Craig Thomas Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Well, here we go. I've started the dry construction of the first half of the wing. I've cut all my own parts for this model, so not everything fits perfect. I'm sure it will be fine. 😕😕😕 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hi Craig, I'm sure it will be fine. Looks like you are going the right way about it by dry fitting the parts. Keep asking questions, because I hadn't spotted the spar question you asked earlier this week. Keep up the good work Regards Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Those parts look pretty good to me Craig! Nice work. Mark is right, its always worth "rehersing" the assembly first to make sure you are happy that not only is everything going to fit but it goes together in a sensible order. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hello Craig, Welcome to the MB and I just subscribed to your blog. Total newbie in RC & my first ever build. I'm trying a hybrid Depron/balsa version of the lady. Feel free to visit the Bella Ballerina HD blog. Happy New Year to you & your family Chris Brussels, Belgium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted January 1, 2016 Author Share Posted January 1, 2016 Well, I've not managed to do anything today other than nurse a hangover. Hopefully I'll get a chance to have a go tomorrow. Waiting for a delivery of glue to arrive. Have ordered some super phatic from slec. It's supposed to be good stuff. Would that be strong enough for undercarriage ply or should I use epoxy for that part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Hi Craig. The super phatic glue should be fine for that, you can use epoxy also. With glues there's always more than one useable solution and its very much personal preference and circumstance. I'll often use epoxy or an accelerated Cyano if speed is required. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 There is a video here showing Super Phatic in use . Looks impressive but I have not tried it yet myself. Worth watching for tips on how to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Hi Craig This building looks very good! Another one subscribed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Hi Craig, aliphatic glues are very powerful, they work partly by penetrating the wood itself. In most cases the joint is at least as strong as the surrounding wood. Aliphatics also have the advantage that they sand well - certainly compared to PVA which goes a bit "rubbery" when sanded or epoxy which is hard work to sand! You'll like the superphatic - its very good. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Thanks guys. When the glue arrives I can start. I do have a question regarding the centre section of the wing, as I'm planning on fitting a servo in each wing, is there any modification I can make to the centre section? Could I not use an r2b rib each side as I will not need a ply plate to hold the servo that is in r1 Not sure if I've explained it very well but I know what I mean lol???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Possibly, but the unused servo box would make a good place for the servo leads to come out. Probably the servo box construction adds some strength to the wing joint so it seems unwise to eliminate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 That looks good. Don't tell anyone but my parts often do not fit perfectly!! Building too fast!! I use Aliphatic for most joints. I use the Superphatic just to flow in under the ribs. I also use it to flow between the skin and the U/C mmount. The rest of the joints are normal aliphatic as it is a bit more gap filling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Looking good, I am following with interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 Can anyone please advise the best way to accurately get a bevel on the aileron leading edge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomtom39 Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Once the wings are built up. Release the aileron from the build. I used a David plane to shave off some of the excess wood (having roughly drawn on the profile I wanted) and then finished this with a sanding block . Sorry forgot to mention I had slotted the hinge holes first. Edited By Tomtom39 on 03/01/2016 12:36:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Cut the holes for hinges first whilst the wood is square. If the hinge holes are central then the bevel is not critical. A razor plane works well - mind your fingers! A sanding block is OK, Permagrit is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I too use a razor plane. Years ago I bought a special sandung block from Tower Hobbies in the USA. It has a special shaped face. a /142 semi circle for rounding 1/4" sheet, 1 3/4" semi circle for round ting leading edges and a 90 degree V for shaping hinge lines. Not cheap with postage but it is used on EVERY model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 One tip is to draw a centre line along the length of the hinge face, then add two lines to the upper and lower faces - say 3/8" in from the hinge face. These later lines don't have to be super accurate, they just a guide, they can be done quickly using a "finger gauge". These lines then act as a guide for the bevel which, as said above, can be done with a David plane or a sanding block. The centre of the bevel should align with the centre line on the end face and the flanks with the lines on the upper and lower surfaces. As others have said do the hinge slots/holes before producing the bevel positioning them on the centre line. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Hi Craig First you need to trace a line in the middle of the LE. My preferred method for this is to measure the height of the LE in both ends, and mark them with a fine pen. Then place a pin in each of the marks and then place a ruler so that the edge is in contact with both pins, and trace a line. I normaly place the ruler in both sides of the pins so that I'll end with two parallel lines very very close. The space between the two lines is the middle line of the aileron LE. Next you have to trace another line at the top and bottom of the LE, parallel to the edge, and separated around 2-3 mm (for the Ballerina). And finally, with a sanding block, you sand the LE between the middle line and both top and bottom lines. This should leave a horizontal V shape in the LE, with a bevel on top and bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 beat yer AVC - by 20 seconds! Great minds think alike - er,....I think I'll skip the second half of that expression for both our benefits! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Elen Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Hi Craig, I made a sanding tool for doing 1/4" for the model I'm doing at the moment, im going to be making a similar one for the Ballerina when I get started. It's just a few bits of scrap ply cyanoed together with a strip of wet/dry glued on with cyano. Works a treat. Regards Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 03/01/2016 13:54:46: beat yer AVC - by 20 seconds! Great minds think alike - er,....I think I'll skip the second half of that expression for both our benefits! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.