Danny Fenton Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 The problem with trimming out a twist using a surface deflection is that the aileron trim will change with airspeed. So if you trim for level flight at cruise, it may need a different setting for slow flight ie approach. A flight mode for slow flight would work, but I bet it wont need much.CheersDannyEdited By Danny Fenton on 07/04/2015 18:50:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 You're right Danny, but perhaps that makes it more scale. When you're flying full size you re-trim pretty much every time you do anything! (Well, the elevator anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 Its been a while since anybuilding on the chippy has been done. Although I am pleased to say that I have managed to start flying on regular basis (weather permitting). This has meant quite a lot of small jobs on old airframes to get them airworthy not to mention getting engines to run. Spent an awful lot of time getting some 4c to run, but we got there in the end. Have maiden the legionnaire, must say the more I fly the more I enjoy it. Slight deviation from the plan with regards the undercarriage. I have made P clips from brass and bushed the hard wood block with some brass tube I mentioned in an earlier post that slight warp in one of the panels. I have since damped the panel and re-pinned flat to the board and it is within 1.5mm, so very pleased. I was a little nervous as the glue is not water proof and on another project found out that the wood only as to be damp!!! Wing now ready for sheeting, the addition of the support blocks certainly helped to give some rigidity to the wing to allow sheeting (as per Danny' instructions) Hope to get the wing sheeted and centre section done by the end of the month. Then it will be flaps and ailerons next. A little way behind some (well a lot) but still going. SW Edited By Silver Wolf on 08/11/2015 19:26:57 Edited By Silver Wolf on 08/11/2015 19:27:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Looks very neat SW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted November 22, 2015 Author Share Posted November 22, 2015 Started on Centre section and noticed that 1/4” balsa parts that we have to cut were not at 90°, so modified to suit also needed to add 1/16” to B3. Marked the centre of B4 and added the two 1/4” TE extensions, whilst checking the fit noticed that there seems to be a slight misalignment with the two R1 ribs. So I measured and marked the centre of LE & TE. With these and the centre of B4 marked, this ensured that the TE of the centre section is correct and should make wing alignment to front and rear of fuselage less fraught. Decided to have a hard wood block with a balsa top section for wing bolt and have used a bit of triangle stock on the TE as this seemed a high stress area with B4 Triangle stock to reduce high stress area Ready for sheeting, will leave LE sheeting until wing fixing determined Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Looking good, this area on mine got a bit messy when I sheeted this area, I definitely should have waited until the wing was on the fuselage before sheeting the rear underside to ensure the lines flowed into the fuselage. Another error on my part was not fixing a dummy flap and aileron rib so that you know exactly where the trailing edge is, there is no reference for the ailerons, wing tips or wing fairings to allign to. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 Made a start on flap/ailerons, managed to source some brass tube of correct size. Cut tube with Stanley knife after sliding over some 16swg piano wire. Drilled out horns and hinges with 1.9mm drill then spot of thin cyno. Decided to build the flap and aileron as one! thought that would help with keeping everything aligned for fitting hinges? However even though it was built flat and pinned to the board we still managed to build in some washout (warped). Possibly due to the change in leading edge angle? Will build left hand side and see where we are at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Muckley Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Hi SW. i had the same problem with the warp and i built mine separately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 Hi Andy, What did you do with them in the end? SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nev Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Hi SW, my flaps are the same. There is a bit about them in my build but I came to the conclusion that they are supposed to be like that and left them as built as they seem to match the wing. It's unavoidable if you use the cut parts as all the rib angles get progressively steeper as you go down the wing. Good looking build so far. Nev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Muckley Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Hi S.W. I, like Nev, have left them as built, as Nev said they match the wing and as it's washout it's not a bad thing. When you assemble the ailerons and flaps to the wing all looks fine, it just looks wrong when laying on a flat surface. Hope that makes sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Thanks Nev & Andy, the good news is that both left & right flap/ailerons are the same (well very nearly). Looking down the length of the wing the washout does appear to be noticeable, if that was designed that way, then a clever bit of design. Really seem to be struggling to get into any building, doesn't help having some other hobbies! Will start getting the flap linkage done next, should be interesting as I have never had a model with flaps before. Really will try to get these done in the next week as I will not be able to get into loft after next week for a while. Wishing everyone a happy New Year Especially those up north SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Muckley Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Happy new year to you too. My build will start again in around 8 weeks, unless i get chance to do a bit in the spare room as new workshop being built Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Coming on well though SW, good to see you doing a bit on it Happy new year CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 Made a start on flaps, with no fixed for location for the position decided to make jig for bottom wing surface. It also helps clearing the under carriage legs for work bench. Bell cranks fitted, both hopefully at the same angle! Formed the first z bend for flaps, first time this has happened when cold bending. I have annealed the wire and it as formed as per expectations, will harden and temper once finished. Brings back memories of been an apprentice in the mid seventies. SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Muckley Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Making good progress there S.W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nev Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Never seen one fracture like that before SW although I have snapped them before. I didn't bother with z's on my one just left them with a right angle bend and left the stubs just long enough so they couldn't unhook. Looking good so far. Nev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 The advice when cold working steel is to not bend to a radius of less than three times the steel thickness, otherwise there is a risk of strain-age embrittlement causing it to crack just like that. The higher the steel strength, the higher the risk. In practice we do bend tighter than that and usually get away with it, but the steel is work hardened and under heavy load would probably fracture. In practice, the loads we create aren't high, but that is what is happening. I've done mine with separate ailerons in the wings, which made a lot of work and wasn't really necessary. I've used z-bends on the servos and clevises on the control surfaces. Did you pick up on the problem with rapid wear in the fibre-glass hinges? Danny is putting in brass bushes, I've glued thin steel washers onto mine, to act as bearing surfaces for the hinge bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Thanks for the heads up with the wear problem, I did manage to pick it up. It is one of the benefits of being behind everyone else, although it won't stop me making some of the same mistakes. I think that I will also use washers, always had it drummed into me when I was an apprentice, never, never without a washer. Seemed to take an age to get the correct set up on the TX for the flap movement (never did like the programming on the ff9). The ailerons were even worse, could not get each side to be the same. Eventually got there, but wasted a lot of time and caused some hanger rash. Very frustrating but at least lessons learned. Also reacquainted my self with bakers fluid, that just made the soldering so much easier. Well wing almost done, requires shrouds, LE, wing tips, and top centre sheeting. Weight at the moment is 680g including servos, so quite pleased. Not sure if I qualify for a "I survived a Dennis Bryant wing" tee shirt. Will also need some shear webbing as I noticed that there was some torsional twist when I fitted the incidence meter on the wing tips. SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Nice job, you are over the worst...... I like the "I survived a Dennis Bryant Wing" tee shirt idea Though perhaps a polo..... I know a man..... how many shall I order? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 Wear them at Greenacres if enough interest. Intend to replace wing dowels with steel cap head, what size. Normally use M5 or M6 slotted nylon, but was thinking about using M4 steal. Will be running a 4c in it hopefully a laser 80 Any thoughts chaps? Edited By Silver Wolf on 13/02/2016 18:17:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Have decided to use 4mm cap heads for the wing retention. Formers F2-F7 fitted to crutch. Went to the balsa store only to find that there is no suitable wood, most of the wood is from a stalled Brian Taylor project. Most of his sheeting is 1/16, so off to order some 1/8th from Balsa cabin. While waiting for the that I will ponder on engine, I think it is going to be a Laser, not sure if it will be the .70 or the .80 SW Edited By Silver Wolf on 21/02/2016 19:57:05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Balsa store now replenished with fresh wood from Balsa Cabin, very good and friendly service. Doublers and formers glued ready for some planking. I can accept that the formers may need some modification to allow them to be central but am a little concerned that I have had to add wood to formers to ensure a straight edge. However despite this everything appears to be central and true, just hope that upper fuselage will match! Hope to get most of the planking done this weekend, although it looks like it is flying weather tomorrow. SW Edited By Silver Wolf on 05/03/2016 12:39:42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 Well lower fuselage has been planked and had a rough sand. The fit of G2 will require a little bit of fettling, intend to remove a little from G2 where it meets the fuselage sides but want to keep the shape of G2 and add a little to the bottome of the fuselage to make up the difference. However I need to check the wing incidence as the fit to the wing needs a lot more work to get it to fit. I will get G2 correct and glued to the fuselage first then get the wing to match and at the correct angle. SW Edited By Silver Wolf on 01/05/2016 15:40:05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Posted by Silver Wolf on 03/01/2016 19:55:12: Made a start on flaps, with no fixed for location for the position decided to make jig for bottom wing surface. It also helps clearing the under carriage legs for work bench. Bell cranks fitted, both hopefully at the same angle! Formed the first z bend for flaps, first time this has happened when cold bending. I have annealed the wire and it as formed as per expectations, will harden and temper once finished. Brings back memories of been an apprentice in the mid seventies. Radius too tight mare Bend round a rod in the vice next time .You should recall how to do that He He Having bent the z now it should be work hardened enough to not need further treatment SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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