NewBuilderFlyer Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I'm building a STOL Mk2 from a RCME plan and have purchased both wood packs as well. These packs come from SLEC - I met the chat who deciphers the plans at the recent Wings & Wheels event at North Weald. Apart from a few errors in the plan and wood packs things are looking good.... but I've hit a snag. The wing parts are labelled W1 to W4 for the wood parts but I can't find these references on the plans. I wonder if anyone can help either with confirmation of where the numbering starts (W1 at the centre?) or with some photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 I've got a very old (1998) part set & the plan, which I haven't got round to starting yet! I did build a Mk1 STOL when it was first published. My parts have no numbers on them at all so I can't answer immediately but if you can post a photo of the bits in question I'm sure we can sort it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Jefferies Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 If you bought the packs from SLEC, perhaps you could ask them? They have a website......http://www.slecuk.com/ with a contact section which gives their phone number. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewBuilderFlyer Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 SLEC include this sheet with ribs labelled W1 to W4: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Jefferies Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 I don't have the plan but I think you will find that W1 is the innermost rib and W4 is the outermost (ie. at the tip). That leaves the W2s and W3s and the only difference between them is the slope at the back of the ribs. W2s will be the ribs where there is a Flap and the W3s will go where there is Aileron. Good luck! Paul Edited By Paul Jefferies on 14/07/2015 22:46:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Agreed. W1 are the center ribs. I think you will find them slightly thinner than W4 to allow for the thickness of the 1/32nd ply center covering. W2 & W2A form the flap section which is bottom hinged. W3 & W3A form the aileron section which is top hinged. W4 are the end ribs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewBuilderFlyer Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 Thanks for the help - all makes sense now so on with the build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewBuilderFlyer Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 And it's only taken me this long to finally finishing this model! All ready for the maiden flight.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Am certain the undercarriage should not point aft bud The wheels should be in front of the leading edge of the wing Lovely build Edited By Denis Watkins on 05/03/2017 20:07:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokenenglish Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Posted by Denis Watkins on 05/03/2017 20:06:42: Am certain the undercarriage should not point aft bud The wheels should be in front of the leading edge of the wing Lovely build Edited By Denis Watkins on 05/03/2017 20:07:21 I would tend to disagree. I don't have a STOL Mk 2 plan, but the wheel position looks very reasonable in relation to the CG, and other similar planes have this configuration. Turning the u/c round the other way would put the wheels way too far forward (IMHO). Stating that the wheels should be in front of the wing LE just isn't true as a general statement. They should obviously be a little in front of the CG, but not at all necessarily in front of the LE. Bear in mind also that, on a STOL aircraft, the CG is likely to be fairly rearward, compared with an aerobatic plane or a trainer, for example. Someone needs to check against the plan, but I think the plane looks right the way it is... Edited By brokenenglish on 05/03/2017 21:03:05 Edited By brokenenglish on 05/03/2017 21:09:19 Edited By brokenenglish on 05/03/2017 21:11:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewBuilderFlyer Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 The plans show a sprung UC and at the moment I'm hoping to adapt a set from a HK Tundra plane. In the meantime the current set should angle back so that the wheel is close to the CG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Following with interest, as this was one of my 1 st builds from the original article in RCME October 1983 Using an OS Pet .19 for power. Prior to this, were the usual kit builds Edited By Denis Watkins on 05/03/2017 21:27:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewBuilderFlyer Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 This plane never wanted to fly. I bought the plans and the woodpack but turns out the plans are not quite right so certain wood parts never did fit. Then I managed to completely smash the wing just before covering as something fell out of the garage cupboard onto it. Then I muddled up the hinge locations for the flaps. I'm surprised that no one has spotted that the slats are missing - these are still being worked on, but it might be a little too late given that I've already covered the wings! And, as you can see the covering is from various scraps that I had, so it's not exactly a looker. Goodness knows whether it will actually fly. But it's good to get it finished at last. Will