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Anyone else for a Depron Ballerina?


Dave Hopkin
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Posted by john stones 1 on 10/01/2016 01:59:34:

Looks solid enough Dave, I imagine pulling in the tail end is more straightforward, both be same strength, unlike balsa which can want to curve different.

John

True I have yet to chamfer the tail where they join, as it stands the stern post is 12mm across, so I will have to chamfer it down inside to 3mm per side - I will also be inserting triangular shaped pieces in between the sides top and bottom, to ensure the shape is true and to complete a box structure for strength - it will also form the "tube" for running the control rods down

Edited By Dave Hopkin on 10/01/2016 02:12:44

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Plodding on.... Battery hatch, cockpit floor and rear turtle deck added (got a bit of remedial work on the side of the turtle deck thats not in the photo....)

Need to fit the motor and do the cowl and make the rudder/tailplane so I can run the control rods before closing in the bottom part of the lower fus box.....

Need to get some more 6mm Depron and some odds and sods - so a trip to webbies is on the cards for the morrow SHMBO likes the shops there.... especially the cake shop!

dscf1145.jpg

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The rear turtle deck is covered in (almost) on piece for a little added strength and one less glue joint!

There is a bit of a gap on the far side I will have to add a sliver too but thats more annoying than a problem

I use the grey depron for curved surfaces as I find it far easier to put compound curves into (dont forget the turtle deck is essentially a part of a cone) - you still have to take your time working the curve into it but its surprising the amount of curve than can be worked into it

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Posted by john stones 1 on 11/01/2016 12:56:12:

Looks like a Ballerina Dave smiley

I can see 1 join on the rear deck, is other one piece ?

Looks sturdy enough yes

John

blush

Due to a outbreak of stupidity (which I blame entirely on the cats) when making the rear decking, I made the pieices to fit between F10 and F6 - when it should have ended at F5!!!

So rather than strip all the work back I added another former at F5 and some bridging pieces between F5 and F6 - That of course meant the slope of the turtle deck was not per plan, so I made the turtle part stop at F6 and its flat between F6 and F5 - thats why its in two sections!!!

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AVC

First apologies to Dave for butting in on his build thread

Normal white Depron is strong and stiff but relatively brittle.

Grey Depron is more flexible (an effect of the colouring agent?).

'Aero' Depron is much softer and considerably more flexible.

This shows the relative "'bendability" of a 6 x 6 mm Depron strip with about the same degree of 'working' before it is likely to split. Normal white at the top, Aero white at the bottom.

depronbend.jpg

Obviously the thinner Depron the more severe the bend can be.

I hope this helps

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You never need to apologise for adding to my depron posts Simon, I value your input.....

I fully agree with what you say, the grey is more rubbery and as you say probably due to the colouring agents used in it - the aero grade, I have used but only seen it in 6mm never 3mm - it does seem more bendable than normal white, but I have never tried to form it to the extremes you show in your pic!

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Fin, stab and elevators made up - rudder still to do

dscf1146.jpg

Rather than fit the fin to the horizontal stab and infill for the fairing, I have made the fairing with a slot in the centre to receive the fin to ensure its square and makes it a lot easier to sand to the correct profile before its fitted

Timber inserts are 6mm balsa for a bit of rigidity - elevators will be parted from the balsa when the joiner is inserted to maintain levels

dscf1150.jpg

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Posted by john stones 1 on 15/01/2016 22:11:59:

Taking shape nicely Dave, how much will the airframe cost then ?

John

I've used 2 sheets of 6mm and 1 sheet of Lite ply, some 3mm and 1.5,, Balsa but the time its done add on a couple of tubes of glue and another sheet of 3mm, some 3mm Birch ply, off cuts of Hardwood and some 8swg wire - so that about £20 for the materials - motor, esc and Lipo, wheels and odd n sods were in the shed anyway - but if you said another £50 for those bits, then all told £70 ish.....(very ish!)

Edited By Dave Hopkin on 15/01/2016 22:18:15

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