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OK Tigre fans...

Coaming on and sanded (almost) to shape

tigre 38.jpg

Here's how I overcame the problem of getting the stringers flush with the coaming.

tigre39.jpg

Edge of the 6mm stringer trimmed down to 3mm but reinforced with a 3mm strip of Cyparis - simples!

tigre 40.jpg

tigre 41.jpg

If you wondered why F5 is from 6mm Lite ply, its 'cos I ran out of 3mm....

 

I'll leave it there, as I need to rout the control cables through them first...

 

Edited By Stevo on 31/07/2015 18:09:55

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'll say again that the geometry on the drawings for the formers is MILES OUT as far as the stringers is concerned. Cut them accurately on F4, and accurately F7 and then use a steel rule to get them straight in between !!

You have been warned. kulou

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Semi working drawing - no problem.. read on. Any pictures of the larger version owned by your clubmate?? !!

Fuselage almost finished... Threading the snakes through was a challenge...

tigre 51.jpg

Oh.... did I mention scallops betewwen the stringers

tigre 49.jpg

 

tigre 50.jpg

And here are the outlets for the control cables...

tigre 53.jpg

Servo tray...

tigre 46.jpg

And more snakes....

tigre 45.jpg

 

Edited By Stevo on 02/08/2015 16:02:55

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Looking very nice Steve, nice job and well done.. putting us all to shame there, mind you - its does show how a nice install can be made with a bit of TLC and planning.. I can see a good few of us watching the thread will be upping our game next we build.. yes

Must say I'm fancying one myself more and more wink

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Hi Percy, every since I read a book on Kelly Johnson.. and a good few adopted the whole plausible deniability theme.. I wasn convinced my own hangar should share the same attributes!

I loved to know whats going on in there Percy, we can only imagine.. if they are happy to share so of the latest Raptor/drone stories/weapons targeting with us... one can only guess what they now have and are testing... the heady days of the 50s/60s/70s in jet flight are my favourite...

**LINK** happy stories Percy, and perhaps your answer!

Rumour has it they can hear a snake move at two miles and smell it at 10 miles.. such is the level "hitech" security adopted.. perhaps we will only know about it when its "old tech" and shown to the public

I fancy the Ruhig, so will be following this one until the end.. saw a nice item on 3D printing dummy engines wink

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It's a great build Area 51... and of course we have the plans

Yes I don't want to leave anything to chance so forward planning is the key. I've just drilled the holes in the firewall for the tank filler, and routed the throttle linkage and installed the throttle servo mount. All so it's all dead in line and no tight spots.

Fuselage is 90% sanded, but 100% complete. I've got to trim the wing seat but won't do that until I make the wings. On to the tail next.

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There's not much grass growing under you, Steve. You don't half shift. For someone like me the decision to begin a new model means that the flying is way, way off, many months away. But obviously, with you, the flying comes not too long after the decision to build. As well as the quality of your building I am also envious of your industry.

By the way, is that brown paper you are using to protect your building board? Doesn't it stick to the underside of what you're building?

Ian

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Can you explain your procedure in a bit more detail - the tailplane was a rectangular sheet with over length ribs, now its shaped. Most of us would have started with a shaped skin and inserted exact length ribs onto it. Cut to shape on a bandsaw perhaps?

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Oh! How did you do that ...?

Here's how. Proceed as per the drawing. Then the outline is pencilled on beforehand. Using a bandsaw, CAREFULLY trim to within 3mm of the curved line.

Then, using a disc sander like your life depended upon it, use it to sand the curve to suit. Lay each half of the stab. on the drawing and check progress.

WARNING: there is a real danger that if you are over zealous, you end up trimming a straight line between the ribs - DON'T! (If you do, sand it straight. Then CA a piece of balsa along the straight bit, then sand to a curve. And, no I didn't have to cheeky)

Take your first laminate and stretch it tight over the curve; hold it up to the light and you will see any gaps... take off the high spots with a fine permagrit. Keep going round this until you get a good fit all round. Stretching the first laminiate round it in this way makes it form a natural curve with no straight edges.

I'm purposely NOT using CA here as there's a lot of sanding to be done on the L.E., and I don't want any high spots. All 6 laminates are on now all clamped up; I put two on at a time and allowed 1 hour between adding the next two. It will stay clamped until tomorrow. I'll rough trim it, then get going on the elevators (two separate halves) and vertical Stab - all made in the same way.

 

Edited By Stevo on 04/08/2015 18:25:18

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OK you can now turn your telly off!

The vertical stab needs to be reworked a little from the plan as it has some weak points where it fixes to the fuselage.

tigre 60.jpg

tigre 64.jpg

tigre 62.jpg

So to trim down the rear of the elevators, place a small piceof hardwood 3mm thick on the stab... and cut down to it with a razor saw several times. Now when you sand it down, you will see the saw marks until they disappear.. then you have hit 3mm

tigre 63.jpg

And then sand it all down!

Two elevators, 99% complete: -

tigre 59.jpg

 

 

 

 

Edited By Stevo on 08/08/2015 18:31:09

Edited By Stevo on 08/08/2015 18:32:02

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Now Whats this ?? Has the man taken leave of his senses, gluing more strips on the elevator / rudder hinge line??

tigre 65.jpg

I thinned the Vertical stab to 12mm, and the horizontal stab to 13mm, by hand. Not as heart stopping as thing a guitar top...

OK I'll reveal all...

Recessed hinges!

tigre 66.jpg

tigre 67.jpg

tigre 68.jpg

Now, it seems to have developed some holes rather like Swiss cheese in a "How many holes can you get in a Swiss Cheese" contest.

Why?

They are functional. So what are they for? Answers on a postcard, or on this forum.

Edited By Stevo on 09/08/2015 13:29:05

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Here's how.

I drew it out in CAD first to check the idea. The strips were best to be 5x5mm, and then glued on. I then trimmed them by eye and scalpel, then the clever bit. I needed a 13mm radius cut, so I used a 12.5mm drill, with 120g Al. oxide paper wrapped around once. Then worked it back and forth until the radius was in. With the horizontal stab, I wrapped the paper round the drill 3 times to give me a bigger radius.

On the control surfaces, I got the radius by eye near enough with a permagrit. Then, using a strip of 180g paper, sanded across the grain in a push - pull fashion; this then almost guarantees a radius and not an oval.

Finally, wrap a single sheet of 180g paper round the edge of the elevator/rudder, and then move it back and forth along it's housing, which guarantees an almost perfect fit.

On to the Robarts next.

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