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Martyn's Ballerina @ 115%


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Posted by Peter Miller on 01/02/2016 18:08:42:
Posted by Martyn K on 01/02/2016 14:44:01:

Thanks Peter

1/5 seems definitely too big I found a large 1/7 model that I would like to use but it may be just a little too small and out of proportion.

M

Well, if 1/5th is to big and 1/7th is too small it wouls seem the 1/6th as I said

True - but my model is 1/6 plus 15% - which should be about 1/5.. My preferred pilotess is only available in 1/5 and 1/7

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A bit more progress in the past few days. You may have noticed that I hadn't mounted the engine. Like many who have modified the design, I was a bit worried where the CG was going to end up - so my plan was to get the model mainly covered, then loosely fit the engine and adjust until the balance was about right and making a small allowance for the cowl.

So now covering the Fus - still using Solartex

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and

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and then fitted the linkages

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Trying to keep this nice and tidy - people may be watching this..

So I can now get the engine bolted into place

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Shocking pink!

Hardware blocks glued into place to secure the cowl.

Following last year's adventures with the STOL Mass Build I have elected for another aluminium cowl. Highly polished, I think they look fantastic.

Starting with the nose ring, I am using the spinner back plate, a 1/16 balsa spacer and 3mm lite ply cowl font plate (which will be reinforced when the cowl has been built

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The lower part has a nice large vent to let the air through

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and

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Clamped into place. The lower part of the front cowl former is raked backwards for elegance. Note that the cylinder head will be out in the air stream.

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Cut a template. I use the very thin card that you find in the centre of Christmas wrapping paper. Its perfect for this sort of stuff. At this point, the important bit is to get the compound and composite curves and lines correct for the junction of the cowl with the fuselage. When happy, transfer the shape to the .024" aluminium sheet (from eBay) and then cut - I used a pair of very sharp scissors - and cut slightly oversize.

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and gently form into place. I have just added a couple of extra supports at the top curved corners but you can see the idea. Before I get too far, I will need to cut a slot for the exhaust and a hole for the needle valve screw and idle screw.

 

Currently waiting for the pilot to turn up..

A bit more to come

 

Martyn

Edited By Martyn K on 05/02/2016 10:53:25

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Talking of cowls. Did you know that either Hobbys or Hobbies (Two different companies) sell very small brass piano hinge, ideal for alumnium cowls such as Gypsy cowls. I have used it in the past.

It is only about 3/8" wide when opened out flat.

Not sure which of the two companies it is that sells it but you can check on thier websites if interested.

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Back in sequence again.

I had just started forming the cowl. If you want to build one like this, one thing is very important, you must ensure that the top of the cowl is seated on top of the front former while you are bending.

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You will not get it to fit afterwards unless you get it right now. So with the sides done, you can mark and cut the holes for the mixture adjustments and the silencer. Cover the areas that you are going to drill with masking tape, it will help stop the drill from wandering and is easier to mark.

When happy, then slow set epoxy the front former into place. Use lots of clamps to get good contact. Note that glue alone will not be strong enough - more reinforcement is required

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With the sides and the holes cut and the glue set I can now remove the spinner back plate and the balsa spacer. Not much of a gap there..

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File the aluminium away until it is flush with the former..

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Then we need to glass the joint from the inside. I use 170g/sq m cloth - about 20mm wide with the majority folded onto the aluminium. Before you glass, roughen up the aluminum on the inside to get a good keying surface. Leave it to set thoroughly. Note I have added a block of wood at the top to give a greater contact area for the epoxy glue.

Clean it up when hardened - that's the cowl basically finished..

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Now painted black and fuel proofed - the view the worms will see. - Hopefully only when they come to the surface.

While that was setting and paint drying etc, I fitted the aileron servos and linkages.

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Ball link on the horn and a Z link at the servo. The servo arm is offset to give differential throw - a lot more up than down

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I liked Peters idea for the undercarriage leg fairings. Mine are glued into place using Gorilla Glue and have a balsa insert behind the leg to give a greater glue area. Seems OK and probably more streamlined than a simple wire leg dangling down.

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Undercarriage clamper in place with aluminium plates and M3 cap head screws so they can be easily removed. I have left then deliberately big - oversize to spread the load across a larger contact area

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And with the model assembled - it weighs this much.. However, the CG is a bit far forward so will need a little additional weight at the tail.

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Some static shots in the sunshine on the lawn this morning..

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and

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oooh - that cowl is shiny

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The canopy is cut from an R Whites lemonade bottle. May do something better but I'll have a think. Held in place with masking tape while I do just that and until the pilot turns up.

That's about it. just the cockpit, canopy and pilot to do, then its ready for a maiden crash.

Martyn

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Very nice indeed Martyn.
Im considering a glass fiber cowl, I would do something similar to your but maybe the weight would be too much for a "standard" ballerina, especially considering that my tail is already lighter than the solid one
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Very nice indeed Martyn.
Im considering a glass fiber cowl, I would do something similar to your but maybe the weight would be too much for a "standard" ballerina, especially considering that my tail is already lighter than the solid one
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