Boz Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 hello everyone, well im posting on this forum in conjunction with my thread on new kit builds, as some of you know im building a 1/3 strutter kit from mick reaves. i know that i have jumped in with both feet first, and with help and advice from all the expert builders on here i feel that i may end up with something that will fly. i have started this thread so that when i come across something that i do not understand i can post on this thread then i am not cluttering up my build thread, i have been looking at the kit parts for my strutter and have found out early that there are quite a few parts that are not included, i have spoken with jim at mick reaves and they do supply some of the things i will need. however there are things that i will have to make or obtain from other places, for example i have laid out all the parts for the tail section, and there are no hinges for the elevators, are these the firs parts i will need to make or are they available from hobby shops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 Hi Boz I have a 1/4 scale reeves pup kit waiting to be built and the plan says the elevators are hinged with two interlocked split pins. This strikes me as odd as there will be quite alot of play in them which is not very good. I plan you use this type of thing http://file.espritmodel.com/accessories/hinges/hinge_point2.jpg These robart hinges (and their chinese copys) are available in a number of sizes and i am sure would be perfect for the strutter and for my pup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 thanks jon, yes i can see now they are split pins, i just did not recognise them as such on the plan, i agree with you te robart hinges are better and will not have as much play, thanks, boz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted August 21, 2015 Author Share Posted August 21, 2015 Hello again, I am progressing well with my strutter build, but could use some more help, I need to cut the scarf joints for the fuz on my strutter. I could use some advice on the best way to do this, I don't have a power saw, only basic tools, your help on this will be great fully accepted, thanks for looking Boz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 Im back http://www.hobbystores.co.uk/default.asp?WPG=HOB_HomePage1&itemid=T-EX55666 If you already have a razor saw then the mitre blocks are available on their own. If not get the whole thing. You cannot live without a razor saw! They do loads of different blades too. Really good tools to have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 Thanks again Jon, I have ordered the saw and will make a mitre for the scalf joints, I could do with some help on the wing tips, the plan says 1/8 balsa I have used piano wire round the edge, but am unsure where to put the balsa, is it on both top and bottom of wing tip, or split between both? I can't find a good picture on any of the build threads,thanks for looking, boz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jez Harris 1 Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Boz, The split pins are the best option. If you go the route of robart type pins then be aware you are drilling large holes in the quite narrow diameter dowels. The structure you create when you build the tailplane isnt the stiffest and relies on rigging - any weakness you create can be a downfall. I dont think the pins interlock - you use the split pins as a row of eyes in each surface and insert a legth of piano wire of the correct o/d as a hinge. Jez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted August 23, 2015 Author Share Posted August 23, 2015 Thanks jez, looking at Mick's plan I think he he's interlocked them, I have opted to copy his idea after all, will post the pics on Tuesday, and get an opinion when the pins are in, I can change the setup when you guys have looked at it, jez thanks for your interest, I'm great full you have taken the time out to view my feeble attempt at a build, boz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 I thought about the potential weakness of the tail spar by using the robart hinges but i think it will be fine. The split pins need a hole drilled so its not that much different. And due to the low control surface loads the smaller hinges can be used without concern. And as has been said, its the rigging that holds it all together and if push comes to shove some internal reinforcement could be added without any visual clues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 Thanks for your input Jon, going to try the split pins as Mick used them on his strutter, boz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 hello again guys, well i got the split pins, only problem they wont freely move when interlocked with each other, so i opened up the hole so they would. photothis one not quite nipped up, but when i do fit them as they would go they do seem a long way apart, infact the gap between sufaces is about twice what it is on micks plan. photo if i try to close the loop they wont rotate, whats the solution? apart from robart hinged that are about £7 your thoughts please. photothanks for looking boz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 been looking for some small split pins but cant find any, see photo the ones i have dont fit right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Boz - you don't seem to be getting much help on here do you? I'm no builder but it looks like if you pull the split pins hard into the wood you would be left with just the end 'curve' of the pins where they interlink showing and I'm pretty sure they would still give the hinge movement required. The horizontal pins would be no bother when it came to bending back the legs but the vertical ones would have to have the legs cut very short after bending so they don't touch the covering - it's probably done that way because that's how the full size aileron hinges probably look and Mick Reeves is of course a scale champion. You could always ask Mick or Jim via the website also there may be a forum somewhere else more dedicated to scale matters which would be better (sorry Mr Ashby Sir) which they may be able to point you at. Anyway good luck to you - it will certainly be a cracker of a model when you finish it. Edited By Wingman on 31/08/2015 18:43:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 Thanks wingman, being a novice builder I don't know all the tricks of the trade, I did not post my build on some of the other sites because my build would not be up to their standards,I'm hoping that as my build gets under way I will get a bit more support, its a very amateurish build, and I have not many tools or experience, I'm posting on this thread so my build thread is not so cluttered, thanks for your interest, am on holiday for two weeks so will post again then, boz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 wonder if anyone can help with prob quite a simple problem. my plans only show one half of wings both top and bottom, and me being a novice builder, how do i go about making the opposite wing? ie root etc and getting the same both sides. thanks for looking boz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 You can either trace the plan onto another sheet, flip it over and trace through or give it a wipe with an oily rag so you can see through. I have never thought the last option was very smart though as you end up with an oily plan and who wants that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Wipe the plan with IPA. If it goes opaque before you complete the other panel just lightly spray the plan with more IPA. it won't affect the wood or adhesive that you have used. Don't breathe in the vapour though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Tape the plan to a window face out, then redraw on the back of the sheet over the image you see in reverse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 I'm interested in your idea jrman, as I said its a 1/3 scale strutter so its a very large plan of wing, could you elaborate a little, what's IPA, and how do I do it? Front or rear of plan, thanks for looking boz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Isopropyl Alcohol. (used as a solvent/thinner for epoxy resin). I get mine from local chemist. Tape or pin the plan down with rear side uppermost, moisten a cloth with ipa and just wipe over. If it starts to fade just lightly spray with a little ipa. it is very flammable so no naked flames or heaters!! Note it's Alcohol so don't breathe in the spray mist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 Thanks jrman, I'm going to use your method, if I can't breath it can I drink it, lol, boz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Don't even joke about it. It would kill you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boz Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 Thanks Jr man, boz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg shaw Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Regarding the hinges, I would put two pins on the tailplane for each hinge, and a single for each hinge on the elevator, then join the three pins together with another split pin through the eyes to make the hinge. This massively reduces slop, binding and leaves you with a hinge you can dismantle for covering / servicing. The hinge you have at the moment might bind or be notchy when the closed loop controls are installed. Hope this helps Boz Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Yep Nice one Ian ! I'll keep an eye on this thread Boz - you can always PM me. Whereabouts are you from? Wings are usually drawn like that to save on paper and drawing effort! I usually jig mine particularly with a biplane so I build two wings upside down ! Edited By Stevo on 16/09/2015 18:39:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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