Danny Fenton Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Excellent! glad they fit. I will say that I found the holes for the 10ba screws were a little close to the surface, and when fitting the screws it could mean a little "easing" of the sheeting/capping. Just seen your thread heading picture, Baaa-rmy Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 11/11/2014 09:59:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 I did notice that holes are close, I'll be using 2mm socket head bolts , ... I'll struggle with fitting them...fat fingers me.. but it'l be done Cheers Danny baa ram ewe... secret password Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 The other side flap/ailerons done , now the U/C blocks, reading on "the build" someone commented of the fixing bolts that go though the ribs, hard landings the bolts may end up crushing the balsa/ ply ribs.... so I may eleviate that "maybe happening" by removing the balsa from between the ply, at the bolt fixing position and epoxy in a piece of 1/8" ply, if I had of noticed that at the start I could have built it in. I may not glue in the pieces until after the wire is bent and in situ, to allow the 1/8" ply holes to be drilled through, I will add some pic's until then Baa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 After much brain cell usage, I decided to go away from the plan U/C wire mounting and drill through the new blocks and secure them laying in a groove created by chamfering the 2 pieces of the block Cheers Baa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 I'm thinking hard about this. (I've noticed also a reference in the Airsail threads to moving it forward a touch as well because of a tendency to nose over, which I suppose is par for the course with this general type of aircraft.) I might alter mine, I might not. There's an awful lot of shock absorption in a torsion bar and it distributes the load very well, so it might not be a big issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Perhaps it is the give that causes the issue Colin? The minute it flexes back then over she goes. I do find a slow large volume of air over the elevator using a large prop gives better control against nosing over, than the small but fast moving air column from a smaller higher revving prop.CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 You might be right Danny. I haven't looked to see how the Airsail u/c is set up. I've no doubt that regardless, the key to this is keeping a bit of power on during landing. One reason I chose the OS62 is that a 14x6 prop is a standard size for it, which is quite good for a 10cc motor, even a four stroke. I might even do my u/c as plan, although perhaps not using the tin clips. However, I will be using the HK oleos, they look ok to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 The u/c position looks alright to me, almost on the leading edge and well in front of c.g, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Think you're right John. Danny's comment about bending back is probably right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 The position of the U/C is exactly as per plan, the ft. block has been cut into the ribs, so it should behave the same as if using the tin plate idea. Possible only downfall will be the fact that the wire locking pin will be drilled though the centre on the 2 blocks altho underneath the hole will be another short piece crossways, for the pin to go though and that will also be secured to R1 . Baa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 Mail man came last night, elevator coupling (x4 ) nicely packed from Balsa mart, albeit soft soldered, well done, should be no worries and the dash panels from Dylan, very nice,...... now where did I put that PDF for the instruments happy Shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 After studying the positioning of the control horns, I've made an management decision, to change the horn postions and have them coming out of the bottom of the flaps and ailerons, reason being that the planned exits are way to close to the ribs for me and also i am using separate servos and I'll need to have adjustment outside of the wing. Ive added another rib and left-over F/G for the new horn, as the bottom of my flying surfaces is sheeted I had to cut into it and slip in the new bits, bit rough at the mo, but will clean up ok Cheers Baa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Hi Barry the moment coupling will be extremely short, you sure there is enough?CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Yea Danny checked that out, aileron deflection will be around 3/4" from neutral I trial fitted the aileron for clearance, works out to be 1/16" on the bottom, so I am happy with that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Not a lot done on the chippy, lately, Kitchen to finish, 1 bedroom had a new ceiling, sheep to attend to and various other jobs, but back at it again, ... wing centre section underside.... I added another brace between ribs W1, to give the sheeting a little more substance to sit on... see pics The Fuz rear wing fillets are a bit fiddly to fit, it all seems to rely on where the flaps sit Baaa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Here is my rendition of the wing fairing, after setting the flaps at the "up" position I built the rear of the fillet to match up with the flaps, looks ok to me, the blue colour is auto spray putty, most of it ends up on the floor, now to the fin and rudder, my tailwheel will exist underneath the rudder hinge line. Using the wire to coupled up the rudder, the nyrod will drive that from the bottom, simple but not very scale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nev Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Wing fairing looks good Barry, so does the rest. It's going to come up nice. Nev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Thx Nev,, still a loooonnnngg way to go Baa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Like your fairing Barry John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Well after a holiday in Thailand, I'm back at it, the rear feathers are now in place, faired in. working on the wing final fixings, and then covering, as the Fuz has come up well, and I'm not the best at covering, I think I will paint it. Baa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Another look at the plan shows a 1/4" infill behind formers 1 and 2 , I thought that laying the piece on top of the former bracing was a better bet, and instead of balsa, 1/8" ply would add a little bit more strength, using 15min epoxy. I can fix the throttle servo to it and the onboard glow unit as well Using a 4st, and no need for a muffler, the exhaust pipe can be directed away from these units, with the size of the cowl opening and the cowl gap on the bottom, there should be ample amount of cool air going past them.Iv'e coated that whole aera with F/G so as to stop fuel leakage soften up the wood and glue joints Instrument dials are the next thing to find, any help?? Baa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.A. Barry Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 Thanks to the chip shop thread Dials where found, I fitted up the cockpit frame work and added the dials there will be no full cockpit detail, just a bust of the pilots and the dashs, canopy need a good claen before it's secured and to have a paint job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Coming on Barry John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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