iqon Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 they are for spinner back plate , but you probably wont need them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Privett Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Posted by trebor on 29/11/2014 11:54:53: Still undecided what to do with wires weather to bend or use small screw locks You probably realise this, but just in case... With the throttle servo arm in the position it is in the photo, when the arm on the lower of the two servos on the left (it will be either elevator or rudder - can't tell from the pic!) moves forward, you're going to get a clash of the pushrods. That needs to be prevented! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Yes I`m still thinking about it before I cut them off. Might cut them and leave just enough to put one bend in and a clip at a later date after it`s been inspected by my club mates. The servos I suspect are a bit and they are making some noise even after trimming. I can trim them so they go quiet but next time I try it the noise comes back again even though there hardly moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Berriman Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Trebor how about some spacers under a servo fixing area and then a small z bend in a push rod to clear the other servo linkage. I suggest this as I can see the outer snakes limit what you can do unless you can free the throttle one and let it ride up so then no z bend required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Trebor, I notice from your photos that the two aerials of your RX are parallel to each other. Spektrum say that the two aerials should be oriented so that they form an L shape. Have a look at this video **LINK** Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Thanks, what do you mean " Snakes " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Snakes are the pushrods in tubes like wot u have! Your RX antenna (it looks like you have a single long wire one) should not be looped back like that but extended the maximum distance in as straight a line as possible (though its only the tip that is actually the aerial) ideally away from the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 I did this last night, any better ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Not really! the tip of your aerial is heading towards the engine (where vibrations and RF Noise come from), would be better to route it towards the tail passing over the servos, then turn the tip vertically so its in opposition to the short wire aerial (which I see now!) Edited By Dave Hopkin on 30/11/2014 09:52:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Much. Better but not good enough, according to Dave! Edited By IanR on 30/11/2014 09:55:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Posted by trebor on 30/11/2014 08:42:58: The servos I suspect are a bit and they are making some noise even after trimming. I can trim them so they go quiet but next time I try it the noise comes back again even though there hardly moving. This is a common issue and tends not to be a dodgy servo but friction or tension in the pushrod run or at the control surface hinging exerting a force on the servo which is always trying to retain its neutral position. If you disconnect the pushrods from the servos, does it feel as if much effort is needed to move them to-and-fro? Anything more than the slightest effort will need to be overcome by the servo as it is working. Normally, the snake tube isn't perfectly straight so there's some internal friction - I tend to replace the supplied pushrods with a thinner gauge wire and it's surprising how much freer the movement becomes. Check the pushrod wires for cleanliness/corrosion - it's not unknown for traces of rust to be found on the wires - and run them through a fold of fine glasspaper to clean them up. Apply a touch of silicon lubricant along the pushrod - anything which reduces the friction will help. Make sure the control surfaces are free-moving and not binding and that they have full and free travel to the limit of the servo movement. If you check the recommended movement limits in the instructions, do the surfaces move freely to the limits? You may have to either use different servo arm/control horn hole combinations or program the end point until you are happy with the linkage. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Thanks for the advise but anything else will have to be done in the field so to speak it`s " Chocks away " ps I`m taking all my tools with me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Good luck, trebor. I'm sure the guys at the club will give it a good look over before it's committed it to the air! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Rushton Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Good luck Trebor; wot trainers are great machines; I learnt to fly with one and it's still airworthy. ( for me that is an achievement!) Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Not a bad day, first off my engine refused to start even though it was no problem the other day. Then the prop came loose and the plastic spinner cover lugs broke off. Need a new better one. Got it going with just the prop on only we had problems buddy`ing the Dx6 with another Spectrum on a wire. We couldn't work how to program it so my instructor flew it and put it through its paces. It was nice to see and he didn't have to do much trimming. Next time I will be sorted more with a mat to kneel on to stop my gear getting covered in mud and I will make a bag to put the wing in during transport or its not going to last long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Welcome to the real world!! I never use plastic spinners, only on electrics. I always go for the good quality aluminium - they don't mark when the electric starter slips then! Great to see it in the air, isn't it! - a good hint for the wing bags - use the foam bubble stuff used for sticking behind radiators, and gaffa tape them into a bag, around 3" larger all round than the wing. Nice cheapo wingbags! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Foam bubble for behind radiators, that`s a new one on me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 This stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iqon Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 I use this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Thats my next stop Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.. Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Here you go Bob, hopefully you can get a go on the sticks next time out. It's a nice & tidy build for a first time effort despite your earlier problems. Edited By Justin K. on 30/11/2014 16:53:35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Thanks Justin, a few more tweaks and I will be down again. Still haven't grasped the programming on transmitter but then it's not my favourite job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Of for Wingbags; Liydl sell (sometimes) silver foiled flexible foam material for 2.99, they are just the right size for upto a 55" wing when folded back on themselves and taped up with gaffatape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin rowe Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 hi guys brill thread, ive just finished a h/king version of this plane called the venus, can somebody please show me a picture of how this should balance please, and measurement from front of wing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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