of tungsten carbide tools have been invaluable to tackle inside curves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 You can see that I used some off cuts to create a tab in order to help join the two halves together in that the edges are less than .5mm thick - nothing to glue to. Doesn't say anything in the instructions - so just as well I have read it somewhere. Also thought I would try out a new product from Deluxe Materials - such a great range of products - cryano gel filler. Works OK eg to fill a gap down the side of the fin, and here where the join is not quite right all the way round. Very easy to file too much plastic away or indeed tear it slightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Re canopy - this is the file I used - problem is that if you make contact wth the sides when taking off the excess you get a scratch which is unsightly. Below also shown are the headrests with the second layer of Wonderfill Filler. Meant to be more flexible and really for foam. Seems to work on plastic which of course is also flexible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 Some great progress Pete, looking good. I like the little profile gauge tool, very handy size - do you know where that came from? Covering looks good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 The profile tool is brilliant. It is made by Amtech and is about 1.50. I think Keith got it from Aldi but you can get the equivalent online or from any tool suppliers. Re covering, must not forget balsaloc otherwise solarfilm won't stick to veneer. Now put all the gear and pilots in. Coming on. I have to admit that I have put the Jet Provost cockpit layout in this just because it fitted. Don't tell anyone. Edited By Peter Garsden on 20/09/2014 20:28:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 20, 2014 Author Share Posted September 20, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve McLaren Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 That's looking great Peter. Do you think it'll be ready for the 10th? I've given up hope for my Gnat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Peter what a transformation with the nose sanded and cockpit in, brilliant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 26, 2014 Author Share Posted September 26, 2014 Have now sanded down the wing courtesy of my brilliant Proxxon mini sander. Definitely a must have. I also used the tried and tested method recommended in the JP Mass Build Blog of covering the veneer with masking tape to stop the plane taking chunks out of it. I did see another method suggested by Ton Van Musteren of putting masking tape over half of the piane and slicing from the wing outwards to take off the excess from either leading or trailing edge. Much easier to get it flat using either of these methods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 26, 2014 Author Share Posted September 26, 2014 I have adapted and added to my servo retaining method - have also put a sheet of 1/16th ply not shown in this photo to hold the top of the servo down. Hope it will work. The plan is old and assumes you will use just one servo. As I have decided against flaps, I have enlarged the ailerons from 10" long to 12" - won't my wife be pleased? (hope that gets past the moderator!) I am also using two servos so I can programme airbrakes into a switch about 20mm up aileron on both sides and say 3mm down elevator. Works brilliantly on my JP and Alpha Jet. At the Orme they just floated down from height and landed. As I have said I am not using the flaps as recommended as I am concerned that they would get damaged or wreck the servo if I landed with them 60 degrees down with the wing being flat underneath. Don't know if it is the right decision. It makes the cost about £30 less and the fitting easier. I was worried that the servo control rods would bind on the fuselage plywood wing nut plate. Have heard from Tim at Model Markings that the decals should arrrive next week - all for £10 plus P&P - what a bargain. Why not check him out - www.modelmarkings.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Coming on Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Over the weekend I put the red Solarfilm top and bottom of the fuselage including the very tricky bits either side of the fin. I used the profiling tool I showed above to mark the profile of the fin, which was very handy. Still a few wrinkles over the jet outlet at the back, but nothing serious. The exhaust gas fumes will no doubt smooth that out! This is the first veneer application I have first applied balsaloc to and wow what a difference - so much easier to make it stick. I remember Phil complaining that his orange red was slightly see through and not dense enough. This is also true of the standard red I am using. It makes me more apprehensive about drawing lines on the wood. I have to stick the ABS Plastic Jets to the sides of the fuselage and can't work out how to do the film covering? Should I cover the jets before sticking them to the sides - I think so as getting solarfilm down the sides will be a nightmare. Should I cover the sides first then apply them over the top? I am worried that the glue won't adhere properly - I could rough it up first? It would make covering so much easier. You can see that I have marked the position of the jets in anticipation. What do you think chaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted September 30, 2014 Author Share Posted September 30, 2014 Back to the wings. The front wing dowel is simply attached by cutting a slot in the leading edge. I was worried that it wouldn't be strong enough with just glue and wondered about inserting a cross member of 1/16" ply, then realised that this was for built up wings where everything was not held in place by foam. So how to cut out the slot - it is 1.5" deep which is deeper than my razor saw - I also had to make the same depth of cuts in my balsa block - so how to do it - then I remembered the trusty Irwin Japanese saw which I usually use for cutting blue foam - fine toothed - did a brilliant job as you can see. Also cut the hole in the block dead straight with the pillar drill - how did I ever do without these tools? Last night put the fibreglass bandage one side of the wing - will do the other tonight The idea is that you offer the wing to the fuselage, screw in the 6mm bolt, which is the thickness shown on the plan - not supplied so has to be purchased - protect the front of the wing saddle and the top with plastic then leave the block glue to set in situ. That way the block can slide up and down into position - clever idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 That is a clever method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 Yeah clever that Pete - a good way of guaranteeing a perfect alignment on the wing dowel - nice one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kettle 1 Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 Yes I like that idea as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 Bit of progress last night. Was thinking about control horns and making them less intrusive. On the P51D Mustang that is half built the designer uses pieces of 1/16" ply, which can be camoflauged in Solarfilm. I have heard people using circuit board, so I thought I would buy some circuit board which is just thin fibreglass and try it. I cut out some horns which I will stick into slots through the control surfaces and cover in film. I could of course use conventional horns, which, after all are bolted through the surface and therefore arguably more stable. I might put some pieces of 1/32 ply either side to give a better key. This is what I cut out with my marvellous Dremmel Fret Saw tool, which I now use for balsa as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 2, 2014 Author Share Posted October 2, 2014 Was also thinking about how to hinge the ailerons. I decided to use white Solartex as I had some left over from the Vulcan I built. It seems a good system, better than putting mylar hinges very close to the edge of a top hinged control surface. I ironed on the Solartex top and bottom which worked well. It doesn't shrink a lot like Solarfilm. Also a better surface to iron Solarfilm over the top. I have hinged the elevators and rudder with sloping faces at each edge with mylar hinges to join in the middle. I have used the type with rough surfaces (rather than smooth) which stick a lot better. I am, however going to use epoxy to fix them rather than superglue to give me more time to position them. I have been caught too often with Cryano because it grabs before you have got the control surfaces in position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 I am thinking that I will finish with time to spare - maybe. Decals have arrived from Model Markings. Have drilled the hole for the wing bolt and installed the nut in the ply plate. I am using 6mm as per plan. It is a heft wing. The hole, however, goes through the balsa of the trailing edge. It does not recommend any reinforcement. I thought it would be an accident waiting to happen. One heavy landing and the bolt is bound to pull through - particularly with it landing on heather not smooth grass - remember this is designed for a .61 upfront. So using the experience of the JP, I have made two pieces of 1/16th and 1/32 ply for top and bottom of the wing to strengthen it. I think this is a much needed amendment. And yes I know it is a crappy hole and that you should drill from both sides - am covering up the mess with the ply - the other side is OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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