Ted Ward1 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Help please, What sort of adaptor lead do I need to convert this model from a two battery set-up to one battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Read 2 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Depends why you need to do this. If it is to increase capacity then connect in parallel with + connected to + and - to - If it is to increase voltage then connect in series with one of the + on pack 1 connected to - on pack 2. Its a simple task to make up an adapter lead. Take them apart though to charge IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Read 2 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Here is a parallel lead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Read 2 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Series lead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Not sure why you would want to go from a two battery to a one battery set up? Both of the diagrams above are 100% BUT are for placing two batteries in a model not one Does the model have one ESC or two? If there is one, then the ESC power leads will go straight into the battery plug - you may need an adaptor there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Ward1 Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 There are 4 motors and 4 esc's, but I am not quite sure of the existing wiring on the model, I think one battery operates the two inboard motors and the second operates the other two. Both batteries are 3s 2200 mah All I wanted to do is to have one battery 3s at around 4000 mah instead of the two 2200 mah ie one battery to plug in, instead of two, if it is possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Read 2 Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Just make the adapor up as above, but battery becomes speed controller and vise versa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Edward You can wire up 4 motors and 4 ESCs to one battery no problem. You just need the reverse of the above diagrams.- a connector that picks up the existing two connectors that go to the batteries and combines them into a single plug for the socket on the battery. I assume you have checked the 4000mAh will fit. Note you would be loosing 10% battery capacity compared to using two 2200mAh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 If its 4 separate escs, each with its own Deans plug, then try this: Ebay If its two pairs of escs, each pair sharing one deans, then try this: ebay Edited By Phil Green on 12/11/2014 15:29:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Ward1 Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 I must admit those adaptor plugs on ebay look the biz, and just what I need, as my soldering skill are what you would call Zero. Thanks to all who have advised on this issue, Just one final point, would there be any current draw issues using the one battery?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 I'm assuming it for a quad so the length of the wiring harness isn't going to be huge, and the current draw isn't going to be huge either, so while the technically correct answer is yes there will be power losses in the circuit (and the existing 2 battery set up is included in that) any difference (assuming no high resistance elements are introduced) will be very marginal and not worth worrying about The only thing to check is the wiring that you will be retaining between the battery and where they divide up to feed each ESC will be carrying twice the current - as long as the wires are man enough to cope with that then I wouldnt anticipate any problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamWh Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 If the leads from the battery to the ESCs are long you will need to add capacitors at the recommended intervals (I think every 20cm but this may not be right). If you don't, the capacitors on the escs may burn out due to high ripple currents in these wires. I think it is 3000uF you have to use, rated above your battery voltage (say 50v to be safe), but you'd need to check by searching this forum or t'net. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Norton Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 3000uF is quite a bit higher than you need and would be quite physically large at 50v. Something like 470 or even 330uF will be fine though they should be low ESR ones. If you're only using a 3 cell pack then 25v rated ones will be more than adequate. A pack of 4 can be had from your favourite online auction site for under 2 quid. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Posted by Dave Hopkin on 12/11/2014 16:24:47: I'm assuming it for a quad Erm.... "HK b17 Flying Fortress Bomber" it says on my screen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Ward1 Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Sorry lads, you have lost me with all this technical stuff, i.e. capacitors, ripple effect etc. all I know is that there are 4 motors, 4 speed controllers and it all end up in the battery area with two deans type plugs. I suppose if anyone has any idea about the wiring on this model or an actual wiring diagram, it would help. Don't want to take the model apart to check this myself. But please be gentle with a 72 year old, with all the technical stuff, too late in the day for me to take a course in electrical engineering. Thanks anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 There is no need for capacitors in this instance Edward - your aircraft already functions with the ESC lead length as-is - you're not making the runs any longer. Just use the combiner plugs / leads linked above, and all will be golden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 You've got eleven years on me, Edward, but you're in good company, I can assure you... The second option in Phil's post is what you want - is it the 1600mm span version as I see there's also an 1875mm B-17G Liberty Belle? The 1600mm manual shows a pic of the paired ESCs to single Deans plugs. Regarding your question about current draw, I see the AUW of the model is 2350g - say 5lb. That would indicate a power requirement of around 500-600W, which on 3S would be in the region of 50A. That shouldn't cause a problem with the Deans connector. It's worth looking at the discharge 'C' rating of your proposed 4000mAh pack, though. If it's a 20C pack the max discharge would be 20 x 4(A) = 80A, which is acceptable. However, I think you would get better performance, and not cane the pack so much, if you look for a 25-50C rated pack. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Beeney Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Edward, Yet another way of doing this is to simply cut the cables from both ESCs at a suitable point, perhaps fairly close to the connecting end, keeping one plug and putting the other to one side. (Keep this). Then join all three red cables together and also the three blacks together. I would personally do this by soldering, but if you don’t trust yourself to do this, choc block connectors are a perfectly good alternative; the way you can do this is to strip the insulation from the wire the length of the metal insert in the connector, twist the wires up tightly and if you can solder at all just tin the ends. A smidgin of flux, solder and a nice hot iron will only take a few moments so to do. Then you need a block that is only just big enough to comfortably accommodate the three wires, both ESC’s from one side, the plug from the other. You can buy nice big 60A size from various places, such as here, and I’ve occasionally seen packs of assorted 30A, 15A, 5A and 3A in the 99 pence store. I don’t think there are too many concerns about about the current carrying capabilities of these connectors, I suspect the total resistance in the terminal, with the screws done up nice and tight, meaning the wires are going to be in good close contact with each other and the connector, will be as low, or lower, as the same length as the wire itself; so without getting too complicated, this just means it will never get any warmer than the wire, whatever the current. This could be done with two single blocks or alternatively cut off the strip as a pair. I know there are some forum members that don’t use choc blocks, which is fine by me, each to his own, but I’ve used these for a lifetime, often in situations not even connected to electricity at all. Also, in a working life, I’ve seen them used in some installations by the cartload, but I don’t think I’ve ever known them to to be a problem; which is certainly more than I can say about some of the soldered joints I’ve seen in the modelling world! One advantage here, too, might be that this can now be slightly customised to suit your model installation as well, you may be able to cut the wire lengths down to a minimum for easy operation, which is also best electrically, less resistance, and best mechanically too, no spare lead which has to be folded away / crumpled up / or woven into a rook's nest every time you take the batteries in and out. Hoping you succeed in your venture, whichever way you do it… PB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Beeney Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Apologies, I forgot to insert the link, ‘such as here’, to one source of 60A connectors in my post above. So, hopefully, here it is. PB PS Having now looked at my own link, perhaps I’m not entirely convinced that these are indeed 60 amp connectors. But it’s possible that the 30 amp size might be big enough anyway. These, though, are definitely the real McCoy… PB Edited By Peter Beeney on 13/11/2014 19:20:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Ward1 Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 The model is the 1875 mm Liberty Belle, and it flies really well and handles like a trainer, low passes on half throttle make the hairs stand up on your neck. Landings are difficult to say the least. broke numerous props as they are really fragile, nosing in all the while. Now changed to two blade master airscrew props. and bent the undercarriage legs forward an inch or so, Now handles better on the ground. Thanks to everyone for their help and advice, and it was a interesting idea Peter using connectors, I honestly hadn't thought of that one. Anyway Thanks again to all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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