Silver Wolf Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 It's been a while since last had a chance to do some building for various reasons. Was getting a little frustrated with lack of progress, it seemed to take an age to get fin and rudder complete. I felt the same way about the tail plane and elevator. So have decided to move onto the wing to try and move the project along. Filled the wing rear spar with Roket powder, this seems to have worked quite well and do not think it will need any additional beefing up! At present just sorting through a few tasks in readiness for the wing build and have noticed that wood I intend to use for the undercarriage mounting blocks is spruce rather than beech. Does anyone have any misgivings with using spruce for this task? SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Spruce is maybe a little heavier than Beech, any landing bad enough to break either will destoy the wing anyway S.W. I used spruce myself was all I had John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Quite happy to go with the spruce for the undercarriage, but not to sure about the main spar brace is a little warped, not to sure if this straighten out once the ribs and spars are in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Checked the dihedral brace and a little sanding has given a reasonable starting point. Holes for control rods, doublers and building tabs added to all rib. Rear spar glued and filled Glued the lower spar to the first dihedral brace, this is a starting point. Used straight edge as a guide to pin spar, I use dress making pins and a panel pin hammer for securing the main spar I think that the warp in the dihedral brace will be removed once the other spar and ribs are in place! Hope to get a start on the wing over the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Good to see you cracking on SW, that's quite a warp in that dihedral brace! Hopefully it will sort itself out with some additional structure around it Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nev Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Hi SW, good logical start. My braces looked like that to but straightend out nicely when glued in place. The first panel goes together quite quickly once you have the spars pinned down, it's the second half where you start scratching your head because you don't have the printed plan to work off but I'm sure it won't be a problem. Nev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I mentioned a while ago that I wetted my plan with meths and it went transparent, so I was able to build on either side of it. Weeks later the print is still visible on both sides, so I can recommend it as a working solution for the wing build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 Gents, thanks for the replies it is encouraging that the warp should build out. I think that this may be part of the reason that I have not been in a hurry to start the wing. Although I have traced the wing for the LH panel I may just try the meths, as it should be more accurate. A few words of encouragement do really help get things moving. Well of up to the loft, will start with a dry run and do any final fettling, just need to decide on what to listen too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 My brace was bent before gluing as well, all those ribs will sort it John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 The basic for the RH wing panel now complete. Managed to use the large permagrit bar, did wonder if I would ever find a use for it. Was a little concerned with the angle as I could only get 52mm measured under rib 18. However checked the length of spar and double checked using simple trig and at 52mm this gives me 3.925 degrees. There is a very small amount of warp starting from rib 15/16, not overly concerned as this is producing a very small amount of washout. It may well disappear once the panel is re-pinned to board for sheeting. Needed to alter quite a few of the ribs to allow the top spar to line up with lower spar. Without this been done the panel would be warped. Guess who didn't look for B1. Will revisit RH panel to sheet top and then profile under side once centre and LH panel built. I intend to add the centre section next then will build LH panel onto the centre. I will leave the shroud etc off until the hinges for flaps and ailerons are done. Definitely prefer to build three sections then assemble, it allows much more freedom to ensure everything is correct. With all the additional work to get spar and ribs to fit, not to mention adjusting the dihedral brace it seem to take an age to get this far with the wing. However if the centre and other panel turn out like the LH I will be pleased and should have a reasonable base to finish the wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Looking good S.W, I wish I had left the shroud till aileron/flap was done would have made the fitting/shaping easier John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 Both wing panels built but only top surface sheeted I have checked the measurements for LE, main spar and TE. The main spar is ok but the LH LE is 1.5 lower than the RH and the TE is 2mm higher than the RH. I think that the problem is with the RH panel, I may attempt to correct this when I sheet the underside. If this does not happen then I think that a little bit of trim applied to the ailerons should sort it out. Will start to take a look at the under carriage next. SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I made a slight error with my undercarriage, before sealing access add the oleos to check alignment....Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Still awaiting oleos from HK first set never arrived! I intend to build under carriage as per plan then trim to suit oleos if they arrive. If they don't turn up then will look for an alternative or may just go with standard piano wire legs. just out of interest what have people used for the retention straps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 This is it Silver Wolf. I've used brass sheet for the straps, tin-plate will do as well. (Sorry for the foot in the picture, I was still in pyjamas and dressing gown)! I've used shortened wire legs and ground a flat as in photo one. The oleos are drilled and tapped to take grub screws, as in photo two. I think Danny's done this as well. One screw would be enough, but I've used two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Thanks Colin, I think that I may have some brass sheet lying around. like the idea of the triangle section between under carriage ribs and LE. Was considering mounting the front part of the leg in hard wood block with a piece of tube rather than P clip. Yours is getting along quite nicely. Regards SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Thanks Silver Wolf. Because I'm nervous and an inconsistent lander, I've generally beefed up the undercarriage bearing structure. Although I've saved weight elsewhere in the structure, I've added it in one or two places for the sake of durability. The U/C I think is open to interpretation based on personal preferences and what you have lying around. There are many ways to skin a cat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Not sure if you saw my note earlier SW. Because I bent my undercarriage to plan I assumed it would be straight when viewed head on, allowing for the dihedral. You cannot tell when the undercarriage is just short stubs, make sure you temporarily fit some legs so you can check they are correct before access to the piano wire is lost. You may need to bend it slightly. I am forbidding anybody to take a "head-on" picture of mine Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I can't imagine what mine will look like from head-on (or sideways), once I have landed it a couple of times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Well there is that! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Thanks for the heads up. I will make legs as per plan and adjust where needed. More than likely to post photo before final install, as once the sheeting is added then a lot of work to try and rectify any problems. Does any see any problem with leaving the little bit of offset in the wing build mentioned earlier in blog? personally think that it should not affect general flying overall to much, as not expecting to do any precision aerobatics. SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Were you referring to a touch of wash-out caused by differences in the heights of the leading and trailing edges you mentioned before? If so it will be the normal rule, as long as it is wash-out and not wash-in and is symmetrical both sides, it will be fine. If it's a millimetre or two different between the sides, I can't see it being more than a trimming issue really. I'd be loathe about measuring mine up in too precise a fashion, I might frighten myself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Colin, it would appear that it is only in one panel, but it is only a small amount 2 or 3 mm. May try and correct when I sheet underside. Pretty sure that a little bit of trim on test flight should sought it out asking as rest of airframe is true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 It all feels quite flimsy till sheeted SW so chances are you'll be able to sort it, and I dare say if we all measured up with tools you used we wouldn't find perfection, it'll be o.k. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 It seems we are all agreed then, it's not anything to worry about. Looking at mine, that's exactly what I want to hear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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