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BAE Hawk - Skyways Models


Peter Garsden
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The snakes on this model are at an angle, and the tailplane in particular is anhedral, thus the plan recommends ball joints to attach the control snakes as can be seen here - not clicked in yet to await the fixing of the servo. You can also see the camouflauged circuit board control horn which works well.

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One can see above how transparent the Solarfilm is - one can see the grey plastic tailcone and where the join is - not good.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 06/10/2014 12:05:50

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I know I posed the question as to whether I should cover the sides before gluing on the jets. I opted to cover it, and then preparte the surface to glue to. I think it was the right decision. You can see that I have painted the surface with Prymol. One can see how it makes the surface matt ready for either recovering or painting, or indeed glueing to.

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One can above that there is a snake for each elevator, which has to be joined somehow with one feed going to the servo. I saw this handy joiner and ordered it. Unfortunately, when it arrived it was for 3mm studs and sleeves and could not be adapted for my 2mm system. It is American and they talk of 4-40 and 2-56 instead of using millmetres - so beware.

So I had to scrap it and come up with something else. I looked in my bits box and found some brass strip, so I drilled some 2mm holes in them, opened them out slightly with a round needle file, and managed to force the 2mm steel studs to thread the holes. They now seem secure, as you can see from the photo below.

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I am very annoyed with myself actually. I had the front windscreen to apply. It was under such tension to get it round the bend that I decided to use cryano glue. I had read that the fumes it gave caused blooming, but I didn't think it would be as bad as it has turned out. It looks awful, but there is nothing I can do now

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I am fairly sure I will be able to complete by weekend but there is still a lot of work to do. I have attached the wind ready to fit the jets. Obviously there is the under wing fairings and the jets to do, then the wing covering and the trim to cut and fit.

I have also decided the redo the aileron servo fittings. It just won't work fitting them on their side, side by side as previously shown. I am going to mount them as suggested in the plan - vertically with a smaller hole right through the wing on bearers. Much neater. I will have to cover the existing hole at each side and put in new bulkheads to line the edges. I will also have to widen the hole slightly. Won't be too difficult. The servo cable fitting is too high and won't work as it is configured at the moment.

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Finally, there are some trim bits which one cuts out of a polycarbonate sheet supplied eg the aerial, the wing strakes, and the tail strakes.. I decided to glue the pattern to the backing sheet, and then cut out with my Dremmel Fret Saw. Tonight's job maybe.

One can see how the jets are supplied. One has to cut the ABS plastic parts carefully file them to size, and superglue them together with little tabs. I read about this system in an article about pilots which come in two halves. It gives the glue something to key to.

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Great weekend at the Orme. Thanks Phil as usual for the great organisation. Great company, good laugh, but no wind - shame. Some good thermalling this morning and good flying with my very light Vulcan bomber yesterday.

Have not had the time to post any pictures so far, as was up tiill 2am on Friday trying to finish.

This picture shows my revised aileron servo installation which goes right throught the wing and is much neater. There is a hatch which fits over the top. This is the underneath of the wing. It was commented that having aileron horns under the wing may be asking for trouble but we will see.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Oh dear dear dear dear me - what a day's flying - went up to the Gate up Leek to fly three models. My Hawk which went first, then my Voltij, then the JP - never flew the JP because the wind became very gusty and about 30mph, also had to get back because Keith also crashed his Middle Phase and had nothing else to fly.

When I arrived the wind was about 20mph and smooth - ideal for flying the Hawk, though the slope really isn't up to it - needs the Orme really. I launched, and everything was fine. It was freezing and snow on the ground, so I decided to land, which I did easily - great landing - a greaser. I then decided to fly as I was being a wimp. So I launched again - nothing. No control at all. It had switched itself off somehow - still don't know how. Should I have done another pre-flight test when it had just been working fine? The switch is a pull a wire for on and push off for on.

The model I thought was just going to land, then the gust caught it, and cartwheeled it snapping the fuselage in two,, snapping off a tailplane, cracking the canopy, and cracking one wing. I was really annoyed but pleased that it wasn't pilot error. Annnoying though. These are the pictures:-

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Looking on the bright side what are the positives:-

  1. I have just finished the Mustang and have nothing on the bench - not started the Tornado yet so am "in between girlfriends"
  2. The fuselage is foam and will glue together quite easily.
  3. The crack on the wing will glue together easily with some reinforcement from a ply brace.
  4. I had used cryano under the canopy at the front and it looked awful with white blooming which I can now clean. Phil had said replace the front bit which is separate. I can do that now - also I had melted part of it with my iron, so ti probably will look better than it did when finished.
  5. It is repairable
  6. I'm going to a funeral on Wednesday so it could be a lot worse - family relative that is not an aeroplane.

The thing I am worried about is that it took the back off my receiver which may be damaged. Also I don't know how it managed to switch itself off. I checked the switch after the accident and it was still switched off. I thought that the landing had somehow switched it off, so how can I stop it happening again? I may be an electric fault somewhere but we will see.

Edited By Peter Garsden on 11/01/2015 20:31:02

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Sorry to see the results of that Pete - Im sure you'll soon have it patched up and looking better than ever!

I hope the Rx proves to operate OK - I've had the covers knocked off one of mine in a crunch once before, following a good visual inspection for impact damage I replaced the cover and gave it a thorough trial run on the bench - its all worked fine but obviously I would still advise a lengthy trial on the bench before you recommit yours to a model.

As for the switch - if you're in any doubt, simply replace it. Why risk a model for a piece of kit costing you less than a fiver? What dictated the need for the pull/push arrangement - just scale finesse? Don't take the risk - buy yourself a conventional switch and mount it on the top just behind the canopy - it wont get any accidental toggling up there during the launch process.

Edited By Phil Cooke on 11/01/2015 22:22:43

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Bummer Pete. Im with Phil on those recommendations - .y old crunchie hawk suffered several mishaps over the years including midairs and almost write offs but almost always ended up better after the repairs! I fitted my radio switch in one of the engine intakes - which were blanked off - all painted black it was damn near invisible.
Good luck with the repair
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