need my friend to fly this as I've never used flaps before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokenenglish Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Posted by Denis Watkins on 05/03/2017 21:15:02: Using an OS Pet .19 for power. Prior to this, were the usual kit builds Edited By Denis Watkins on 05/03/2017 21:27:40 Denis, an OS .19 I expect... but not a Pet. The Pet is/was an .09. Edited By brokenenglish on 05/03/2017 21:34:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Guys, the wheel on the plan is in front of the leading edge, where it should be. The aeroplane in the photograph above will have trouble/ or be unable to take off And will most certainly tip onto the nose of the model as soon as it touches down This is guaranteed Edited By Denis Watkins on 05/03/2017 21:41:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Apologies Broken OS 19 correct I was going to prattle on about the OS Pet flying an approximate half size copy of the STOL And deleted odd bits of the story, inadvertantly leaving the wrong bits in The Pet was an 0.99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Don't worry about the flaps to start with for the first few flights as it looks like it has quite a high lift wing and if in doubt come in a little quicker. Best IMHO is start with a small amount of flap and switch it in with plenty of height on your side, fly about and get used to what it does at stall (and how slow it will fly). Again if in doubt just land without flaps. Some models have very high drag with flaps deployed & need 1/2 throttle just to stay in the air....or not (don't ask how I know , but tip stall at 20ft is not good). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokenenglish Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Posted by Denis Watkins on 05/03/2017 21:36:01: Guys, the wheel on the plan is in front of the leading edge, where it should be. The aeroplane in the photograph above will have trouble/ or be unable to take off And will most certainly tip onto the nose of the model as soon as it touches down This is guaranteed Edited By Denis Watkins on 05/03/2017 21:41:54 Denis, we have a problem! Looking at the plan above, and on my STOL Mk I plan, the wheel axle (which is the reference, obviously) is about midway between the wing LE and the CG. A very forward position wouldn't allow the "nippy" takeoff for which the plane was designed... On the plane photos above, which provoked these comments, the wheel axle doesn't appear to be further after than on the plan. Compare the two. The wheel axle is just aft of the LE in both cases. So I still think the u/c shown in the photos corresponds to the plan axle position and will be perfectly OK... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Agreed Broken, the position would allow very easy pivoting onto the wheels of this lightweight and allow level wings to lift very quickly But the pilot would need to be alert and adept at controlling take off Let us fly it lads and see the results Like the authors, mine did fly in and out of the garden at home, but luckily I had some years of proportional control flying prior to these flights Edited By Denis Watkins on 06/03/2017 08:10:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 You've made a very nice job of the model New Builder Flyer! I've admired this model for years and bought a STOL Mark 2 plan many years ago. Then someone left the fuselage and tailplane of the STOL in the Boot Hill Corner of our club house. They are now up in the loft waiting for me to build a wing. That shouldn't take that long and with modern micro servos it will be easy to rig up the flaps and ailerons. I wonder whether my old HP VT 25 four-stroke would fly it. You know what they said about these don't you, "Weight of a 40, Power of a 10!" The only problem I have is where do I fit in building the wing between the Baron, the BE2e, the Supra Star 45, the Pete Russell 362 delta and the Hawker Hurricane? I have just bought a house with a 4000 square metre garden but most of it is woodland so I won't be able to fly the STOL out of it! Edited By David Davis on 06/03/2017 08:40:47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 I built mine a couple of years ago. STOL-X Its not the easiest model in the world to fly but its great fun. You can fly it so slowly.. Must get it out and fly it more often.. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerDon Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Being NewBuilderFlyer's 'friend' who will be doing the maiden I feel it appropriate to add my 2p-worth.... I agree with brokenenglish Looking at the plan and pictures of other STOL Mk 1 & 2 builds surely* the WHEEL should be postioned about mid-way between the CoG and the wing LE. The rake of the u/c struts is very misleading and irrelevant IMHO and it's the position of the axle that counts as the aircraft will rotate about that axle while on the ground. * and stop calling me Shirley... I have plenty of air time with both LE slats, flaps and flying slowly as I have the Durafly Fiesler Storch which is notoriously difficult to fly. I was the only flyer in our club that was able to tame the Storch and get many flights out of her Time will tell fellahs, we'll keep you posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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