Dave Potter Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Hi fellow modellers, I am just in the middle of building a SLEC FUNFLY and i would like to know what motor to use, I'd like it to be on par with a 46ic if anyone can recommend one from HK That would be great. Bring it on John P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamWh Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 A friend of mine fitted a Tornado Thumper V2 3548/05 to his electric funfly and it goes very well on this. Are you making the electric funfly or the I/c one with an electric conversion? --sorry, I have just checked HK and I don't think they do this motor. Edited By GrahamWh on 13/03/2015 18:48:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Potter Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 Hi Graham, it is the SLEC electric kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 I am using a Turnigy 3536/9 910kv with a Zippy 4S 3000, 11 by 5.5 HobbyKing APC type prop and 60 amp ESC in a fairly comparable model - 52 inch Avicraft Moronic converted from glow- at just over 4 pounds this gives good performance for 7 minutes or so. Great everyday aerobatic model and its done over 270 flights in the last 10 months. So for normal aerobatics this would suit the SLEC Funfly. Bigger Lipo would be better for longer flight time. A clubmate has a SLEC Funfly I will try to find out the motor but it's not HK, the Lipo is bigger too. Excellent model. But the interesting thing is the way he fits the Lipo - it slides in from underneath and is on a ply plate with a nylon wing bolt to secure. Rather like Chris Foss online details for converting Wot4 to Lipo. It's neat and doesn't cut the cowl around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyh Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 I'd go for one of these - NTM Prop Drive 35-48 Series 900KV / 815W: **LINK** with a 60A ESC & an 13x6.5 or 13x8 prop for 4S edit: oops, thought you meant a Limbo Dancer. the above would still work but would be pretty ballistic @200W/lb Edited By andyh on 13/03/2015 20:15:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Hi Dave, I have built and currently fly the SLEC Funfly electric kit and so far it performs well and has completed quite a few flights now. The setup I use is with and a Giantshark E-Power GT2826/05 860KV brushless outrunner, JP EnErG Pro 60 SBEC, APC-E 12*6 prop and a Dynamic 4500mA 4S 30C LiPo (small and light for its capacity). The Funfly AUW is appx 4.5lbs and it draws appx 46A and 678 watts on my watt meter. I fly from a grass strip so I have increased the size of the wheels to 3ins. I do not need to take the wings off to change the LiPo as I have adopted the mechanism detailed on the CF website for converting the Wot4 to LiPo working. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Potter Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 Hi Guys What servos would be suitable for the slec fun fly electric? Is there anything else i should know about this plane? Thanks Friends... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 hello Dave-I flew the original fun fly with pretty much standard servo's...(in the old day's) ... maybe put a BB on the elevator... increase the rudder slightly and it will knife edge all day......I never used to bother with the dihedral ......nice model....I had a 40 OS 2/st in mine....wish I still had it. ken Anderson....ne...1 fun fly dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Hi Dave, I currently fly an electric Funfly and use standard Fut. 3003's all round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Potter Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 That's good i have loads of them. What motor are you using Redex ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 I built a couple of the original Funflys some years ago. In fact I passed my A with one. Certainly standard servos were the norm (Futaba 148/3003 etc) then with a central aileron servo. Now I would choose smaller servos and certainly individual small ones in the wing. I'm currently building a Skyshark Fantasy (60" ws) and I'm using a pair of 22 gram Corona CS38MG from HK (ball bearing metal gears) which have slightly higher torque than 148s at 4kg cm for the rudder and elevator. I'm using smaller 9 gram Turnigy 380MG also from HK for the ailerons. My first Funfly was fitted with an Irvine Q40 which was really overpowering it, at least for a newish pilot, and I replaced it with a Super Tigre 34 which was more than adequate. I suspect the latest Funflys with a built up wing rather than the foam one supplied back then will be lighter. The one weakness with design (literally) is the area of fuselage round the wing seat. Because it's a mid wing with a the cockpit built onto it there isn't much strength there and both mine broke in that area. The second one broke when it blew off my model stand in the pits; The wing tip hit the ground and there was sufficient inertia in the engine to break the fuelage in half. If I were building one now (and they're great fliers) I would think about strengthening with carbonstrip and some epoxy. It would add very little weight and could contribute to longevity of the model. Interestingly the designer, Dave Milbourn, is a regular contributor to the Model Boats forum now. I came across him during the build of my scale Thames barge earlier this year. I probably will again when I continue the build next winter. Consiidering he also designed the Highboy and Lowboy trainers which also sport foam wings he hates them and much prefers built up wings Geoff Edited By Geoff Sleath on 01/05/2015 12:51:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Hi Dave, Have a look at my previous post in this thread, it lists my drive train including the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Potter Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 Thanks Redex i have just ordered the GT2826/05 860KV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy48 Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Bit late now but ... I used a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 3548 840kv (750w) motor with a 12x6 prop. I find the GT motors quite disappointing, never delivering anything like the thrust claimed. I also used a 4S 3300mah battery, and this is fitted at 45 degrees. I made a hatch in front of the wing, up to the nose cone, and the battery slots easily in here. The hatch is held with magnets. If you lay a battery on the plan before building, you will see how it can slide in. It needed a bit of fiddling with one or two parts and a new battery tray making. The ESC sits under the battery tray, and the plane balances well without any extra weight added. I used Emax ES08 MA servos. These are 11g servos with metal gears and are perfectly adequate for the plane. I also gave it longer legs and bigger wheels which greatly improves the take-off from a grass strip. It will fly vertically with this combo, yet after an 8 minute flight there is still half the charge left in the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Potter Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 Hi Andy, thanks for your input i have ordered the Aerodrive SK3 as well, you can't have enough motors. I'll send pictures when it's finished. Thanks to everyone for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Hat Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 I use an Emax BL2826 with 13x6.5 APC prop on 4S 3000-3300mah batteries. Make sure you provide adequate cooling for the motor. I had to put a vent under the cowl - although mine was a conversion from the IC kit so the electric kit may be different. I wish mine had less dihedral (or none) in the wing. A great sturdy plane. I've flown it into a tree and the tree came off worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Potter Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Hi Redex, did you have to cut the mounting box about to get the GT 2826/05 to fit. Thanks mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Hi Dave, What I have done is to install the kit electric mounting box as per the instructions, then glue onto the front of the mounting box, using epoxy, a 6mm ply plate about 2 ins square. Onto this plate I have mounted the motor using normal screws/washers/lockunts. This I have found also seems to give the correct distance for the cowl and my spinner. Also I have monuted the 6mm ply plate in a diamond shape on the front of the mounting box so that if I want to add any side or down thrust then only one washer is required under the appropiate screw. If the 6mm ply plate is mounted square on to the mounting box, the maybe 2 washers will be required a bit more fiddely !! I used the Funfly at the weekend and it handles the wind very well - hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Potter Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Hi Mate, I have just finished what you said and all is well. Thanks once again Redex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Hi All, Need a bit of help sorting out my electric FunFly after a rebuild - does anybody have dimensions as to where the CofG should be. I no longer have my plan or building instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon barr Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Hello Redex. Can't help with plans or instructions I'm afraid, but as the Fun Fly has a constant chord wing, start with a C of G around 25% back from the leading edge.... You may find that this is on the spar. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy48 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 The FF booklet says 25-30% of the wing chord back from the leading edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Many thanks for the info Simon & Andy48. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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